About African Grey Parrots

The African Grey Parrot comes from a broad area of Central Africa. P.e. Erithacus being the nominate race, the Congo African Grey. P.e. Timneh more commonly called Timneh African Grey. Given the appropriate nutritional requirements in a nurturing home, African Grey's can have a lifespan of 50-70 years.
The Congo African Grey Parrot is a medium grey bird with shades of light grey on the body. The feathers on the head have brushed white edging. The eye area is of bare white skin. A solid black beak and bright red tail are the finishing touches to this magnificent parrot. Young CAG's have dark grey tips on their tail feathers. They are also known as the "Red Tailed Grey". They vary in from 12-14" from beak to tail, also can vary in weight between 400-650 grams depending on the frame of the individual bird.
Greys from Nigeria usually have dark grey wings. CAG's from the Congo region are, on average, larger in size. On occasion you might see a Grey with red feathering throughout the body - they are known as "Red Factor Greys".
The Timneh African Grey Parrot is a dark grey bird with shades of light grey on the body. The eye area is of bare white skin. They have a "bone" colored upper mandible and a dark maroon tail. The Timneh is smaller in size ranging from 9-11 inches beak to tail. Also TAG's can vary in weight from 275-400 grams.
The CAG and TAG as a baby parrots will have dark grey to black eyes up until they are roughly 6 months of age when their eye color starts to lighten. By the time they reach a year, their eyes become a pale grey color. At about 1.5 to 2 yrs their eyes will turn a pale straw color. And lastly at about 3-4 years of age, they will have a light yellow iris. This is one way to be able to determine an estimate of how old a baby is when visiting bird stores. Grey's usually reach maturity at about 4-5 years of age.
Note: When speaking in context of African Grey's; I am referring to both the Congo and the Timneh species. The only difference between the two species is their physical appearance.
The most common phrase I have heard regarding African Grey's is "the perfect mix of brains and beauty". I often hear people say African Grey's are not as "colorful" as most parrots. They apparently have not seen the true personality of an African Grey Parrot. They have a remarkable, noble beauty that takes your breath away!
African Grey's have the most extraordinary flair for speech. But do not think that they are limited to speech only! They can mimic almost any sound in your home. Although most greys do not start talking until a year in age, there are many cases where they will speak earlier. Some greys do not start speaking until 2 years, so never give up hope! They have the capacity to have a vocabulary of over 2000 words. I would like to add this "food for thought"... there is no guarantee that a Grey will speak. This should never be the sole reason for buying a grey. (Please see our Talking Article.) There is so much more to an african grey than just speech. a They are more human than some will admit. They feel our emotions and act accordingly. They do not mimic, they learn from us. Speaking in sentences, responding appropriately to questions, the physical motions to comfort us when we are sad, the list goes on and on.
African Grey's have the intellectual capacity of a 5 year old child with the emotions of a 2 year old. Because of this higher intelligence, they can be demanding pets and rightly so. They require constant attention along with a stimulating environment that includes various types of toys, a large cage, a play-stand.
Generally speaking, Greys are cautious birds. They have a tendency to sit back and watch you before giving themselves up freely. They tend to not be very outgoing towards strangers. Then are very intuitive to your feelings and it is always best to approach them with a calm demeanor. Once you win the trust of an African Grey, he/she will be your best friend for life. They are very dedicated and loyal birds.
My greys are very outgoing and playful in our home environment. Our home is their "safe place". They realize nothing will harm them here. My birds love to boisterously and acrobatically attack their toys. You have never seen a parrot play until you have first handedly seen a Grey scream bloody murder at their toys! The infamous Grey scream, it is an experience you will not forget.
In sum... although African Greys are the most popular pet parrot, they are not for everyone. They stand apart from the rest. It is not easy being a caretaker of an African Grey or any parrot for that matter. Lots of love, time, patience and effort goes into the relationship we have with our avian companions. They give us so much more than we can ever return.... Are you ready to take the African Grey challenge?

Your Attitude Is Important When Dog Training

There is nothing more critical to the success of dog training than the owner’s attitude. The mindset of the trainer is more important than the equipment purchased, the exact system used, or the breed of dog involved. Nothing can destroy the likelihood of effective training more quickly than an owner with the wrong outlook on the training process.Dogs naturally crave and enjoy human companionship. When their human companions approach them in the right way, they are particularly receptive to learning and develop a strong desire to act in a manner that will please their master.

This is why a proper attitude is exceedingly important with respect to training dogs. When the owner is pleasant, the dog will be pleasant. When the owner is excited about teaching, the dog will most likely be excited about learning. Dogs can often reflect the attitudes and dispositions of their owners, a fact that must be kept in mind while undertaking dog training.Additionally, the proper outlook on dog training can make the experience infinitely more enjoyable for the owner. A pleasant training experience will naturally produce better instruction on the part of the trainer. Again, proper attitude will pay training dividends.So, what is the right attitude to bring to dog training? Owners should strive to maintain a positive perspective at all times and should strive for a mood that makes the process fun for both the dog and the trainer. Failure to approach training with such an attitude risks disaster.

The proper attitude and perspective truly is the prerequisite to training success.The owner should be positive. A positive perspective, of course, works in conjunction with any quality training method. Effective training requires positive reinforcement, and that kind of praise and affection is best administered by someone who generally presents a positive attitude. Training will be filled with compliments, encouragement and praise. Those rewards, which are the key component to training, are more likely to be appropriately and effectively administered by a trainer with a positive disposition.Trainers should recognize that they can manage to be both firm and friendly at the same time. It is not necessary to affect an angry or severe tone during the training process. These caricatures of displeasure do not offer any more training value than utilization of a simple serious tone. A lower tone with a serious “bite” is more than enough. When praising and instructing, the owner must remember to use a very friendly and happy voice. The dog will thrive knowing his owner enjoys their interaction so much and will be very motivated to learn as a result.Most importantly the trainer must always remember that dog training is supposed to be fun. It should be fun for the trainer and just as fun for the pet. The idea is to make the training process exciting and enjoyable for the pet as is possible. By making the process a treat, the dog is especially motivated to perform.Too often training becomes nothing more than a mandatory task.

The owner does not relish the opportunity to spend time with his or her dog. The dog understands this and does not get excited at the prospect, either. In worse cases, training becomes an undesirable chore. The negative disposition and attitude of the owner is sensed clearly by the dog and mirrored. Training progress stalls, frustration sets in, and the whole process becomes further crippled.The cliché that “attitude is everything” really does describe dog training. A negative or harsh attitude will crush hopes of success. A positive perspective coupled with friendliness and a sense of fun will make training a treat.A fun disposition also makes training more enjoyable for the dog owner.

The trainer’s positive attitude creates a more positive disposition for the pet, which in turn improves the trainer’s outlook even more. By starting the training process with a solid positive attitude, the owner gets the ball rolling, so to speak. The end result can be a training experience that is enjoyed by both pet and owner, which is sure to create amazing results. By approaching training with a positive disposition, a dog owner can produce surprising and positive outcomes.

How To Teach An Old Dog New Tricks

Common knowledge and witticism tells a person that old dogs are incapable of learning new behaviors as is often bespoken in the adage, “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks”. Despite the numbers of people who would proclaim this decree to be solid truth, we are here to tell you that it nowhere near the being an accurate description of the truth. While it is a little more difficult for an older dog to be trained, it is entirely within the realm of possibility if one uses patience and remains consistent in the dog’s lessons throughout the process.

The first step in training an older dog is remembering that this dog has, most likely, already been trained once, be it properly or improperly. The older dog already has preconceived notions as to what acceptable behaviors are and what behaviors are not welcome. If you wish to change one of these behaviors you have to reprogram the dogs thinking process. For instance, a farm dog may have been trained to protect the barnyard and chase stray animals and predators away from the barn. Unfortunately, the dog now lives in your townhouse and thinks your cat is its mortal enemy. We have to reprogram the dogs thinking to make it understand that chasing the cat is not acceptable. So how would we handle this situation? To start, make certain that the cat will be safe by placing the cat in a pet carrier or some other sturdy structure that prohibits the dog from actually physically contacting the animal but still allows for both animals to see, smell and hear each other.

This provides a way for both animals to acclimate to each other in a safe, though possibly a bit stressful, situation. This small step teaches the dog and cat that both are going to have a presence in the home.After the animals have both calmed a bit give them each a small reward, such as a piece of kibble. Be sure to give the dog lots of verbal praise and affection when it is not barking or trying to get to the cat as this reinforces his good behavior. These rewards are quite important in teaching older dogs as they help to retrain their minds that this behavior is good and is rewarded, thus making them want to repeat the behavior.

This will also show the dog that you are accepting of the cat’s presence and you expect him to be accepting of the animal also. Repeat this process several times over the course of a week or so, until both animals seem fairly accustomed to the presence of the other and their aggressions seem to have subsided. At this point, you are ready to move on to the next step. This step will require an assistant to help with one of the animals. Have the assistant leash the dog and hold him firmly on a very short leash. After instructing the assistant to maintain control of the dog, open the pet carrier and bring the cat out carefully. Your dog will likely move towards the cat so be sure the assistant has him held tightly and be careful not to let the cat panic and escape your grasp. Gradually bring them closer together and let them calmly adapt to each others presence. Repeat this step several times over the next few days and by the end of the week, these two animals should be like old chums.Through this exercise, we see the basics of teaching an old dog something new. It involves first recognizing the dog’s previous training and then deciding what is applicable and what needs changed.

Then reinforcing the good parts of the dog’s behavior with plenty of positive rewards and verbal praise while restricting or redirecting the parts of the behavior you want to stop. We also see that it is necessary to change the behavior in small steps rather than a complete change all at one time. This serves to help the older dog by not confusing him totally. With small steps the animal feels that it is learning new tricks rather than a complete behavior modification. This also allows you to spot trouble before it grows to large to handle. It also is essential to exercise patience and be consistent so that you may indeed teach your old dog some brand new tricks.

How To Teach Your Dog To Eliminate On Command

Teaching your dog to defecate or urinate on command is actually hust a process of creating an association.The command I use is, "Get Busy."

But you can use any word or phrase that you please.You're probably wondering why anyone would want to teach their dog an elimination command. And probably the best answer to this question is that it enables you to establish both a time and a place for your dog to eliminate.For example, if you decide to go to bed early, and you don't want your dog to be uncomfortable for the next 7 or 8 hours, you can very easily take him outside and tell him to "do it now," because, "You won't have a chance to do it later since I'm going to bed."Having an elimination command also allows you to tell your dog WHERE he should urinate or defecate. For example, if you're taking your pup for a stoll and he indicates that he needs to eliminate...

you don't want him to merely stop and do his business in the middle of the sidewalk. What an elimination command allows you to do is to walk the dog over to some bushes, or behind a building and tell him, "Here! Here is where you can 'get busy.'"How to teach the "Get Busy" commandJust like with any other command, your goal is to associate the phrase, "Get busy," with the action of either defecating or urinating.Here's what you need to do in 5 easy steps:

1.) Take note of the usual times your dog needs to defecate or urinate.

2.) Take him to the usual spot where he likes to eliminate and walk him back and forth, repeating the phrase, "Get busy, get busy, get busy."

3.) When he begins to eliminate, continue saying, "Get busy." After five or six different occasions, your command will start to link with the behavior.

4.) A half second after he finishes, praise him.

5.) Repeat this process every time your dog needs to eliminate, and you'll soon find that he will begin to understand and at least make an attempt to evacuate the contents of his bladder on command.That's all for now, folks!AdamDogproblems.com

Training your dog at home

Training at Home – Part 1 Putting Together a 5-minute Training Session

Training Tips

Much of the training you do at home will occur during every day interactions with your dog. For example, when your dog jumps up, you should turn your back, fold your arms and reward him with attention only when all four of his feet are on the floor. Be conscious of all your interactions with your dog! Make an effort to reward behavior you like and avoid rewarding behavior you don’t like.

In addition, devoting a few minutes a day to a training session is invaluable. Many of the techniques we are teaching in class require you to develop new skills, such as timing, reading your dog and simultaneously juggling clicker, treats and leash. The ultimate goal, besides a better-behaved dog, is for you and your dog to learn to communicate effectively. Training sessions allow you and your dog to focus exclusively on each other. For this week, try to build a habit of at least one short training session per day.

Rules for training at home:
* One trainer and one dog at a time.
* Be prepared. Have your rewards, such as soft stinky treats, ready and decide what you are going to work on before you begin.
* Set your dog up to win. Progress comes from building on successes.
* If your dog is not “getting it,” change something you are doing.
* Keep it short, keep it happy and always end on a high note.
A session that ends with both of you happy is a successful session!
Putting Together a 5-minute Training Session How to get started:
* Find a place to train where you and your dog can be alone. Spectators are allowed only if they promise to sit down and be quiet. Other dogs in your home should wait their turn outside the training area.
* Get your treats ready. Positive reinforcement methods require positive reinforcements. Treats should be small, soft and something your dog is willing to work for. You can put treats in a bowl on a table, put them in your pocket or in a fanny pack.
* Pick a few behaviors to work on before you begin and decide what you will click for. Help your dog choose the behavior you want, by luring or by limiting his choices, and reward him when he gets it right. He can’t succeed if you’re not clear in your own mind on what you want. On the other hand, be ready to ask for an easier behavior if your lure fails or if he never offers the behavior you have in mind. For your next training session, pick different behaviors to work on. This keeps it interesting for both you and your dog. Avoid making training sessions into repetitive exercise drills.
* Set your dog up to win. Click and treat frequently to keep your dog in the game; the learning comes when he is getting it right. If you do not get an opportunity to click and treat within 30 seconds or a minute, ask for an easier behavior. Then assess what is wrong (see below) and try to fix it. Repeated failures, such as when your dog is not responding to your first cue, may establish a pattern in the dog’s mind of behavior you don’t want.
* Keep it short, keep it happy and always end on a high note. A good training session has a beginning, a middle and an end. Begin with a few easy behaviors your dog already knows, so you can give a few clicks and treats right away. Then spend a few minutes on learning a new behavior or improving an old one. End the session on a success – go back to a known behavior if you need to – then give a big reward and let your dog know the session is over. Following a training session with play, a meal or a walk is a nice plus.

The whole session may last less than 5 minutes - don’t keep going so long that your dog loses interest in the game. A tiny amount of progress in any individual session is all you need. Add up all the tiny steps and you will soon see very big changes.
If you are getting frustrated, try again later. Continuing will do more harm than good. What is most important is that both you and your dog enjoy the process, so you are motivated to train again the next day.
* Having problems? Does your dog seem anxious, confused or disinterested?
If anxious, don’t lean over your dog, use a softer tone of voice and don’t gesture or click right in his face.

If confused, make sure you click precisely when you see the behavior you want and that you click for the same behavior each time.
If disinterested, try better treats or a place with fewer distractions. Another possibility is that you need to improve your timing. Once your dog understands this is a game worth winning, he will be interested.
Training at Home – Part 2 Challenging Your Dog to Improve Performance and Reliability
Training Tips By this time, your dog can probably perform a few behaviors, such as “sit,” “touch” and “watch me,” some of the time. However, you’ve probably found that with any small change in the environment your dog may “forget” what he’s just learned. Teaching your dog the new behavior and its cue are only the first step. Your dog hasn’t truly mastered these new skills until he is able to perform reliably, which is at least 80 percent of the time, in the presence of distractions.
Training Procedure Mastering any new behavior usually involves these five steps:
1- Get the behavior, usually with a lure. 2 - Name the behavior, using a verbal cue or command. 3 - Change the lure to a hand signal, using a visual cue or command. 4- Make it a little harder, changing distance, duration, speed and precision, one aspect at a time and in small increments. 5 - Add distractions. Rules for Making It Harder * Make one aspect of behavior harder at a time and in small enough increments so that the dog will succeed frequently. * Temporarily make other aspects of the behavior easier.* Once she has it, make the other aspects harder again.
Example:
“Stay” – your dog will hold a stay for sixty seconds while you stand right next to him, but you want to increase the distance you can move away from him while he stays:
* Distance is the aspect of the behavior you are making harder and you need to increase the distance in small increments, so give your command and move one step away from the dog.
* Time is an aspect of the behavior you can make temporarily easier by decreasing the length of the stay to five seconds. Then, reward your dog for at least three or four five-second/one-step away stays.

* Now, gradually increase the time while you remain just one step away from the dog. Do this until he can stay for sixty seconds with you at a distance of one step. Note that it may take four or five sessions to work back up to a sixty-second stay at the one-step distance.
Adding Distractions * Temporarily make the behavior easier when introducing a new distraction.* Initially add small distractions that the dog is capable of ignoring.* Gradually increase the level of distraction.* Once he can easily resist the distraction, make the behavior harder again.
Challenging Your Dog to Improve Performance and Reliability Homework ExerciseLet’s say your dog will sit, but he stands and looks at you for several seconds before he sits and you are giving several cues. You’d like him to sit promptly on the first command.
First, perform the behavior a few times at the dog’s current level of performance and click and treat each successful sit, even if it’s very slow. Perform the behavior, “sit,” a few more times, but this time only give one cue and only click and treat your dog if he sits in 5 seconds or less. At this point, it doesn’t matter if he sits lopsided or not directly in front of you. Your only concern is time. If he sits but it takes him too long, speak to him with a happy voice, “that was a nice sit, but it doesn’t get a cookie.” Then, get him up and try again.

Soon you should see his average response time improving. Once he sits within five seconds, at least 80 percent of the time, decrease the time you give him to respond. Now reward him only when he sits in four seconds or less. Continue decreasing the time until you are getting an immediate response. Now put back any other requirements you have, such as sit directly in front of me, and only reward sits that are fast and straight.
Now you want to add distractions. For example, you have been training in the living room and your dog does great. Now you go to the backyard and children are playing across the street. Suddenly, your dog acts like he has never heard the word “sit.” If your dog is looking across the street and not at you, forget “sit” at the moment and try “watch me” a few times. When you have your dog’s attention, ask for a sit. Click and treat every sit, even if it’s slow and crooked.

If your dog is very distracted, you may need to go back to luring him into a sit, making the behavior easier. Keep the lesson short. You may want to give a big reward, the jackpot, when he gives you a good sit, then end the session. Remember, you always want to quit on a high note. The next time you train with children across the street, he will remember that paying attention to you is rewarding.
Improved performance and reliability will probably take many short sessions. That’s OK. A little progress each time is what keeps you coming back for your next session.
Examples of Distractions: * Change your body position. Stand at the dog’s side, sit down or stand three feet away from the dog. * Have another person in the room, ignoring the dog but doing something, such as talking or jumping up and down. * Go to different locations, such as the park, walking on the sidewalk or in pedestrian malls. * Go to an obedience class where you’ll find many distractions!* When your dog is doing a stay, tug GENTLY on the leash while repeating, “stay,” or using your hand signal for stay. You can also wave your arms, make odd noises or walk around your dog. Your dog learns to ignore everything except your release word, such as “free,” “okay” or “all done.”