Buying From Professional Breeders

If you've already familiarized yourself with the animal shelter and purebred rescue groups, you may want to check out responsible professional breeders. To find them, talk with veterinarians, seek out local dog and cat clubs, or search the Internet. And be sure to read up on the breed you're considering before visiting a breeder. Thay way, you'll know what to look for and which questions to ask.

Look for a breeder who knows a lot about the breed and knows how to breed to reduce the likelihood of genetic defects. Puppies and kittens from professional breeders receive early socialization and training to make them better pets. Animals are often sold from a waiting list created before breeding even takes place.
Selling animals for economic gain is not the goal of responsible breeders; improving their animals, their bloodlines, and the breed is the primary incentive. To screen those purchasing their animals, professional breeders sell directly to potential buyers, not through an intermediary.
Unfortunately, not all breeders have the animals' and your best interests at heart. That's why it's essential to screen breeders by visiting their kennel and talking with people who have purchased animals from them. Breeders know that the traits of their particular breed may make them unsuitable for some pet owners and will not sell their animals to unsuitable homes. Responsible breeders sell pets with contracts requiring that the animals be spayed or neutered; educate buyers about the breed and responsible pet care; remain available after the sale for support; and take back pets who don't work out. Irresponsible breeders are out for a buck, caring little for the animal, you, or your new life together.
Be careful, too, of those who breed, sell, and promote "fad" and physically challenged breeds. Many of the brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds, such as pugs and Persians, have breathing and eye problems, and sharpeis often suffer skin problems because of their multiple skin folds. Other breed standards, set by breed clubs for showing dogs in American Kennel Club competitions, may include ear cropping and tail docking. These surgeries, which cause pain and distress, are performed for cosmetic reasons and are neither medically indicated nor beneficial to the dog. A particular breed's propensity for genetic problems, or a breed standard that includes cosmetic surgery, are both good reasons to consider a different breed.

The Humane Society of the United States

Kids and Dogs Safety Tip Sheet

Teaching children the do's and don'ts regarding animals is among one of the most important lessons you'll ever teach them. Animals are everywhere and though many are domesticated, this does not automatically make them safe. For example, in the US alone, 1-2 million dog bites occur annually.
Today many homes are raising children along with the family dog. Naturally kids delight in hugging, petting, and playing with their pets. But unfortunately, many children grow up believing that all dogs are gentle and friendly like their pets, and commonly fall victim to a dog attack, simply because they'd never been taught when it's not okay to approach a dog.
Start teaching your children the following safety guidelines regarding dogs when they are quite young, and continue reinforcing these precautions frequently.
Never run up to a dog.
Never attempt to touch a neighbor's dog through a fence.
Never touch a dog that is growling, showing his teeth, or barking hysterically.
Young children must never approach dogs without a grown-up's supervision.
Always hold your hand out first and allow the dog to sniff your hand.
Never grab at a dog.
Don't approach a dog that is a watch dog protecting his property.
Never attempt to touch a dog that is eating or in possession of a bone or a treat of some sort.
Never hurt the animal by pulling it's tail or fur for example.
If the dog is leashed, ask the dog's owner permission to pet the dog first.
Keep your face away from the dog's, when approaching or playing with them.
Don't make loud noises or sudden moves when approaching a dog. Speak softly to it.
If a dog is chasing you, stop running, as this encourages him to chase you.
Avoid eye contact with an aggressive dog, and back off slowly and non-threateningly.
Do not touch, or attempt to touch, the animal's eyes.

Can a pet enjoy a good quality of life if it loses a limb?

Basil was a lovable, almost silver, mid sized, stripped tabby of no certain breed. An independent little fellow but nonetheless filled with affection in his own way. He used to fancy himself to be a hunter, but was never that successful at it, at least to the best of my knowledge he wasn't.
Only once, when Basil was not much more than a kitten, did I find an offering waiting on my kitchen floor. Now whether it was my obvious disgust about discovering half a rodent that made that the only occasion, or the fact that Basil (even when he had all four legs), was not that good at catching prey, I don't know but I suspect the latter.
More often than not Basil was out when I got home from work. He would come in when he was hungry, charging through the cat flap (pet door), and make me know, in no uncertain terms, that he was hungry. When he was home he would come running up and rub himself against my leg a couple of times, and then find himself a perch from which to observe me.
So, returning home on that late summers evening and hearing him cry out from the lounge, I knew that something was wrong.
At first, entering the room, I could hear his cries but not see him. There he was lodged tight under the stereo system. I crouched down but could not see too much of the little fellow. I reached in, scooped my arm around him and gently pulled him out. The sight of his mangled rear leg, with most of the fur missing gave me a start. Basil looked up at me with his yellow green eyes and an expression that seemed to say, "I have never asked for much from you. I made it home from the place where this happened to wait for you, all I can do is lick my wounds, but the wounds are bad, and I need your help. You will know what to do, you are my human."
I grabbed a towel and wrapped it as gently as I could around his mutilated limb. I guessed that he must have lost a lot of blood. Finding the cat carrier I settled him inside, and carried it out to my car. It was now quite late in the evening and arriving at my usual veterinarians' surgery I found it to be closed for the night. I was about to go and knock on the door and explain that I had a badly injured animal, when I remembered seeing an emergency veterinarians' office not too far away.
Moments later we were there. The lights were on, I walked in with Basil softly meowing, and explained to the receptionist that the poor chap must have been hit by a car or truck. The young lady took a look at Basil, gave him some soothing words, and called out to the veterinarian.
Not a cat that usually enjoyed being picked up by strangers, Basil the brave allowed the veterinarian to examine him without too much protest. After what seemed like an eternity the tall kindly looking "animal doctor" spoke."He's had quite an accident, it is very probable that he was thrown by the vehicle as well, but apart from the squashed leg he doesn't seem to have any other bones broken. I'm not sure what can be done, of course I will do what I can for him. Leave your details with my receptionist, go on home and I will phone you in about two hours."
I arrived home convinced that Basil the brave would have to be put to sleep. I sat thinking about him, from when he was a kitten, his futile attempts at hunting, his peculiar lovable little ways.
Eventually the phone rang. This was it, this was the veterinarian who was going to tell me that there was nothing that he could do for little Basil.
" I'm sorry..." said the veterinarian, "But I had to remove the leg."
Having been sure that he was going to tell me that Basil had been put down, on hearing that news I exclaimed " Wonderful! That's marvelous, thank you so much."
He must have thought me some kind of crazy nut, being so pleased about my pet loosing a limb!
"The amputation seems to have gone well but he will need complete rest for a while. Give my receptionist a call the day after tomorrow, and you may be able to take him home then"
The day came and I was able to bring Basil home. He had more of a stump than I imagined he would have and was able to get around with a sort of bunny hop. For the first couple of days though he did not want to do much prowling around and he kept himself indoors. On the third day when I arrived home, he was not in the flat. I went into the garden and called out for him, no sign of him at all. I went back inside feeling a little uneasy, but also pleased that he was getting back to his old self already.
Awhile later I heard the rattle of the cat flap, only it didn't sound quite the same as it usually did. On investigation I found Basil stuck half through the flap, with only 50% of his rear leg power he hadn't quite managed to get in. Not wanting to upset my surgically reduced pet by pulling him by the front legs I slowly opened the door and gently pushed him in. That was the only time, that I know of, that he got stuck, he must of quickly learned to adjust the thrust of his remaining leg.
Did his "handicap" deter him from his hunting attempts? Not a bit. He'd lay in waiting for pigeons to land in the garden, then try and rush at them, of course he never got near to a catch. Ever heard a pigeon laugh!
You know the type of garden fencing that is nothing more than thin slats of wood overlapping each other, they present a very thin top edge. Cats love to skillfully walk along them. One could be forgiven for thinking it impossible for a three legged cat, at least I did until I witnessed it. Slowly he would make his way along, his rear end seemed to drop every second step and it looked like he was about to fall. He never did, he always made it to the end.
I don't believe that Basil even knew that his leg was missing. He had a habit of sitting on his haunches, raising one hind leg and giving his ear a scratch, then repeating the process with the other leg and the other ear. He continued the habit after the accident. When it came to the missing leg, the stump would raise and waggle about and his head would turn to ensure that his ear got a good scratching from the non existent leg!
Sometimes, when folks saw Basil for the first time, they would exclaim "Poor little thing, he cant have much of a life!" Little did they know that he never let his missing leg stop him from doing the things he always had.
Basil has gone now, and I am not owned by another cat. I will save that privilege until the time I can move home to someplace with far less traffic. Whatever feline keeps me company will be wonderful I'm sure, just like Basil, who never once let his 'handicap' stop him being 100% cat.

Basic Training: House Training Your Puppy

Probably the only time you will yell at your pup is when he makes your guest room carpet his toilet area. Yelling won’t help. Training would, specifically housetraining.
Like babies, pups do not know where to “go” unless taught so. The more consistent you are in following the basic housetraining procedures, the faster your puppy will learn acceptable behavior.
According to Vinay Sharma, dog trainer and breeder, it may take several weeks to housetrain a puppy, and with some of the smaller breeds, it might take longer.
A pup under six months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time. If you have to be away from home for more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. Don't give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on him whenever he's indoors. For a small pup you will have to look out for elimination every two hours, after each meal and play. Some things you can do are:
- Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take him outside to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.
- Praise your puppy generously every time he eliminates outdoors immediately after he's finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house. This step is crucial, because this is the only way he'll know what's expected of him.
- Pick a spot and always take your puppy to that spot using a leash. Take him out for a longer walk or some playtime only after he has eliminated.
- If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot. The smell will help your puppy identify the area as the place he is supposed to eliminate.
- While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like "go potty," that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him what to do.
Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and feed a high-quality diet to make housetraining easier. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that he'll eliminate at consistent times as well, and that makes housetraining easier for both of you. Housetraining a puppy requires a lot of vigilance, patience, and plenty of commitment. Never punish a pup if an accident happens, dogs don’t understand punishment, even if it’s only seconds later after the accident. Punishment will do more harm than good.

Basic Training: House Training Your Puppy

Probably the only time you will yell at your pup is when he makes your guest room carpet his toilet area. Yelling won’t help. Training would, specifically housetraining.
Like babies, pups do not know where to “go” unless taught so. The more consistent you are in following the basic housetraining procedures, the faster your puppy will learn acceptable behavior.
According to Vinay Sharma, dog trainer and breeder, it may take several weeks to housetrain a puppy, and with some of the smaller breeds, it might take longer.
A pup under six months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time. If you have to be away from home for more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. Don't give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on him whenever he's indoors. For a small pup you will have to look out for elimination every two hours, after each meal and play. Some things you can do are:
- Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take him outside to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.
- Praise your puppy generously every time he eliminates outdoors immediately after he's finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house. This step is crucial, because this is the only way he'll know what's expected of him.
- Pick a spot and always take your puppy to that spot using a leash. Take him out for a longer walk or some playtime only after he has eliminated.
- If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot. The smell will help your puppy identify the area as the place he is supposed to eliminate.
- While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like "go potty," that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him what to do.
Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and feed a high-quality diet to make housetraining easier. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that he'll eliminate at consistent times as well, and that makes housetraining easier for both of you. Housetraining a puppy requires a lot of vigilance, patience, and plenty of commitment. Never punish a pup if an accident happens, dogs don’t understand punishment, even if it’s only seconds later after the accident. Punishment will do more harm than good.

Health Problems In Cats

It may come as a surprise, if you're a new cat owner, that many health problems may befall your feline friend. Some problems are easily preventable, while others are hereditary.HairballsHairballs are among the most common of cat health problems. Cats groom themselves almost constantly, and swallow the loose hair that comes off their tongues. Occasionally, the hair gathers into a ball and lodges in the cat's digestive tract instead of passing on through the body. If your cat starts coughing and hacking, he probably has a hairball. While the end product is unpleasant for the owner, most cats don't have a problem dislodging hairballs. However, hairballs can occasionally pass into a cat's intestines and cause a blockage. This can be a life-threatening problem. There are a few signs to look for to see if your cat's hairball is dangerous. If your cat is constipated, off his feed, or is lethargic with a dull coat, then he could have a serious blockage. A vet exam is definitely in order.To prevent hairballs, groom your cat frequently to remove loose hair. In addition, feed your cat food that helps control hairballs.WormsFor many cats, worms are a recurring problem. Roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms most commonly infect cats. Cats can occasionally develop heartworms, as well. If your cat seems unable to gain wait, is infested with fleas, or has white specks that look like grains of rice in his stools, take him to the veterinarian for worm testing.Worms are easily cured with a few doses of medication, but if left untreated, they can be fatal.Urinary Tract InfectionsUrinary tract infections are another common health problem in cats. This infection is particularly common in unneutered male cats, although female cats can also develop this problem. If your cat suddenly stops using the litter box, a urinary tract infection is suspect. If your cat's urine smells strong, again a urinary tract infection may be the cause. These infections need to be treated by a veterinarian. Ask about cat foods that reduce the likelihood of another infection.Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)FIP is caused by a mutation of the corona virus. According to some experts, cats living in multi-cat environments tend to test positive for enteric corona virus. Cats can live with that virus remaining quietly in the intestines with no sign of disease for their entire lifetime. In other cases, probably a genetic pre-disposition, the virus mutates into FIP.Once a cat has contracted FIP, it will display symptoms of a mild upper respiratory infection: sneezing, watery eyes, and nasal discharge. It may also have diarrhea, weight loss and lethargy. Most cats fully recover from this primary infection, although some may become virus carriers. A small percentage of exposed cats develop lethal FIP weeks or even years after the primary infection.Feline Immunodeficiency VirusFIV, or cat AIDS, is not always fatal. FIV decreases the ability of the cat's immune system to fight infections. Cats with FIV may remain free of symptoms for years. It is when the cat contracts other illnesses in the chronic stage of FIV infection that FIV is first suspected. This long list of illnesses includes oral-cavity infections, upper-respiratory infections, weight loss, ear infections, kidney disease, and many others. Although there is, as yet, no vaccine, all cats should be tested for the virus. The virus is transmitted through saliva, usually when a cat is bitten in a cat fight.Feline Leukemia VirusFLV was, until recently, the most common fatal disease of cats. But with a vaccine now available, the number of cases is dwindling. Although the name leukemia means cancer of the white blood cells, this is only 1 of the many diseases associated with this virus, such as other types of cancer, anemia, arthritis and respiratory infections. FLV is preventable if the cat is immunized before being exposed to the virus. Although the disease is not always immediately fatal, cats with FLV rarely have a long life expectancy. NEVER bring other cats into your household when you have a cat with FLV.Lyme DiseaseIf your cat spends time outdoors, you should check him regularly for ticks. If you find a tick on your cat's body and he has been lethargic and acts as if he is in pain, ask your vet to test for Lyme Disease. This disease is transmitted to people and animals by deer ticks.Some cats may show subtle symptoms while others may show none -- symptoms are hard to recognize and often may be confused with other illnesses or old age. Be observant of your pet's behavior. It is the only way to know if your pet has contracted Lyme disease if no tick was found. Some symptoms of Feline Lyme Disease include:(a) lethargy,(b) reluctance to jump or climb stairs,(c) limping, or reluctance to put weight on a paw,(d) loss of appetite.The key to dealing with Feline Lyme Disease is prevention and early diagnosis and treatment. You should reduce the tick population around your home with simple landscape changes and spraying.Good Health CareTaking your cat for a regular check-up with the vet, and keeping all vaccinations on schedule will help assure your cat a long and healthy life. Prevention is the first line of defense for most feline illnesses. Many owners keep their cats indoors to protect them from cars, from cat fights which may expose them to deadly viruses, from ticks, and other hazards.Outdoor cats will enjoy greater freedom, but require a watchful eye, loving attention to their health status, and regular visits to the veterinarian.

Keep Halloween candy from pets

DAYTON, Ohio, Oct. 30 (UPI) -- Halloween can be hazardous for U.S. family pet dogs or cats if they dip into the candy supply or from costumes.
"Many pet owners like to include their dog or cat in their Halloween celebrations," says Dan Carey, a veterinarian with The Iams Company. "Sadly, in the process, many owners do their four-legged friends a great disservice by dressing them in uncomfortable costumes -- 66 percent of owners dress their pets for Halloween -- or giving them rich, non-nutritional treats."
Carey suggests: keeping Halloween candy out of reach because chocolate can be especially toxic to pets; disposing of candy wrappers in the trash because a pet could eat them -- and some wrappings, such as foil, could cut the animals. Contact a veterinarian if it's suspected a pet has eaten wrappers, said Carey.
Carey also recommends bringing outdoor pets indoors because some trick-or-treaters can take mischief too far -- and nervous or aggressive pets should be kept away from children. Dogs taken along trick-or-treating should be on a leash because even the tamest dog can get excited during Halloween

Bloat in dogs

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.
Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.
For more information on the early signs of bloat, talk with your veterinarian. Ask what treatment he/she recommends for bloat, and if their hospital has a 24-hour emergency service.
Article courtesy of Larry Glickman, VMD, DrPh
BLOAT (DILATATION VOLVULUS) - Bruce Fogel DVMBloat (dilatation) followed by stomach rotation (stomach torsion) is a lifethreatening condition. Partial or complete rotation prevents food from entering or leaving the stomach. The abdomen swells. The affected dog may drool, retch, wander restlessly, become listless, or show signs of pain. Shock quickly develops.Bloat is an acute condition with a high fatality rate even for dogs that receive immediate medical attention. Early diagnosis and swift surgical intervention, combined with aggressive medical therapy, increases the chances of survival. This condition, however, is as serious as it gets.DIAGNOSIS - X-rays will confirm the diagnosis. An affected dog may be just uncomfortable or in advanced lifethreatening shock. Reducing pressure inside the stomach is vital. If a tube cannot be passed down the esophagus. your vet will insert a large-diameter needle through the abdominal wall directly into the stomach
TREATMENT - Emergency therapy with fluids, corticosteroids, antibiotics, drugs to control related heart arrhythmias, and drugs to limit the release of large quantities of tissue-damaging tree radicals starts immediately.At the same time, surgery is used to rotate the stomach back and to secure it down into its normal position. The spleen, because it acts as a pendulum and is often damaged by a gastric rotation, is usually (although probably needlessly) removed.PREVENTION - If you have a dog that is known to be at risk of bloat (see description at bottom), you can take steps to prevent the problem. Limit water consumption for an hour before or after each meal. Do not allow the dog to drain the bowl of its contents: water should be consumed in moderate quantities. Do not allow rolling or other exercise after meals.

Dividing food into small meals has not been shown to reduce the risk of further bloating.
BREEDS AT RISKThe risk of bloat runs in families. Middle-sized, large, or giant breeds with deep, narrow chests are most at risk from this condition.

Breeds at risk of bloat include:
• Doberman Pinscher
• Gordon Setter (above)
• Great Dane (top)
• Irish Setter
• Irish Wolfhound
• Standard Poodle
• Weimaraner

Epileptic pets can still be compassionate loving companions

Among all the diseases I encounter in my practice, one of the most notable is epilepsy. For most owners, the sight of their pet having an epileptic seizure is a traumatic experience that will cause them to be anxious about their pet's future. Fortunately many dogs with epilepsy can have their condition adequately controlled with the appropriate medication. Epilepsy is one of the many diseases that can cause seizures and should be distinguished from other conditions and problems such as hypoglycemia, liver problems, poisoning, heart problems, infection and neoplasia. The use of blood tests, radiology, electrocardiogram, ultrasound, MRI and other tests help the veterinarian rule out other conditions similar to epilepsy.An epileptic seizure is preceded by the aura, a stage in which the pet senses that the seizure is about to take place. The owner might notice a change in his pet's behaviour, as it may try to hide from or stay close to the owner, complain or become aggressive. After these preliminary signs the seizure itself, called ictus will take place. The dog will become unconscious and fall on its side. Its legs will become rigid and paddling movements can be seen. Many dogs will tend to urinate or defecate at this stage. Although the seizure seems to last a long time, it usually does not exceed two or three minutes. During the post-ictal period, the dog will become confused and disoriented. It can also pace or even become blind for a while. In between episodes the pet will appear normal both physically and mentally.
During the crisis, or ictus, care should be taken to prevent the pet from hurting itself. Remove furniture in close proximity to your pet and prevent the animal from falling downstairs. Do not try to put your hands in its mouth as you can be bitten very badly. Should your pet ever experience such episodes you should have it examined promptly to determine if epilepsy is the problem. If epilepsy is diagnosed the medical approach taken will depend on the frequency and intensity of the seizures.
Many drugs are available to control epilepsy and are used when epileptic seizures become too frequent or intense, but one should not expect the medication to cure the problem. The goal of the therapy is to reduce the intensity, frequency and duration of the seizures. Controlling epilepsy usually means lifelong treatment. The assiduity and regularity with which the owner gives his dogs its medication is extremely important. By giving the appropriate medication at the right dosage, for most pets, the condition will be well-controlled. An epileptic pet which has its condition under control will remain a very appreciated member of the family.


Article courtesy of Dr. Bernier Montreal West Veterinary Hospital