Pets World

They have always been there when humans have fought wars, playing their role, whether as workers or as mascots. Many of them never came home, even when they survived the conflict.

Sunday, October 30, 2005

Older Guinea Pigs - Considerations

Introduction
Older pigs can sometimes get over-looked in favour of young guineas, either in their own household, or when a potential owner is choosing a new pet.
There are pros and cons in caring for, or choosing, an older guinea (for the purposes of this article I am including any guinea that is already adult, say over 1 year) but I hope that in reading this article, anyone would think hard about choosing an older pet and giving them the chance of a long and happy life.
This article concentrates on the pig's character and compatibility, as health care will be covered in other articles
Pros and Cons
If you acquire a pet from a rescue, or from someone who unfortunately due to circumstances beyond their control, has to give up their beloved pets, they can be old or young: many litters are born in this situation.
Once you have squealed your way round the skittish youngsters, take a moment to consider the older pigs that are available.
With a youngster you have no idea of the personality they will develop - this will depend on a complex mixture of nature and nurture.
The nature part is set and you can't influence it.
Their nurture will depend partly on how well their mother has taught them, partly on their experiences so far, and partly on how you treat them from now on, if you were to chose them.
2 out of 3 of those factors are out of your control, so as much as you think that you are choosing a pig with certain attributes (eg you may think you are choosing the quiet one of the bunch to suit your quiet household), they are an unknown quantity, and may only be quiet in that group - they may turn out to be a boss pig in another environment.
And if they didn’t develop the type of personality you sought, would you be disappointed?
Then consider the older pigs: their nature is known.
Their nurture is usually known: it may have been less than ideal, but their adult character will already show how they have coped with it. If their conditions improve from now on, with regular handling, a shy pig can be brought out of it shell, a nervous pig can be taught to trust, a bossy pig can be tamed down, but you will already have an idea of the basic characteristics from the information the rescue staff, or the previous owners who are surrendering their pet, can give you.
Their full health history may be a mystery, depending on their circumstances, but their recent history will tell you of any chronic conditions, acute problems or items that need monitoring.

Friday, October 28, 2005

Bow Wow Bliss: Five Ways To Meditate With Your Dog

By: James Jacobson

Meditation is as simple as a walk in the dog park. Imagine sitting down with your dog. As you both begin to relax, your breaths become longer, less hurried. Your thoughts slow down until it seems like you are not thinking at all. If you and your dog already share moments like these, then you’ve glimpsed the bliss of meditation. Meditation is great for dogs. Not only does it improve a dog’s health and well-being, but excitable dogs become calmer, aggressive dogs become more loving, and dogs that once whined and howled for attention become quieter and more content. Meditation is great for you, too. It relieves stress and sharpens your mental focus. Here are five ways to get started on a non-dogmatic meditation practice. Schedule a regular time. First thing in the morning is a great time, or right after you get home from work but before you get into your evening activities. The more consistent you are, the more you and your dog will be able to ease into meditation. Develop a ritual. Ritual helps to prepare you and dog for meditation. Light a candle, burn incense, put on quiet music, or sit in the same place and position each day. Let go of expectation. If you have a pre-conceived idea of what your meditation experience will be, you’ll just get frustrated. Your experience will not be the same as someone else’s and chances are, will be different for you from day to day. Enjoy your meditation, however it turns out. Connect with your dog. When you sit down to meditate, your dog should be either lying next to you or on your lap. Put one or both hands on your dog. This connection is soothing to him. Your dog may get up. That’s okay. Just stay quiet, and when your dog returns, put your hand or hands back on him. Conclude your meditation the same way each time. This signals your body and mind, as well as your dog, that it’s time to move on to the next part of your day. The transition should be gentle rather than jarring. Pet your dog slowly, lengthening the stroke from short to long; whisper or say aloud an affirmation, quote, or prayer; or roll your head from side to side. Meditating with your dog is as individual as your relationship with your dog. Be patient. Try different things. There are few rules about meditation. The perfect meditation is whatever brings you and your pooch bow wow bliss.

Obedience Training Your Dog – The Importance Of Rewards

Rewards just may be the single most important motivator in dog training. Obedience training through the use of rewards and other positive reinforcements has long been recognized as the most effective method of reaching most dogs and getting the best possible results. Making obedience training fun, and even making it a bit of a game, can be very important to keeping both the dog and the handler motivated and willing to learn. Incorporating a period of playtime at the beginning and end of every training session will make sure that every session begins and ends on a good note.

The most basic of all obedience commands is heeling, or walking with the handler on a loose lead. This is usually the first obedience behavior that is taught, and it is an easy one to teach through reward training.

Begin by fitting the dog with a quality, properly fitted training lead and training collar. If you are unsure of how to fit the training collar, be sure to ask a dog trainer, or the manager at the store where the equipment is purchased. Start walking with the dog, always being cognizant of the dog’s position relative to your own. If the dog begins to forge ahead, gently pull on the leash.

This will engage the training collar and give the dog a gentle reminder to slow down. It may be necessary to apply greater pressure at first until the dog learns to accept the correction. If the dog begins to fall behind, slow down and gently urge the dog forward. The use of a lure, or a favorite toy, can be very useful when teaching the dog to walk at your side. By keeping the lure at the desired position for the dog, he or she should quickly learn the desired location. Always be sure to provide plenty of praise, treats, toys and other rewards when the dog does what is expected of him. Dogs learn best by positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement means that when the animal does what the handler wants, it receives a reward, which can be anything from a pat on the head to a treat to a favorite toy. At the beginning of training, even the slightest attempts to please the owner should be rewarded.

Training by using reprimands and punishment is not nearly as effective as training by using rewards. Dogs can become discouraged and confused by excessive amounts of punishment and reprimands. Reprimands may be required from time to time, to correct potentially dangerous behaviors like chasing or biting, for instance, but reprimands should be short and directly attributed to the problem behavior at hand. After the immediate danger has passed, the training should continue with reward based training and positive reinforcement. For instance, if you come home and your dog is chewing the furniture or other inappropriate item, immediately give the dog a sharp “No” or “Off” and take the item away.

Then immediately give the dog one of his toys or other items that he is allowed to chew on, and praise the dog enthusiastically when he takes the toy and begins to chew it. This will teach the dog to associate chewing some items, like his toys, with praise, and chewing inappropriate items with reprimand. It is very important for the dog to make these associations, since it is very hard to change negative associations once they have formed. It is always much easier to train proper obedience behaviors the first time than it is to go back and retrain a problem dog later on. That does not of course mean that retraining is impossible, it simply means that it is more difficult.

Teaching a puppy, or an older dog, to associate the behaviors you value, such as coming when called, sitting on command, walking at your side, chewing only on toys, etc. with happy, fun times is the basis of all successful dog training.

Tuesday, October 25, 2005

Pets. The Wild Kind.

Just because we moved out to the country a couple years back does NOT mean we want to run a farm. Tending to animals is just not how we want to spend our time. We don't want cows or sheep or chickens. We don't want hogs or ducks. We don't even want a dog or a cat to train.OK, so my wife says that she wants a cat, but that's only because she knows I won't have anything to do with it. I suspect that if I ever said, "OK, you win. Let's get a cat", she would run screaming down the stairs pulling at her hair and just keep on running...causing damage to the stairway carpet, not to mention the window at the bottom of the staircase.We don't want a parrot or a rabbit or a hamster or even a mouse.But when you live in the country, you have pets, whether you like it or not.The first summer, we were welcomed by Muffet the skunk. Although she never responded to that name, we let her keep it. She just loved our compost heap. In fact, she had a frequent-eater pass at the all-you-can-eat compost buffet.The second summer we were skunk-free, but this summer we were blessed with a new traveling perfume salesman. We did not name him, but we have determined that he is on a diet. He stays away from the all-you-can-eat compost buffet.He is also much less intelligent than Muffet. When we see him, we jump and shout and wave our hands to get his attention,. But we usually have to get his attention three or four times before something in his microbe-sized brain clicks in and says, "Wait a minute. That's not the hot dog vendor beckoning me to clean up his leftovers. Maybe I should turn around."But he is smart enough provide a two-tier burglar deterent. First, he drives them away with his odor. "Peee-ew. Let's go rob the Jensons down the road." Second he digs thousands of tiny pits all over the lawn to trip any burglar foolish enough to try to escape.And to answer your question, no I did not personally verify the gender of these skunks. But you are free to check if you doubt my word.This summer, we discovered an exotic spider. Painted on its inch-long black back are two bright yellow eyes. Spooky. We even watched it wrap its prey - a small, light brown flying thingy. With amazing speed, the spider scurried from the center of her web toward the helpless victim at least a foot away. Then in a matter of two seconds flat, the spider spun the fly around three or four times, weaving it into a web cocoon like rolling a corpse in a carpet behind Luigi's Fine Finer and Smokes. No gangster could have operated with one tenth the speed.Just a few hours ago, I was proud to show off a bees nest over a foot tall hanging from a low branch in our One Acre Woods."Wow. It's just like in Winnie the Pooh!" That was Little Lady, now 3 years and 3 months old."Destroy it. There must be thousands of bees in there!" That was my wife.The fact is that I have had to destroy a four bees nests in the past three weeks, all between the stones in our foundation. I am not keen to drive the bees away from their forest nest and toward the house. In fact, I think I'll post an arrow sign near the house pointing to the forest: "Cheap rent. Spacious hive. Vibrant community."

So far, we've avoided the pets inside the house - we won't discuss the "storm trooper ants incident" or the midnight mouse- trap peanut-butter visits - and we have kept the hogs and sheep at bay (although the chickens sheepishly crawl through the fence and the stray cats like to run hog wild around our land).No pets, perhaps. But you still have to share your space with skunks and spiders and bees when you live in the country.

By: David Leonhardt

Monday, October 24, 2005

Preparing Your Dog for Your New Baby

Having a baby comes presents a big life change to any parent. But, as a pet owner, many expectant parents face an added challenge. How to prepare your dog for your newest family member. Your dog is used to being your only "baby", and now he will have to share you with this new little person that will be entering "his" home. It is best to start preparing your dog when you first find out you are expecting, rather than waiting until the day you bring home your new baby. He has many new things he will need to become acclimated with, such as new smells and objects entering his home. And of course the baby! Below are some suggestions and tips you can use to make the transition easier for both you and your dog.

>> Tip Number One

Invite over a friend that already has an infant to accustom your dog to babies. Be sure to supervise your dog and not leave him unattended, even if your dog seems unfazed by the baby's presence. Safety is the most important thing.

>> Tip Number Two

If you have a nursery for the baby, put a gate in the doorway as soon as possible, as this will teach your dog early on that he is not allowed in that room. A gate is a good choice as dogs are curious creatures by nature. Allowing him to see what is going on in the room will also help in not making him feel isolated or left out once your baby arrives.

>> Tip Number Three

Begin sprinkling some baby powder on the carpet or rubbing baby oil on yourself. This will help him to become accustomed to the new smells now, making the transition much easier when you finally bring your new baby home.

>> Tip Number Four

Before your baby enters your home, be sure to take your dog to the Veterinarian to be sure that his shots are updated and that he is healthy. Also be sure to have his nails clipped. You don't want him to jump up and scratch you or your baby.

>> Tip Number Five

While you and your baby are still in the hospital, have your husband or a family member bring home a piece of clothing that belongs to your new baby and give it to your dog. This will help him become accustomed to your baby's smell and he will likely be more relaxed when your baby enters the home.

>> Tip Number Six

When you are coming home for the first time, it is best that you greet your pet without your baby, while someone else holds the baby away from the area. You need to remember that he will be excited to see you and may jump up. Should this happen, you don't want to reprimand your dog and have him coincide your reprimanding him with your new baby. This could cause him to resent the baby. After he calms down, have your husband bring in the baby and hold him, allow your dog to sniff the baby. Have a treat in hand for your dog and be sure to praise him for his good behavior!

by indulgeyourpet.com

Sunday, October 23, 2005

Great Danes - Their Origin And Temperament

The origin of Great Danes, like that of many other varieties of dogs, is so obscure that all researches have only resulted in speculative theories, but the undoubted antiquity of this dog is proved by the fact that representatives of a breed sufficiently similar to be considered his ancestors are found on some of the oldest Egyptian monuments.A few years ago a controversy arose on the breed's proper designation, when the Germans claimed for it the title "Deutsche Dogge." Germany had several varieties of big dogs, such as the Hatzrude, Saufanger, Ulmer Dogge, and Rottweiler Metzgerhund; but contemporaneously with these there existed, as in other countries in Europe, another very big breed, but much nobler and more thoroughbred, known as Great Danes.When after the war of 1870 national feeling was pulsating very strongly in the veins of reunited Germany, the German cynologists were on the lookout for a national dog, and for that purpose the Great Dane was re-christened "Deutsche Dogge," and elected as the champion of German Dogdom. For a long time all these breeds had, no doubt, been indiscriminately crossed.The Great Dane was introduced into this country spasmodically some thirty-five years ago, when he was commonly referred to as the Boarhound, or the German Mastiff, and for a time the breed had to undergo a probationary period in the "Foreign Class" at dog shows, but it soon gained in public favour, and in the early 'eighties a Great Dane Club was formed, and the breed has since become one of the most popular of the larger dogs.The Kennel Club has classed Great Danes amongst the Non-Sporting dogs, probably because with us he cannot find a quarry worthy of his mettle; but, for all that, he has the instincts and qualifications of a sporting dog, and he has proved himself particularly valuable for hunting big game in hot climates, which he stands very well.Respecting the temperament of the Great Dane and his suitability as a companion writers have gone to extremes in praise and condemnation. In his favour it must be said that in natural intelligence he is surpassed by very few other dogs. He has a most imposing figure, and does not, like some other big breeds, slobber from his mouth, which is a particularly unpleasant peculiarity when a dog is kept in the house. On the other hand, it must be admitted that with almost the strength of a tiger he combines the excitability of a terrier, and no doubt a badly trained Great Dane is a very dangerous animal.It is not sufficient to teach him in the haphazard way which might be successful in getting a small dog under control, but even as a companion he ought to be trained systematically, and, considering his marked intelligence, this is not difficult of accomplishment.

Super Cat Urine Prevention Tips

Many times cat owners are at a loss as to why their cat doesn't use their litter box. Here are some great tips that can help you solve the problem.The litter box is the first thing you should check. It should be in a quiet, private area of the house. Many people put them in their basements and leave the door open a little as this not only creates a private environment but also keeps odors to a minimum in the rest of the house.Some use a closet but if you do this be sure and keep the box clean to reduce odors in such a confined space and don’t forget to leave the door open!Another placement possibility is under a table. Many people find a place without carpeting is best from a maintenance point of view as tile or cement is a lot easier to clean.Ask yourself if you changed the litter box in any way:* Has the box been moved to a high traffic area recently?* Does the box need cleaning?* Is a new litter being used or does it have too heavy a scent (clumping and unscented is best).* Has the depth of the litter in the box changed? Some cats like their litter deep, others shallow.* Your cat has outgrown the box and needs a larger one.* The box is too hard to enter and exit. This can be an issue for older cats.Do not put food and water near the litter box. Cats like these two areas kept separate (don’t you?).If your cat has picked out a particular room to soil try closing the door to that room if you can or cover the target area with furniture.Put a bowl of food over the target area as cats like to keep their eating area away from their “bathroom”.Take your cat to the Vet on a regular basis.If you have more than one cat get each one of them their own litter box.Have you recently moved? A cat might smell an area where the previous owner’s cat urinated.Let the cat alone while it goes so it can have some privacy.If it is a new cat in your home it could take from three to eight weeks to get adjusted to the new environment. Be patient!Was there a recent addition or loss to the family? A new baby, spouse? This is usually temporary until the cat adjusts to the change in their environment.A change in your schedule can throw off your cat's schedule as well and cause problems. Try and phase in major lifestyle changes gradually.NEVER EVER punish the cat by kicking, hitting, chasing, screaming or rubbing their nose in their urine (remember the smell doesn’t bother them). Cats cannot make the cause and effect connection like we can so punishment after the fact is useless and will only make matters worse.Cats are naturally very clean animals and they know where they are going. It is important to remember this and try and help your cat overcome any stress or anxiety they might be having in a caring and loving manner.

Saturday, October 22, 2005

Hartz Mountain vets caring for Katrina's tail-wagging victims

Hurricane Katrina's four-legged victims are being treated this week by a Secaucus-based company.
The Hartz Mountain Corporation, a pet products company, is examining 100 dogs that were left behind in Baton Rouge, La., after Katrina hit. The dogs were gathered by the American Kennel Club and brought to Madison in Morris County on Oct. 2.
"The AKC airlifted them and brought them to St. Hubert's facility in Madison," said Dr. Jill Richardson, director of consumer relations at Hartz.

More than 20 veterinarians - 10 of whom are on staff at Hartz - and volunteers went to St. Hubert's Animal Welfare Center to examine the dogs.
"We had 20 dogs in a room and they were very quiet on the first day," said Richardson.
After a few days of rest, they gained back their strength and are "not so quiet anymore," she said.
The dogs were given X-rays and treated for fleas and heartworms and are currently under quarantine until this weekend.
"They're all really good dogs," said Richardson. "These pets are all smiling, they're very happy."
Since the owners of the dogs have either relinquished ownership or have not yet reclaimed their dogs, Hartz will find them new homes in at an upcoming adoption event in Madison. Pictures of the dogs will be posted on the Web site petfinder.com for owners who want to reclaim their dogs.
Hartz will donate a gift basket filled with pet supplies for every adopted dog, said Richardson. A date has not yet been set for the adoptions.
In addition to the supplies Hartz sent to treat the quarantined dogs, the company donated $50,000 to the American Red Cross for hurricane relief.

13 ways to save your furniture from cat scratching by Petar Petrov

Cats are great pets. They love to play, they love to cuddle when you are watching TV or sleeping, and they purr for no reason other than being near you. But they also love to scratch. Unfortunately, the things they love to scratch are often the legs of your antique table, your upholstered sofa, or your expensive carpet.
Although many humans do not appreciate when their cats scratch, you have to know that kittens and cats do not scratch to make us angry, they just need to scratch. Scratching is a natural hardwired behavior in cats, just like breathing and purring, and every cat owner must know WHY CATS SCRATCH.
In the wild, cats scratch around their immediate environment to signal their presence to other cats and to claim the area in question. The marking takes two forms: visual and olfactory. The visual is in the form of clawing marks and is so obvious that even we humans can recognise it. The olfactory mark is subtler, involving the release of pheromones. These are substances secreted from the body to be picked up by the number of the same species, causing them to alter their behavior.
Scratching has additional function too. It removes the nail sheaths, outer layer of dead cells from the claw. You might thing your cat scratches to sharpen her claws, but it more likely it provides her with a form of physical therapy for the muscles and tendons of her paws.
There are two groups of target for every cat. The first one is when your cat targets one or two areas in the home, usually near important territorial areas such as: sleeping area, litter tray, hunting or play areas. The second one is your cat undertake more widespread and destructive scratching in highly visible sites such as: doorways, windows, prominent furnishings - like sofas.


WHAT YOU CAN DO IF YOUR CAT SCRATCHING YOUR FURNITURE?


1. The easiest but the most painful method for cat is declawing. Faced with cat scratching problems, many people consider declawing surgery. But many veterinarians believe declawing is a painful and unnecessary surgery and refuse to do it for humane reasons. Instead, they advocate training your cat to use a scratching post.
2. Make sure there are multiple scratching opportunities. Cats often like to scratch after eating and sleeping, so be sure there is something to scratch near where they eat and sleep. A scratching post is an excellent investment for your cat. It will allow her to scratch, stretch and exercise all at once. If you want to provide your cat not only with scratching surface, but and places where she can climb, perch and sleep you should consider cat tree.
3. Cover the furniture with something your cat does not like: double sided tape, some plastic or aluminium foil. Some cats dislike the feeling and sound of foil, and most cats hate things that stick to their fur. Double-sided sticky tape used in carpet installation works well, but be sure the tape won’t harm your cat or furniture.
4. Keep your cat mentally stimulated and offers her plenty of opportunity for exercise, and she will has less opportunity to be destructive in your home. If your cat is frustrated and bored, she may scratch your furniture or tear your drapes. Give her enough play time. Cats are motivated by smell, sound, texture and movement. The toys you use should aim to cover all these aspects. Discover your cat’s preferences by presenting a variety different sized toy made from different materials and watch her reaction to gauge her preferences.
5. Cutting the nails regularly may help keep a cat from scratching the furniture, or at least reduce the damage done by its scratching. Get your kitten used to having its nails clipped while it is young, praise her while you clip the nail and reward her with a treat.
6. Booby trap the furniture with a soda can with some pennies in it, so that if cat scratches, it makes a noise.
7. Use a doorknob alarm on your curtains. When pinned to the drapes, the alarm will sound every time your cat tries to use curtains as a ladder.
8. Consider a window perch for your feline friend. It will give your cat hours of entertainment - especially if you place a bird or squirrel feeder in the garden outside the window. Be sure the window is closed so your pet won’t fall out.
9. When you catch your cat scratching furniture, try squirting her with a water pistol or squirt bottle and use a firm ‘no’. Of course, this won’t stop your cat when you are not around.
10. If your cat is gaining access to a high bookcase by leaping from a nearby chair, move the chair. Without her launchpad, your cat will no longer be able to reach her perch.
11. You can also try taping inflated balloons to the problem areas. When your cat pops one with her claws, she will avoid scratching there again. However, try this only when you are at home, so you can pick up the balloon pieces before your cat tries to eat them.
12. There are training devices that keep cats off forbidden areas by making annoying sounds. They are available at pet supply stores, catalogs and websites.
13. If your cat still scratches in appropriate places, use some sprays like bitter apple or actual orange peels, which are good deterrents.
All forms of physical punishment should be avoided since they can cause fear or aggression toward the owner, and at best, the cat will only learn to stop the scratching while the owner is around.
It does not matter which method you will choose to prevent your furniture destroying, every cat owner mush know that it is impractical and unfair to expect cats to stop scratching entirely.

How to select a bird cage? by Andrew Thibaudeau

A bird cage purchase is the most important investments in a avian owner / lovers life. Bird cages rule of thumb is to get the largest cage you can possible afford and no less than the minimum size. Designer Cages, LLC offers it's customers a great bird cage selection chart. The key to a long lasting cage is due primarily to daily cleaning and a good weekly deep cleaning.
Remember to always invest in the highest quality bird supply cages. A major factor in protecting your pets' health is the quality of the products you buy for them. Many of the bird cages for sale today aren't of the highest quality, and could jeopardize your pets health. Many companies mass produce bird supplies such as cage, but overlook the importance of high quality materials. Bird cages and stands made of low quality materials are prone to break and/or deform. When your bird supplies are weak and prone to break, the risk of your pet getting hurt or eating something it shouldn't increases dramatically, and this could cause serious harm to your beloved pet, sometimes even resulting in death.
Bird cages play a major roll in the life of your bird. Just as important as your home is to you, the bird's home is important to it. A bird will grow up and live its whole life in its bird cage. Your bird will mate and mature with its partner in the bird house. The bird will also breed and raise its young in the bird cage. Bird cages come in all types of shapes, designs, and sizes. It is important to buy a bird house that will offer your pet the maximum comfort and provide the most functionality. Small bird cages are perfect for birds such as finches, love birds, and other such small birds. Many birds prefer a small living quarters. Small decorative bird cages are much easier to take care of and maintain. Their small size allows you to put the bird house virtually anywhere. However, depending on the size of your pet bird you might be forced to buy a big bird cage.

How to Train Kittens to Use the Cat Litter Box

There are several things you need to do to help the mama cat train her kitties to develop good cat litter box habits. While the kids may try to follow mom's example, here's how you can help cement that success.
First, since kittens are so physically small and they're still developing coordination and agility, it's critical that you, the human mom, make sure they can easily get in and out of any cat litter box. The easiest way to do this is buy disposable aluminum roaster pans from your grocery store. Kittens grow as fast as weeds in the summertime, so this is a temporary, but completely justifiable purchase.
If your regular litter boxes are too tall for the babies to climb in and out, they'll become discouraged and they'll select the easiest spot (for them, at least) to eliminate waste. Once they get this idea in their little heads, it could be hard to get out. So, don't give them the excuse!
The type of litter you use for kittens can be dangerous. Since kittens are so darn curious, they test everything with their mouths. If they eat clumping litter, this could kill them. Use a non-clumping litter for several weeks. It won't be any easier to watch them taste test the non-clumping litter, but neither will it be dangerous.
Depending upon the size of the litter, you'll need at least two, and possibly several roasting pans. Since the babies all pretty much eat at the same time, they'll feel the call of nature in a group as well. You can ensure successful cat litter box habits by making certain there are enough boxes to accomodate a group elimination activity.
Young kitties don't have great control of their bladder and bowel functions. Place all cat litter boxes in close proximity to their living quarters. Keep the pans away from their food and water, but don't place them out of the same room, if possible. The closer the pans are, the better the chances are the babies will make it to the box in time to let loose.
Also, make certain that mom is teaching the babies by the time they are five weeks old. If mom seems to be falling down on the job, you must step in during week five of their lives and start the training process. Shortly after the little ones have fed, take them to the litter pan, and place them in it. You may need to gently take a front paw, and scratch for them. Fortunately, almost all cats "get it" very quickly. Your coaching period should be relatively short.
By working with mama cat, the two of you make sure the babies develop good cat litter box habits for life.

Top 5 Dog Health Problems

Dog Owner’s commonly ask me the same questions repeatedly. This article aims to help dog owners prevent and find information about the most common dog health problems. Understanding the basics of these problems will go a long ways to helping your canine friend live a long healthy life.
1. By far the most common question I get asked from dog owners is a desperate call about their dog’s vomiting. Vomiting can have many causes, but the most common cause is eating garbage, or wolfing down food. In most cases the easiest cure is to withhold food from your dog for 24 hours, but continue to give water. Then after 24 hours, start by giving small meals again. This rest period will allow the stomach to heal. If vomiting continues after this you should see your veterinarian.
2. The next most common question I get asked are reproduction questions. These questions range from breeding their dog, questions about whelping, and about raising puppies. While it is beyond this article to cover everything, here are some basics to keep in mind. Dogs come into heat every 6-7 months which is the time to breed them. The gestation length ranges from 59-63 days. Breeds that can have trouble with whelping are the pug, bulldog, Chihuahuas, Boston terriers, and the Pekingese. Whelping, the act of giving birth, can take from 2 to 24 hours. With several hours in-between the time puppies are passed.
3. Third, are questions about skin problems. These questions range from masses and bumps, to scratches and rashes. Whenever you find a mass on your dog it is important that you show it to your veterinarian. Most masses are benign lipomas, which are fatty tumors. Another common tumor of female dogs are tumors of the mammary gland. You can greatly decrease the risk of your female dog getting a mammary gland tumor by spaying your dog. One of the most common skin tumors owners are likely to see are Mast cell tumors. Mast cell tumors can appear anywhere on the body, and can range from benign to very aggressive.
4. Fourth are questions about the musculoskeletal system. Two possible causes of limping in dogs are arthritis and torn anterior cruciate ligaments. Arthritis is common in older dogs. To treat arthritis try some joint supplements like chondroitin. For dogs with torn anterior cruciate ligaments, surgery is needed. The anterior cruciate ligament is a ligament in the knees of dogs. Signs of this injury is when the dog is running and all of a sudden the dog whimpers in pain and starts to limp on its rear leg.
5. The fifth most common question is about allergies. Many dogs suffer from allergies. The most common clinical signs are the dog chewing its paws, reddened skin, and scratching. For a definitive diagnosis allergy testing can be done by your veterinarian. Allergies are often treated by antihistamines and in severe cases steroids.
With a little knowledge pet owners can be more proactive in the health care of their pets. With greater knowledge you can help your veterinarian come up with the best treatment plans for your pet, and are able to give a more complete history on your pet which can lead to a quicker and more accurate diagnosis.

How to Choose Goldfish

How you choose your goldfish, depends largely on two things: the type of fish you really like to see, and the kind of container you intend to keep them in.
People in warmer climates, like to populate their outdoor ponds and pools with goldfish, which is a wonderful addition to the outdoor décor of your lawns and gardens. These may be natural ponds, or manmade pools that are actually vinyl liners sunk into the ground, and provided with air and water circulation through a pump system. This circulation, natural or otherwise, is important to keeping the water well oxygenated for the fish.
But surprisingly, if your pond is deep enough, it's possible to over-winter your goldfish outside. If you are populating an outdoor pond, it's best to start with fish that were raised that way themselves, as there is less likelihood of losing some that are unable to adapt. Store-bought fish raised in tanks can adapt, but you can expect to lose a certain percentage of them, depending on the harshness of the weather.
If you're just starting out, you might try just the common goldfish at first, since these will be less expensive to replace, should you have a hard winter. If your fish are not surviving, you may need to look at better air and water circulation, or deepening the pond. But once you have a thriving colony, you can begin adding some of the hardier varieties of fancy goldfish.

How To Get Rid Of Fleas

If you own a pet you will have fleas in the house from time to time. In some cases you may become infested with fleas. We have had as many as four cats at our house and we have been infested with fleas a few times. We only have two cats now so it is not as bad, but we still have to use the process I am about to tell you about.
You really don't have any control if your pet goes out of your yard, but you will need to spray your own yard about two times during the summer months with a good flea insecticide. If you kill all the fleas in your house with out killing the little pest in the yard you will continue to have a problem inside.
One of the main reasons a house will become infested with fleas is, after you vaccum your house and put the vaccum away, every flea that was in the vaccum bag will crawl right back out of the vaccum cleaner and into the house and start multiplying.
The way to stop this is to take the bag out, spray some flea insecticide in the bag and tape the hole of the bag up. Then spray the insecticide around the house. If you will repeat this process every two or three days for two weeks you will not be infested with fleas any more.
You can resume your normal schedule of vaccuming after you clear up the infestation, but you will still need to tape the vaccum bag up just in case you pet brings a couple of fleas in from outside.

What you Need to Know about Cat Food

Cat Food Info #1 Cats Need Protein in their Cat Food
The cat food you feed to your cat should always be rich in protein. This generally should come from meat, poultry or fish. Many cat food brands advertise chicken, beef, and tuna flavored cat food because they know that cats need protein and cat owners are looking for quality cat food. However, you need to make sure the cat food you buy has a sufficient amount of cat food regardless of what flavor it is.
Cat Food Info #2 Cat Food with Taurine
Also check the cat food you typically buy for an amino acid called taurine. This particular amino acid is very important in the overall health of your cat, and your cat will eat as much food as it has to in order to supplement this particular amino acid. So, if you are buying cheap cat food that does not have the proper nutrients your cat will eat a lot. If you buy a nutrient rich cat food then your cat will eat little and save you more money while still getting proper nutrition.
Cat Food Info #3 Canned Cat Food or Dry Cat Food?
Many people do not know whether they should buy canned or dry cat food, or whether it even matters. Because of this, many people simply buy the cat food that is most affordable or convenient for them. This is actually a mistake. Cats should be fed a mixture of cat food. The dry cat food should be given for free feeding, especially if you are away on vacation or out for the day. Canned cat food should be supplemented at other times as well because it has water in the food and significantly more protein than the carbohydrate rich dry cat food. Not to mention the same food over and over might bore your cat and cause him to stop eating that cat food altogether.
Cat Food Info #4 Avoid Cat Food Fillers
Cats need to eat a cat food that is rich in protein, so make sure the amount of fillers is kept to a minimum. Carbohydrates are not essential for a cat’s existence, so don’t buy cat food that is full of them. Instead, read labels and buy cat food that is not filled with fillers and other byproducts.

Choosing Healthy Foods For Your Dog

Today’s pet food market is larger and more diverse than ever before. While this offers a large number of choices in various types of pet food, it also presents a dilemma in choosing the healthiest food for your dog. Are generic or store brands suitable for a dog? What about familiar name brands like Purina and Alpo? Are the pricier brands that advertise specially formulated ingredients (Science Diet, Eukanuba) really living up to their claims and worth the extra money? All of these are valid questions that loving dog owners deserve to have answered.
Dog Food Considerations
There are several factors to consider when choosing the right food for your dog. Different dogs have different nutritional needs at different stages in their lives. Some things to consider when selecting the food you’ll give your dog follow.
• The Dog’s Age
Puppies have different nutritional requirements than adult dogs just as human children have different needs than adult people. Senior dogs also have different requirements than younger adult dogs. Make sure that you select a food that is appropriate for your dog’s stage in life.
• The Dog’s Health
Does your dog have a specific medical condition? If so, the food you choose may need to be partially dictated by that condition. Diabetic dogs need low-glucose foods and dogs with specific allergies (yes dogs can be allergic to all sorts of things, just like people) may require certain foods as well. Your veterinarian can help you choose foods that are appropriate for a dog with a specific medical condition.
• The Dog’s Size or Body Type
Some dogs are overweight. Some dogs are underweight. Some have a natural tendency to get lots of exercise while others tend to prefer to lie around a lot. There are, of course, small, medium, and large dogs as well as the ultra-tiny “toy” dogs. All of these different types of dogs will have different requirements for the type of food they need as well as how much of it.
• Your Budget
Dog food can be expensive, there’s no doubt about it. And where dog food is concerned, the rule really is “you get what you pay for.” Low cost generics and store brands will lighten the burden on your wallet, but may not be the healthiest choice for your dog as they are made with cheap ingredients and lots of fillers. You should buy the best dog food you can on your budget to help ensure your dog’s nutrition.

Top Ten Dog Training Mistakes

If you are in the process of training your dog or considering it, then you might like to check the following list to ensure that you are not making one of the common mistakes.
1) Giving different words for the same command.
If you want your dog to obey your commands, you must be consistent with the words that you use. For example you may issue the command “Sit” most of the time. It is no good expecting your dog to also sit down when you say “Get down off my favourite chair”
2) Rubbing nose in urine
This has no affect on training a dog. All you are doing is burning is nose. Which is probably something that you don’t want to do.
3) Smacking, hitting and punishing the dog.
Experts dog trainers have shown that this type of human behaviour has no positive effect on a dog,
4) Shouting
This will just confuse the dog. Remember, that the whole point of verbal commands is that you have taught the dog to learn from the sound of your voice to link it to an action that he needs to take.
5) Letting the dog eat at the same time as you.
This indicates to the dog that he is your equal. What you need to do is let the dog eat after you. This will teach him that you are the master and in control.
6) Making training session to long.
15 minutes is just about right for a training session. This keeps it fun for young dogs that can have a short attention span.
7) Starting training too late in the dogs life
It’s far easier to train a young puppy. As a dog gets older you will have to put in a lot more obedience training and may have to take the dog to a training school.
8) Puppy crate to big
Puppies don’t like to be a in a big crate. It makes them feel uncomfortable. You can get crates that are adjustable. So that as the dog gets bigger you can adjust the size of the crate to accommodate him.
9) Training the dog when you are in a bad mood.
Don’t train the dog when you are in a bad mood. This means that the tone of your voice will be different and the dog will not be able to link your verbal commands to the action that he should take.
10) Not giving lots of praise.
To enforce your commands, when the dog has taken the right action give him lots of praise.

What Are Bottom Water Tropical Fish?

Bottom water fish are those that prefer living at the lowest level of the aquarium. It's not that they can't swim into the upper regions, they will when spurred by a fish that pesters them, or just for the sake of a quick dash around the tank. But for the most part, they live on the bottom, which is where most of their food comes from.
Tropical fish that prefer the bottom of the tank, usually eat algae that grows there, as well as leftover food that falls on the substrate or the broad leaves of some plants. In a way, the bottom water fish are the housekeepers of your aquarium, cleaning up scraps and preventing the build up of algae. But this is not always a sufficient diet, and they need to be given food that comes in a form or shape specifically designed to reach, and appeal to the bottom feeder.
This is usually a wafer shape, dense enough that it sinks past the top and middle feeders, to rest on the bottom and soften. The bottom feeders can then browse at their leisure, returning later to clean up the remains. In that respect, they are not like top and middle feeders, where food is given a pinch at a time, and feeding should stop as soon as they lose interest. Those tropical fish that hang around the bottom tend to be "grazers", and not the gulpers that you'll find dashing for the surface when they see you coming.
Some of the better-known bottom water fish are the loach, and catfish. There are also algae eaters, Botia, Corys, Knifefish and the more unusual specimens like Goby and Needle Nose.

Heartworms In Dogs – What They Are & What To Do

Heartworms (Latin name Dirofilaria immitis) are parasitic worms that are common in both dogs and cats. Like their name suggests, they live in the dog’s heart, normally free-floating in the right ventricle and nearby blood vessels. The worms are transmitted from dog to dog by mosquitoes which pass the worm larvae through their saliva. The presence of heartworms can be very dangerous to the dog’s health. Although the dog will not display signs of infection until it has progressed considerably, heartworms can be life threatening and are sometimes difficult to detect and diagnose.
Signs of Heartworm Infection
When a dog is first infected with heartworms, there are literally no signs and the presence of heartworms can not be detected even with a blood test. Once the worm larva reaches the heart and matures, however, signs that are detectible by X-ray start to develop almost immediately. These include damage to the blood vessels around the heart and lungs. It is rare that a dog will be infected by only one worm and as the mature worms in the heart grow in size and number, the conditions worsen, eventually causing a blockage of blood flow. It is at this point that the dog will start to display physical signs which can include pain, hypertension, difficulty breathing, lethargy or even fainting. In extremely progressed cases the dog can suffer from heart failure and death although by the time the heartworm disease has reached this stage the owner has probably realized that something is going on and sought veterinary care.
Treating Heartworm Infection
Once a dog has been diagnosed as having heartworms, treatment must be started. What this treatment is and how it is administered is dependant on the stage of heartworm infection. Generally, there are four stages of heartworm disease.
• Stage One – Dogs at the lowest risk – heartworms are detected in X-rays but all other tests appear normal.
• Stage Two – Dogs are moderately infected, may have some difficulty breathing and be demonstrating coughing
• Stage Three – Dogs are severely affected & may display weight loss, have difficulty breathing, blood tests likely show kidney and/or liver damage
• Stage Four – Dogs have Vena Cava Syndrome and are in shock, essentially dying – surgery may be undertaken to remove worms, but there is no guarantee that it will save the dog.
When it comes to heartworms in dogs, prevention truly is the best medicine. The best time to begin a preventative treatment is early in puppy-hood, before the dog is seven months old since dogs older than seven months are at a great risk for adverse reactions to the preventative treatments.

Doggie Hygiene

Washing your dog is important, but not as important as some people think. Healthy dogs actually don’t need to be washed all that often, but humans prefer to bathe them so that they have a more pleasing smell and appearance. Doggie bath time is a good time to spend with the dog, however. Although most of them don’t like to be washed, they will appreciate the contact and attention that they receive from their owners during a bath. It is also a good time to perform some other necessary “dog maintenance” such as cleaning the ears, checking for ticks and fleas, and brushing the teeth. Since many dogs do not like to sit still for any of these activities, it can be a good idea to do them all at once.
Brushing Dogs’ Teeth
Brushing your dogs’ teeth is just good dental hygiene. Most vets recommend that it be done at least twice a week to ensure your dog maintains healthy teeth and gums. If you’ve not been doing this (and, unfortunately, many people don’t) it’s never too late to start. The dog should have its own toothbrush and special toothpaste designed for dogs. Make sure you brush the back teeth in small circles, the same way you would your own, and brush up and down the length of the “pointy” canine teeth. Dog toothpaste is made to have a pleasing taste (for the dog, don’t try it yourself) and this should make the dog willing to let you perform this activity.
Checking for Ticks & Fleas
Ticks are nasty little arachnids (they’re eight-legged creatures like spiders, and therefore are not insects) that will latch onto your dog’s skin and make its blood their meal ticket. They are most common in wooded areas, but your dog should be checked for them regularly because they can carry a number of diseases. The best place to look for these bugs in under the collar or on the dog’s underbelly, buried in the fur. If found they can be removed with tweezers.
Fleas can be found in the same places, under the fur. The presence of fleas can be betrayed by the sight of their droppings on the dog’s coat. They look like flecks of pepper. The fleas themselves look like bits of brown rice. They’re about an eighth of an inch long. They can’t simply be picked off of the dog like ticks can, but finding them will let you know its time to start the dog on a program to control and eliminate the insects.
Cleaning the Ears
Pet supply stores sell special solutions for cleansing a dog’s ears. Dogs can easily get ear mites, small insects which live in the ears and feed of the waxy secretions there. Over time the bodies of these short-lived creatures build up and form a black, dirty substance. Using a cotton swab dipped in a bit of this solution, gently clean the inner ear. It may be difficult to hold the dog still for this procedure, but it doesn’t take long. And the result will be clean ears and the avoidance of potential infection and earaches in the dog.

Doggie Hygiene

Washing your dog is important, but not as important as some people think. Healthy dogs actually don’t need to be washed all that often, but humans prefer to bathe them so that they have a more pleasing smell and appearance. Doggie bath time is a good time to spend with the dog, however. Although most of them don’t like to be washed, they will appreciate the contact and attention that they receive from their owners during a bath. It is also a good time to perform some other necessary “dog maintenance” such as cleaning the ears, checking for ticks and fleas, and brushing the teeth. Since many dogs do not like to sit still for any of these activities, it can be a good idea to do them all at once.
Brushing Dogs’ Teeth
Brushing your dogs’ teeth is just good dental hygiene. Most vets recommend that it be done at least twice a week to ensure your dog maintains healthy teeth and gums. If you’ve not been doing this (and, unfortunately, many people don’t) it’s never too late to start. The dog should have its own toothbrush and special toothpaste designed for dogs. Make sure you brush the back teeth in small circles, the same way you would your own, and brush up and down the length of the “pointy” canine teeth. Dog toothpaste is made to have a pleasing taste (for the dog, don’t try it yourself) and this should make the dog willing to let you perform this activity.
Checking for Ticks & Fleas
Ticks are nasty little arachnids (they’re eight-legged creatures like spiders, and therefore are not insects) that will latch onto your dog’s skin and make its blood their meal ticket. They are most common in wooded areas, but your dog should be checked for them regularly because they can carry a number of diseases. The best place to look for these bugs in under the collar or on the dog’s underbelly, buried in the fur. If found they can be removed with tweezers.
Fleas can be found in the same places, under the fur. The presence of fleas can be betrayed by the sight of their droppings on the dog’s coat. They look like flecks of pepper. The fleas themselves look like bits of brown rice. They’re about an eighth of an inch long. They can’t simply be picked off of the dog like ticks can, but finding them will let you know its time to start the dog on a program to control and eliminate the insects.
Cleaning the Ears
Pet supply stores sell special solutions for cleansing a dog’s ears. Dogs can easily get ear mites, small insects which live in the ears and feed of the waxy secretions there. Over time the bodies of these short-lived creatures build up and form a black, dirty substance. Using a cotton swab dipped in a bit of this solution, gently clean the inner ear. It may be difficult to hold the dog still for this procedure, but it doesn’t take long. And the result will be clean ears and the avoidance of potential infection and earaches in the dog.

Bird Feeder Basics

Bird Feeders The fastest way to a bird's heart is definitely through their stomach. Put up a backyard bird feeder and birds will certainly come to feed in your yard. Where you live determines what you'll see because of differences in birds' range and habitat preferences. As words spread about your feeder, the kinds of birds and the size of crowd will increase. Even if you live in the city where it seems pigeons and house sparrows are the only birds on earth, you'll get surprise visitors that find your food or stop in on migration.
Bird Feeder Basics When you shop for bird feeders, you'll find your choices are almost limitless. You may wonder how to decide what to buy. Here are some hints.
Ease of use - The most important factor in choosing a feeder is how easy it is to use - for both the owner and the birds. You want a feeder that's easy to fill and that holds a reasonable amount of seed. If you are just getting started, look for a feeder that displays seed in full view because birds are attracted by the sight of food and by the sight of other birds eating. An open tray is great for starters.
Make sure your bird feeder has plenty of room for birds to eat without protrusions or decorations getting in the way. Birds also like a feeder with a raised ledge or perch that they can grasp while eating.
Size - When birds come to a bird feeder, they want food, and they wait it fast. Choose a main tray feeder that's big enough for at least a dozen birds to eat at once. Supplement that with hopper- and tube-type bird feeders. Domed feeders are great for small birds like chickadees. Feeders inside wire cages give small birds a place to eat and peace without competition from starlings or other larger birds. Once you have one or two large bird feeder you can add as many smaller feeders as you like.
Quality - Make sure your bird feeder is well made. A sturdy, simple, but beautiful feeder costs more than you'd think. Expect to pay $30 - $75 for a feeder that will last for years.
Tray (Platform) Feeders A must have for any backyard is a simple wooden tray feeder. It's big, it's easy to fill, and it accommodates several birds. The other feeders pick up the overflow and they can be stocked with treats. Cardinals, finches, jays, grosbeaks, bluebirds, blackbirds, nuthatches, chickadees, titmice, and buntings all prefer an open tray feeder. The only birds reluctant to us a tray feeder mounted on a post are ground-feeding birds. A very low tray on stumped legs will accommodate these birds, which include native sparrows, quail, towhees, and doves. You can put any kind of seed in a tray except for small Niger, lettuce, and grass seeds, which are prone to blow away or get wasted. Platform feeders are also good places to put out doughnuts, bread crumbs and fruit.
Platform feeders with a roof are often called fly-through feeders. One problem with tray feeders is that plenty of seed gets kicked to the ground. Adding raised edges to a platform feeder transforms it into tray feeder.
Tray feeders can be hung. A popular hanging model, the Droll Yankees X-l Seed saver is protected by a dome to keep seed dry and prevent squirrels from raiding. This feeder works especially well as a mealworm feeder.
Hopper Feeders Hopper-style bird feeders with plastic or glass enclosures that dole out seed as they're needed, are an efficient choice because seed is used as needed and large amounts aren't exposed to wet or snowy weather, or kicked out by scratching birds. Many birds, including chickadees, nuthatches, titmice, cardinals, jays, and woodpeckers, eat eagerly at a hopper feeder. Make sure the tray of a hopper-style bird feeder has enough room for more than two or three birds to gather and eat, and check to see if the feeder will be easy to clean if seed spoils in bad weather. Be especially careful if you mount your hopper feeder permanently in the garden. If the hopper or frame blocks the tray, the feeder may be very hard to clean.
Hopper feeders are not always rectangular. They can be many-sided or tubular, resembling a gazebo, lantern, or silo, and may be called by those names. A popular round hopper design is the Sky Cafe by Arundale, a hanging feeder made entirely of clear polycarbonate. The hopper and feeding platform are protected by a large, steeply sloped hood designed to detour squirrels. The idea of a large dome above a feeder to protect it from squirrels is incorporated in a number of feeder designs, including Droll Yankees' Big Top.
One of the most significant innovations in hopper feeders has been the "squirrel-proof" models created by Heritage Farms, such as The Absolute II. Birds must sit on a rail to reach the seed tray. The rail has a counterweight that can be adjusted so that a squirrel's weight or that of a jay or blackbird will cause the shield to lower in front of the tray.
Wire-Mesh Feeders Perfect for holding shelled peanuts wire-mesh feeders are fun to watch. Blue jays, woodpeckers, and chickadees can cling to the mesh and pick seeds out one at a time. Squirrels can pick seeds too, but one seed at a time can be painfully slow. Wire-mesh feeders work equally well dispensing black oil sunflower seeds and most other larger seeds. Small, round millet grains pour through the openings and are not a good choice for these feeders.
Most commercial wire-mesh feeders are tubular, but some are shaped like hoppers and may be attached to a platform where birds can perch to feed, rather than having to cling to the mesh.
Mesh bags, often called thistle socks, are also available for dispensing Niger seed. Refillable socks made of fabric and disposable ones made of plastic are available. Squirrels or rain can quickly ruin thistle socks, so hang them in a protected place.
Window Feeders Years ago, before the fancy screens and storm windows, many people simply scattered a handful of crumbs or seeds for the birds on their windowsills. You can mount a simple shallow tray feeder on the outside of a window, mounting it like a window box (but higher and closer to the pane). You can use wooden or metal brackets that attach below the sill or on the sill. Perfect for kids and indoor cats - many window feeders attach with suction cups. Typically made of clear plastic, models by Aspects, Duncraft and K-Feeders are among those available.
The most popular window feeders are made by Coveside and the Birding Company. A one-way mirror allows the feeding activity to be observed while keeping the birds from being disturbed. The feeders need to be placed in a sunny spot for the one-way mirror to work. The feeder can be cleaned and food replaced from inside the house.
Tube Feeders Simple tube feeders are a perfect example of form matching function. They're self-contained, so seed stays dry; they hold a good quantity of seed, so they don't need refilling too often; and they can accommodate several birds at one time. Not all tube feeders are created equal though. You should invest a few extra dollars in the more expensive feeders such as Duncraft or Droll Yankees. The tube itself is sturdier, the feeding holes are designed better so there's less spillage or feeds as birds eat, and the heavier metal used on top and bottom makes the feeder much more stable. Being heavier they don't swing as easily in the wind scattering seed on the ground.
Tube feeders are welcomed by goldfinches, purple finches, pine siskins, chickadees, and house finches, who seem to know they can eat in peace there without being disturbed by the bigger birds. The size of the hole (port) determines whether you have a feeder that should be filled with Niger, birdseed mix or sunflower seeds.
There are two styles of tube feeders. One is designed with small feeding ports for the tiny Niger seeds; the other has larger ports for such seeds as black oil sunflower, safflower, or mixed seed.
Not all tube feeders are cylinders. There are tube feeders with three, four, or more sides. It is the idea of feeding ports built into the elongated seed container that makes a feeder a tube feeder.
The Droll Yankees A6 Tube Feeder is still a top seller. Droll Yankee feeders have a lifetime guarantee. Other variations include Perky Pet's Upside-Down Thistle Feeder. Perches are placed above the feeding ports so that seed can be accessed only by finches that can feed upside down, a design that excludes house finches.
Two or three tubes are sometimes ganged together, as the Opus TopFlight Triple Tube Feeder. With a total of 12 ports, it can feed more birds than a single tube, and it also has the option of being filled with a different seed type in each tube.
Most tube feeders are made of transparent plastic, but Vari-Craft makes particularly attractive tube feeders of white PVC. Ports are made of a hard plastic. A squirrel-proof model is available with stainless steel ports.
Most tube feeders can be fitted with round trays underneath that catch spillage from birds like finches, which are notoriously messy eaters. The tray serves double duty as a small platform feeder for such birds as cardinals and doves, which benefit from the slung seed.
Tube feeders are sometimes placed inside a wire-mesh cage for protection from squirrels. Cages also keep large birds like grackles from perching on a tray and reaching up to the feeder ports.
Nectar Feeders Sweet sugar water, or nectar, is a huge draw for hummingbirds. Put up a nectar feeder and you're practically guaranteed to get hummers. The birds search for red and deep orange-red flowers, andanything that color will bring them in for a closer look. Your nectar feeder may also attract other birds with a sweet tooth, including orioles, house finches, and woodpeckers. In the wild these birds would satisfy that craving with real nectar from flowers, or a sip of sugary tree sap or fruit juice. The sugar boost gives them quick calories and the energy needed to live.
As with other bird feeders, look for a nectar feeder that's easy to fill and easy to clean. Make sure you can remove the base to clean out the feeding holes. Bee guards of gridded plastic over the feeder openings are a necessity unless you like to watch constant battles between wasps and hummingbirds.
Suet Feeders Suet feeders are not nearly as complex as some seed feeders. They can be as simple as a mesh sack - the kind often used for onions and potatoes. Toss a chunk of raw suet in an empty mesh sack and hang it on a tree trunk or from a branch or pole.
A popular way of presenting suet is in homemade suet logs. Perches are not necessary and if used will attract grackles and starlings. Woodpeckers and small clinging birds can get a grip on the rough wood. Stuffed with suet, these logs have woodpeckers as regular visitors. Standing dead trees can be drilled and filled like giant suet logs. If meant to attract woodpeckers, a suet feeder is likely to be found most quickly if it is attached initially to a tree trunk. Once the woodpeckers have found it, the feeder can be moved to other spots and the birds will follow.
Suet cages are sometimes combined with bird feeders. Health Manufacturing makes a beautiful redwood hopper feeder with suet cages at either end, the Classic Suet 'n Seed Feeder. Woodlink makes a similar model with a copper roof.

Intestinal Parasites In Dogs

Dogs (and cats) often fall victim to several common intestinal parasites known as worms. There are a large number of different types of intestinal worms, but dogs are most commonly affected by tapeworms, roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms. These parasites live in the digestive tract (most commonly in the intestines) where they feed on nutrients, robbing the dog of the nutrition it takes in. Worm infestations can cause a variety of undesirable symptoms including vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, and a generally poor appearance.

How do Dogs Get Worms?
There are a number of ways that a dog can wind up with an infestation of any of these types of intestinal parasites. An animal infested with any of these types of worms may pass the worms’ eggs in its feces. This is a strong argument for picking up after your pet as often as possible and not allowing your dog to eat feces (something dogs will do) whenever you can. Tapeworm eggs can be spread by fleas. Fleas eat the eggs (quite a delicacy to a flea) and then pass them to a dog when biting it. Some roundworms will lie dormant in the body of a pregnant dog and activate just before it gives birth. The activated worms make their way into the intestines of the unborn puppies where they will thrive after the pups are born.
Detecting Worms in Dogs
Worm infestations can be difficult to detect. While some worms may be passed in the feces, betraying their presence, it is uncommon. If a dog is displaying symptoms that may indicate the presence of worms, a vet should be consulted. A stool sample will be examined for the presence of worm eggs (these are microscopic) and a medication called a “wormer” will be prescribed. Stool samples are often collected as part of a routine dog physical examination in order to check for the presence of worms. In the case of tapeworms, discarded tapeworm segments may be visible in the dog’s feces or attached to the fur around the anus or under the tail. To the naked eye these may look like small bits of white rice.
Treating Dogs for Worms
When a dog is found to have an infestation of worms, it should be prescribed a wormer immediately by a vet. Depending on the severity of the infestation, the type of worms, and the likelihood of re-infestation, the treatment may need to be repeated one or several times. There are over-the-counter wormers available, but most vets do not recommend them because they are necessarily weaker and may not kill all types of worms and their eggs.
Intestinal worms can cause numerous health problems for dogs, up to and including death in extreme cases. Taking measures to prevent infestation, detect it as quickly as possible, and treat it accordingly can help keep your dog safe from these harmful parasites.

Leptospirosis In Dogs

Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection that can affect a dog’s blood, liver, and kidneys. The bacteria that cause the illness are carried primarily by rats and other rodents, but dogs that are infected with the disease can infect other dogs as well. Ingestion of the urine of an infected animal is the most common means of transmission, but the bacteria can be contracted through damaged or thin skin as well.
Leptospirosis is an odd disease that can often show no signs or symptoms at all. In these cases the bacteria are eventually defeated by the dog’s natural defenses. Other times, and more often, however, the disease can be life threatening to the infected dog. The three main forms of the disease are hemorrhagic (infection in the blood, causing bleeding), renal (infecting the kidneys), and icteric (infecting the liver).
Hemorrhagic Leptospirosis tends to start with a high fever, loss of appetite, and general lethargy. Small hemorrhages start to occur in the mouth and eyes and the dog may develop extreme bloody vomiting and diarrhea. This form of the disease is often fatal.
Icteric Leptospirosis will often start the same way as the hemorrhagic form; with fever, lethargy, and loss of appetite. The mouth and whites of the eyes will take on a yellow appearance, similar to victims of jaundice. In some cases the dog’s skin may also appear yellow and jaundiced.
Renal Leptospirosis also starts with fever, appetite loss, and lethargic depression, but eventually leads to kidney failure.
All three forms of the disease are treatable and curable and all three forms can be potentially fatal. Often dogs that survive renal Leptospirosis will have chronic kidney disease for the rest of their lives.
Treatment is accomplished with the use of antibiotics and, if the disease is caught early enough, is generally successful. Cases of Leptospirosis in North America are fairly rare, thanks to the development of a vaccine. Puppies are inoculated for the disease as early as six weeks of age and receive annual renewal shots to maintain their immunity.
Vaccination and clean, hygienic conditions are the best way to avoid Leptospirosis in dogs. If the animal is not able to come into contact with disease carrying rats and their urine, the dog is unlikely to become infected, even if unvaccinated. The leptospirosis vaccine is the most likely of all dog vaccinations to cause an adverse reaction in the dog. This reaction is generally mild and most often includes lethargy, loss of appetite, and depression. These effects last only a few days and afterward the dog is fine and, more importantly, protected from the disease.
Leptospirosis is one of the nastier diseases a dog can get and no one wants to see his or her pet suffer with this illness. Fortunately, thanks to the existence of a good vaccine, few dogs have to endure this life threatening illness in today’s day and age.

Kennel Cough In Dogs

The condition commonly known as “Kennel Cough” is one of the most prevalent infectious diseases that dogs can contract. The disease is not serious in most cases, however, and often resolves itself after one to two weeks. The accepted medical term for kennel cough is tracheobronchitis, indicating a form of bronchitis that affects the dog’s trachea.
Kennel cough can be caused by several airborne bacteria and viruses. It is generally accepted that most cases of kennel cough are caused by the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica but it has also been associated with the canine distemper virus (CDV) and canine parainfluenza. It is the general consensus of the veterinary medical community that in order to cause the illness, an animal must be virtually bombarded by multiple versions of these pathogens at one time. For this reason it is dogs that spend a lot of time around other dogs that are most at risk for the disease. Dogs that participate in dog shows or spend a lot of time in kennels are the highest risks for kennel cough.
The primary symptom of kennel cough is a dry, spasmodic cough which is caused by the inflammation of the dog’s trachea and bronchi. Coughing spells will often result in the dog coughing up a white and foamy discharge. Some dogs will also develop conjunctivitis – an inflammation of the membrane that lines the eyelids. Nasal discharge may also be present. In effect, the dog appears to have a very nasty cold or flu. As stated above, the disease is rarely serious and almost never life-threatening. Still, if you have seen any of these symptoms or have reason to believe that your dog has or has been exposed to kennel cough, you should consult your vet immediately.
Your vet will be able to diagnose kennel cough with a physical examination and medical history. The cough associated with the ailment is very characteristic and a simple massage of the dog’s throat can usually cause it to cough on cue. In some cases, such as if the dog is depressed or feverish or expelling a yellow or green discharge, the doctor may require additional diagnostic tests such as a complete blood count (CBC) and laboratory testing of microorganisms in the dog’s airway. These tests will help the doctor rule out other infectious diseases such as influenza, pneumonia, or canine distemper.
Immunization can help prevent kennel cough and is recommended. When kenneling your dog or traveling it may be required before your dog will be admitted. Effective immunization can be difficult, however, because the disease can be caused by so many different pathogens. Active prevention on your part can be accomplished by not allowing your dog’s toys or water and food bowls to be accessed by unfamiliar dogs. If participating in dog shows make sure that the area is well ventilated to assist with the expulsion of airborne pathogens.
Kennel cough is treated with antibiotics in most cases. Antibiotics will help prevent any secondary illnesses from developing while the dog gets over its case of kennel cough.
The condition commonly known as “Kennel Cough” is one of the most prevalent infectious diseases that dogs can contract. The disease is not serious in most cases, however, and often resolves itself after one to two weeks. The accepted medical term for kennel cough is tracheobronchitis, indicating a form of bronchitis that affects the dog’s trachea.
Kennel cough can be caused by several airborne bacteria and viruses. It is generally accepted that most cases of kennel cough are caused by the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica but it has also been associated with the canine distemper virus (CDV) and canine parainfluenza. It is the general consensus of the veterinary medical community that in order to cause the illness, an animal must be virtually bombarded by multiple versions of these pathogens at one time. For this reason it is dogs that spend a lot of time around other dogs that are most at risk for the disease. Dogs that participate in dog shows or spend a lot of time in kennels are the highest risks for kennel cough.
The primary symptom of kennel cough is a dry, spasmodic cough which is caused by the inflammation of the dog’s trachea and bronchi. Coughing spells will often result in the dog coughing up a white and foamy discharge. Some dogs will also develop conjunctivitis – an inflammation of the membrane that lines the eyelids. Nasal discharge may also be present. In effect, the dog appears to have a very nasty cold or flu. As stated above, the disease is rarely serious and almost never life-threatening. Still, if you have seen any of these symptoms or have reason to believe that your dog has or has been exposed to kennel cough, you should consult your vet immediately.
Your vet will be able to diagnose kennel cough with a physical examination and medical history. The cough associated with the ailment is very characteristic and a simple massage of the dog’s throat can usually cause it to cough on cue. In some cases, such as if the dog is depressed or feverish or expelling a yellow or green discharge, the doctor may require additional diagnostic tests such as a complete blood count (CBC) and laboratory testing of microorganisms in the dog’s airway. These tests will help the doctor rule out other infectious diseases such as influenza, pneumonia, or canine distemper.
Immunization can help prevent kennel cough and is recommended. When kenneling your dog or traveling it may be required before your dog will be admitted. Effective immunization can be difficult, however, because the disease can be caused by so many different pathogens. Active prevention on your part can be accomplished by not allowing your dog’s toys or water and food bowls to be accessed by unfamiliar dogs. If participating in dog shows make sure that the area is well ventilated to assist with the expulsion of airborne pathogens.
Kennel cough is treated with antibiotics in most cases. Antibiotics will help prevent any secondary illnesses from developing while the dog gets over its case of kennel cough.

Kennel Cough In Dogs

The condition commonly known as “Kennel Cough” is one of the most prevalent infectious diseases that dogs can contract. The disease is not serious in most cases, however, and often resolves itself after one to two weeks. The accepted medical term for kennel cough is tracheobronchitis, indicating a form of bronchitis that affects the dog’s trachea.
Kennel cough can be caused by several airborne bacteria and viruses. It is generally accepted that most cases of kennel cough are caused by the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica but it has also been associated with the canine distemper virus (CDV) and canine parainfluenza. It is the general consensus of the veterinary medical community that in order to cause the illness, an animal must be virtually bombarded by multiple versions of these pathogens at one time. For this reason it is dogs that spend a lot of time around other dogs that are most at risk for the disease. Dogs that participate in dog shows or spend a lot of time in kennels are the highest risks for kennel cough.
The primary symptom of kennel cough is a dry, spasmodic cough which is caused by the inflammation of the dog’s trachea and bronchi. Coughing spells will often result in the dog coughing up a white and foamy discharge. Some dogs will also develop conjunctivitis – an inflammation of the membrane that lines the eyelids. Nasal discharge may also be present. In effect, the dog appears to have a very nasty cold or flu. As stated above, the disease is rarely serious and almost never life-threatening. Still, if you have seen any of these symptoms or have reason to believe that your dog has or has been exposed to kennel cough, you should consult your vet immediately.
Your vet will be able to diagnose kennel cough with a physical examination and medical history. The cough associated with the ailment is very characteristic and a simple massage of the dog’s throat can usually cause it to cough on cue. In some cases, such as if the dog is depressed or feverish or expelling a yellow or green discharge, the doctor may require additional diagnostic tests such as a complete blood count (CBC) and laboratory testing of microorganisms in the dog’s airway. These tests will help the doctor rule out other infectious diseases such as influenza, pneumonia, or canine distemper.
Immunization can help prevent kennel cough and is recommended. When kenneling your dog or traveling it may be required before your dog will be admitted. Effective immunization can be difficult, however, because the disease can be caused by so many different pathogens. Active prevention on your part can be accomplished by not allowing your dog’s toys or water and food bowls to be accessed by unfamiliar dogs. If participating in dog shows make sure that the area is well ventilated to assist with the expulsion of airborne pathogens.
Kennel cough is treated with antibiotics in most cases. Antibiotics will help prevent any secondary illnesses from developing while the dog gets over its case of kennel cough.

Feeding Time Should Be Training Time

Feeding Time Should Be Training Time
Using Food Daily to Promote Good Obedience
Can you guess why feeding time is so important? Simply put, feeding time means your dog is HUNGRY and will therefore do almost anything to get fed. Since you, his loving owner, have the power to either feed or starve your pet, your dog looks to you as its only supplier of food. This means you play a vital role in your dog's life. Now, learn how to use this to your advantage.
Your Advantage
Since you possess this role, it is time to use it to your benefit. No longer look at feeding time without the element of dog training involved. This means that whenever your dog is to be fed, he is also expected to do something for the food. Never feed your dog without some sort of request from him. In this case, we want our dogs to do something pleasant such as not jumping or barking, but rather sitting down patiently and waiting for us. This is especially important when dealing with energetic dog breeds.
TIP: Consistent Feeding
Feeding times should be scheduled at the same time daily for sake of consistency. Nothing is worse than a confused dog wondering when it will get his next meal. Feeding time can be in the morning before work, and in the evening after work. The same person should feed the dog as much as possible to reinforce that person as the Leader -- the one your dog obeys and listens to above all others. This is especially important for growing puppies, as they must know who is the leader from an early age.
Feeding Time
When it is time to feed your dog, use a command word like "Food?" each time to remind him what to expect. As you begin to fill the bowl and bring out the food, notice the dog's behaviour. Is he jumping on you? Barking? Give him a stern NO and wait. If your dog persists, ignore him until he stops. Your dog will quickly realize that barking and jumping only prolong feeding time.
Before you lay his bowl down, tell him to sit. Do not feed him until he is sitting and quiet.
Be Persistent!
Don't be discouraged if your dog isn't an angel immediately. As long as you continue to encorce good habits, he will eventually learn. Soon your dog should be waiting patiently every time is it to be fed because he will understand that the quickest way to get fed is to obey!
It Doesn't Stop At Feeding Time
Use other opportunities other than feeding time to encourage good habits. Before you bring him for a walk (You remembered to give him the keyword "Walk?", didn't you?) make sure he is also sitting patiently for you -- otherwise don't leave. Dogs are intelligent pets and they learn from experience. If sitting and waiting patiently mean a bowl of food, then your dog will be more than happy to comply. Just don't forget to give him praise from time to time to further encourage dog bonding and good behaviour.

Five Puppy Training Tips

Here are five easy to use training tips for your new puppy.

1.) Chewing Problems - The most effective solution to a puppy chewing on something he shouldn't is to not discipline him, but to simply replace the object that he is chewing with a chew toy and then to raise him greatly for chewing on his chew toy. Positive encouragement is what a puppy will respond to the most.

2.) House Training - The easiest way to house train your puppy is to always take him out immediately after his meal. Wait for him to go. Once he goes, praise him greatly. He'll soon get the idea that going outside is the correct thing to do.

3.) Playtime - When you are thinking about getting a puppy, make sure you have the appropriate time to give to your dog. Estimated necessary time is about 10-30 minutes for eating (3 times a day), 10-30 minutes for a walk (3 times a day) and about an hour of playtime with your dog. Most people don't realize the amount of time that a healthy puppy will require.

4.) Dog Crates - Dog Crates can have a positive impact on both the dog and the owner. It'll give the dog a safe and secure area that is very close the "den" like atmosphere that dogs had in the wild. Once a dog is comfortable with a crate, it'll allow the owner to safely transport the dog and help to house train a puppy (they won't want to do business in their den).

5.) Hide The Chocolate - When getting ready for halloween, make sure you keep the candy out of reach of the dog, especially chocolate. Chocolate is very dangerous to a dog. It can make the dog very very sick. If you suspect that your dog has eaten chocolate, you should your veterinarian IMMEDIATELY.

Allergic To Your Dog Or Cat?

Pets definitely help us live longer and healthier lives. This is especially true of the elderly and those of us who live alone. Pets make wonderful and faithful companions. They are always there for us. However, this relationship can become strained, and sometimes even be broken when someone in the household develops an allergy to a beloved pet.
Studies show that approximately 15% of the population suffers from an allergy to a dog or cat, and about one third of those with an allergy to cats choose to live in a household with a cat despite the allergy. Some allergy suffers live happily with a pet for a year or two before an allergy starts.
There are sometimes long term health ramifications of repeated allergy flair up's, especially for children. Repeated flair-up's can cause permanent lung damage in children. This should be carefully and thoroughly discussed with your physician. One of the ways to live happily with an animal you are allergic to is to decrease your exposure to the animal. Keep the animal outside if possible.
If the allergy sufferer only has a mild reaction to the animal there are ways for the two of them to live together in harmony, but it takes work. The animal should not be allowed in the allergy sufferers bedroom or on the bed. Keep the animal off of any upholstered furniture in the house as dander can be transferred to upholstered furniture. Use a room purifier to remove airborne animal dander. Remove carpets from the home if possible and replace with wood floors. Wash area rugs on a regular basis with warm water. Use a vacuum with a HEPA filter in order to trap dander. The allergy sufferer should wash his or her face and hands after handling the animal. The animal can be bathed weekly in specially formulated shampoo that removes dander.
In some cases where the above methods and the use of over the counter antihistamines and decongestants do not help, the allergy sufferer may need to seek the help of an allergist. Immunotherapy can be thought of like a vaccination against your allergies. Given on a regular basis as shots, immunotherapy helps your body build up a natural tolerance to specific allergens.
With the use of the above methods you'll be able to live a long and healthy life with your pet!

Pet Therapy Given Major Boost

Americans spent over $32 billion on their pets last year – and $25 billion on their children. This may come as a bit of a shock, however, we are becoming more and more aware of the emotional and physical rewards of owning a pet – or especially a dog.
The converted will willingly tell you that owning a dog auto-matically gives you a constant companion, friend, confidante, exerciser and instinctive soul re-generator. Yet it is only in the last decade or so that we have taken pets seriously medically, much to our own detriment.
Nowadays though, pet therapy can be a very important feature of cancer recovery programs, prosthetic limb replacement recovery, treatment for depression, speech inducement for severely delayed children and of course, just sheer pleasure for the elderly in hospices and aged care facilities.

However, when you consider how many patients/clients and carers could benefit from the pure love and support of a pet, the supply can never keep up with demand – that is, not until now.
www.woofywarehouse.com is a new pet goods supplier that has come up with what they think will be the answer to the dilemma. Owner of www.woofywarehouse.com Adele Sims saw firsthand the effects of having a pet around – or not. “I was driving the children to school one morning and we saw a man walking along who was afflicted with muscular dystrophy. His walk was staggered and his bad arm swung like a broken wing as he headed for home. We have often passed him on his walks and had become quite accustomed to him as he walked up the middle of the road.
“This particular morning we noticed that a woman with a soft and beautiful golden retriever was coming up to him in the opposite direction. As the dog came closer and started wagging its tail the man became so excited that he just had to pat the dog. A huge smile beamed across his face as he touched the soft head of the dog who happily lapped up the attention. But the owner of the dog became a little alarmed at this stranger and started pulling the dog away so they could continue on their walk. She pulled the dog away and walked on, but the man stopped and watched the dog go. His face dropped, his head bowed and he just stood there for quite a while and watched as the dog disappeared around the corner. It was a very sad and moving experience for both myself and the boys as they saw the scenario unfold. From that time on I vowed I would do as much as I could to bring people and animals together. And having our own dog supplies warehouse we were in a unique position to be able to help,” she said.
For every purchase over $20 from its range, www.woofywarehouse.com will donate a percentage of profits to the Delta Society whose main aim is to incorporate the benefits of pet therapy into varied programs which target the physical, mental, educational and motivational areas of people’s lives.
With animal involve-ment in therapy, Delta Society has found that both fine and gross motor skills can be improved, as can wheelchair skills. It can also dispel loneliness and reduce anxiety, develop leisure skills and promote short or long-term memory.
The benefits are too numerous to count and now there is a way you can support this essential cause whilst providing your own dog with all the supplies that this little hero deserves.
“We have had our own special Joycie – a Belgian sheep dog – for over nine years now and we couldn’t imagine our family without her. We jokingly call her our third child and the boys talk about her as their hairy little sister. And when our older son was little he had some speech problems of his own that no amount of intervention or lessons or whatever, seemed to bring right. It wasn’t until he chose and named Joycie and started trying to train her that he started to get his words right. It was only then that he was able to give clear directions and for the first time in his life he was able to yell out commands. This sounds ridiculous I suppose, but he had never been able to do that before – his words would always fade away. Joycie made a huge impact on his life and they are inseparable friends. We often find our son talking to her as if she were a best buddy and Joycie smiles and listens and nuzzles him as if she understands every word. She comes everywhere with us and is a much loved family member. If we can help bring some of this joy to others then we would consider ourselves to be very blessed.” Adele went on to say.

Frequently Asked Dog Training Questions:

1. Why do dogs eat their poop?

One reason dogs eat their poop is because it just plain taste good. Another reason is it could be a vitamin deficiency. One other reason for the poop eating is that it is an instinctual behavior in the wild to eat the poop to keep other predators from tracking their movements. Some solutions for stopping poop eating are: You can put meat tenderizer on their food and it is supposed to make the poop taste bad once it goes through the body. Check to make sure your dog food is nutritous enough and they are getting everything they need in their diet. The best and most effective way is to clean up after your dog immediately.

2. How do I get my dogs to stop barking?

Dogs bark as a form of communication. Dogs will also bark out of boredom. Dogs that are not with their pack [you are their pack] will bark to get the packs attention to let them know they are lonely. Dogs will bark to alert that there is a person walking by or another dog in their territory it is a natural form of communication. If you remove the stimulant then there is no need to bark at it. The best way to stop nuisance barking is to exercise/socialize your dog. If the dog is with their pack then they is no need to get the packs attention. Dogs also bark when they are excited it is their natural way of communication.

3. How do I get my dog to stop chewing up the furniture?

If you have a puppy it is probably teething and in some pain. The chewing is satiating to them and can possibly be soothing their gums. You can give them a cold carrot to chew on, make sure you give it to them outside it can get quite messy. You can also freeze chicken broth in ice cube trays for them to have to help relieve some of the discomfort. You can also use Bitter Apple spray to detour them from chewing. Mature dogs usually chew out of boredom and stress. Exercise is the best way to release the stress. You can turn there attention on to something else that is more exciting then your dinning room table leg.

4. How do I get my dog to stop nipping and play-biting?

One way is to yelp very loud and startle the puppy. If the puppy was playing with another puppy and it bite to hard then the puppy would yelp to let them know it hurt. If the play stops as a result of biting too hard then the puppy will learn from being shunned away that biting stops the play time. Another solution for play biting is to have a toy and redirect the attention on to something else. You can also change the dogs environment take them outside for a walk is very helpful.

5. How do I stop my dog from potting in the house?

Once a dog start using the bathroom in the house the only method that works is PREVENTION. Every time your dog uses the bathroom in the house it takes 10 consecutively times using the bathroom outside that teaches it outside is where to go potty. So if you get to 9 times outside and then they have a mistake inside you have to start all over again. You must look at your dog/puppy as a 9 month old crawling baby with out a diaper on. Surely you would not let a 9 month old baby loose in your house with out a diaper on.

Choosing a Bed for Your Dog

Does your dog enjoy sleeping with you at night? Although cuddling with a pet can keep owner and dog warm and snuggly, keep in mind that most animals are not as clean as people, nor do they always follow the same sleep patterns. A dog can track mud, grass, and even nature's business between your sheets, not to mention fleas and ticks. He might want to go for a walk at 3 a.m. when all you want to do is sleep. These are some of the common reasons why pets deserve a bed of their own. The nesting routine is as old as time, so providing your dog with his own place to sleep can create a sense of security that will help to keep your pet calm and well adjusted, not to mention help you get a good night's sleep.
But how do you know which type of bed will best suit your canine's needs? Consider the following criteria before shopping for your dog's bedroom furniture.
1. Get the right size bed for your animal. How big will he get? If you have a large breed, get a bed with enough size to accommodate his full-grown stature. Ask the vet how tall and heavy your pet is expected to get, especially if he is a mixed breed. Then you can estimate the size of bed that will be needed. One that is too small will make your dog feel cramped, and he'll probably find another sleeping spot. On the other hand, an overly large bed could let your little Chihuahua feel insecure and unprotected, likewise leading to his hunt for a new location.
2. Train a new puppy where to sleep. Like children, pets need guidance about where to go or what to do. Keep your pet's bed in the same place to establish a routine. This might be in the laundry room, family room, the deck, or a doghouse. Don't let a puppy drag its bed all over the place or he will never learn where he's supposed to stay at night. Get in the habit of putting your dog to bed at the same time each night, and he will soon get used to it.
3. Choose durable materials. A foam mattress can provide solid support for the larger frames of full-grown pets, whereas small piece-type filling will lend more flexibility to a bed, and is better suited to small dogs or puppies. Check to be sure the cover is removable and washable, and launder it every week or two, using hot water and mild detergent to kill fleas and ticks. Teach your puppy not to chew his bedding, which will quickly destroy it and force you to buy another. A smart rap on the nose with a newspaper or a squirt of water from a spray bottle when he is caught in the act ought to do it.
4. Keep the bed out of the way to prevent accidents. Let all family members know where the bed will be kept, and tuck it into a nook or cranny where no one is likely to trip over it when carrying laundry or hurrying past that area. Your dog will be able to sleep better in a quiet, semi-protected environment.
Although buying your dog a bed should not be as time-consuming or costly as buying human furniture, it nevertheless pays to plan ahead and take time in making the best possible choice for all concerned.