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TEN THINGS YOUR DOG WANTS YOU TO KNOW

If your dog could talk, these are some of most important things she would like to tell you...
1 - My life will probably only last 7 to 14 years. It will hurt me more than you know if I have to be away from you for longer than a day or two.
2 - If you have patience with me and give me time to learn what you would like from me, I can promise you, you will never be disappointed.
3 - Trust me with your life and have faith in our future together. If I don't feel that you honestly believe in me, I will suffer great emotional stress. My sense of self-worth is totally dependent upon your confidence in me.
4 - Don’t stay mad at me for long or confine me to a cage to punish me. You have your friends, your job, and your recreation. I HAVE ONLY YOU!
5 - Talk to me about anything you want as frequently as possible. Even if I can’t comprehend your precise words, I can understand the meaning of what you’re telling me by the tone of your voice.
6 - Remember no matter how you treat me, I will NEVER forget it.
7 - When you consider raising your hand to hit me, remember I have teeth that could break the bones in your hand, but I choose not to bite you.
8 - Before you scream at me for failing to respond to your commands as I usually do, take time to think about what might be wrong with me that would cause me to treat you differently. Maybe I haven’t been eating right or drinking enough water. Or maybe my age is catching up with me and I just can’t do what I used to do.
9 - Take good care of me when I get old. Someday you will be as old as me and you will see how it feels.
10 - Be there for me through good times and bad. Never say you can’t handle taking me to the vets for stitches or surgery. Nothing could make me feel worse. Everything in my life is easier for me to deal with when I have you standing by my side. Remember my love for you is unconditional and it will last for your entire life.

Bloat in dogs

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.
Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.

Pet Ownership - To be read prior to getting an animal

I have written this in the hopes that people will read it and learn from some of the experiences I have learnt from. I realise that the majority of the regulars on this website will already follow this simple guide, and I know they encourage others to follow suit. This is aimed at people searching for information or for those who are in need of a little education and guidance.
I don't think there should be a distinction in the size of the animal, an animal is an animal no matter what the size and they still depend on you for all of their needs, basic and otherwise.
Before buying a pet there are a number of things that need to be thought about -
1) The initial cost of the pet
2) The initial cost of the pets' necessary belongings e.g. house, cage, bed, bowls, bottles, toys.
3) The cost of food for that pet - remember this is a daily/weekly cost
“One way I’ve found to keep the costs of pets needs (i.e. bedding, food,) is by buying in bulk, if you buy a lot it can last through the hard times which happens every now and again where one is short of money.” Nula
4) The cost of litter for that pet - this is also a weekly cost
5) If your animal should become ill (no matter what the animal is or it's size) then you should be prepared to take it to a vet - it doesn't matter what time of the day or night your pet becomes ill it should be taken to the vet. If your child becomes ill you take it to the doctors thus if your pet becomes ill you take it to the vet. The excuse of having no money does not wash. Before you got the pet you should have thought about it. Vets cost money, it's a fact of life - you knew this prior to getting the pet and if you didn't think then that you could afford vets fees in a worst-case scenario then why did you get the pet?
6) The taming of an animal is different in every case - some animals will be tamed some won't, they are all different. Think seriously about this - the animal you get may not want to be tamed - it may be content just doing it's own thing in it's own space. This does not mean that your animal is unhappy. However just because you can't teach your pet to do the washing up, vacuuming or play the piano does not give you licence to return it to the shop, have it euthanased, send it to a rescue home or even sell it. Patience and information about the animal will help you to understand it’s behaviours, although some behaviours will never be fully understood (I’m thinking along the lines of bar biting here)
7) Getting rid of one animal after it's novelty has worn off does not mean that you can now go get another animal - if you weren’t able look after your previous animal then think seriously about owning another pet. Animals rely on you for everything.
8) Some pets can live for a long time – upwards of 15 years, you have to be prepared to look after the animal for this length of time. Pets are for life, not just for Christmas or until the novelty wears off. They have to be looked after as well as you would look after one of your family members. In my house my pets come first and people come second.
9) What will happen to your pet when you go on holiday? Kennel fees can be expensive – even for small animals, however relatives and friends can not always be trusted to provide the same level of care as you do. There are some people I know that I wouldn’t trust with a book, never mind a living, breathing creature!
10) I can appreciate that at the time of buying a pet the owner may be in a position to look after it for the rest of it's life, and sadly circumstances change, i.e. losing their job etc. However I don't believe the animal should suffer because of this, there are schemes whereby you can pay for treatment on a weekly/monthly basis, there are places like the PDSA - Peoples Dispensary for Sick Animals who will treat your animal for a minimal donation upon receipt of benefits books or proof of low income (I assume that there is something similar in the USA/Canada etc). There is also ways and means of saving for possible future emergencies - I previously worked in a bar and averaged approximately £10 in tips per night, these tips were not guaranteed but they went straight into my 'ham-jar' (tastes better than jam ) and after a few months of working I now have enough money to cover just about any emergency Willo could possibly have. Incidently I have now stopped working in the bar and my way of funding the ham jar has changed to my loose change being thrown in to a tin. I have also never heard of a vet charging for advice given over the phone although that may be different in the USA/Canada.
“* Check out which vet(s) available BEFORE getting an animal or at least before it gets sick. This will save a lot of agony if an emergency arises and you won't have to spend valuable time to find someone to help you.
* Also check if animal health insurance is available. Here in Sweden it is and I have chosen to get both Doris and Smulan insured so that if worse comes to worse I know that I can give them the treatment that they need. If anyone is curious about Swedish small animal insurance here is some information: Cost $25 per year First $60 of an illness (one or more visits) I have to pay myself, and also 10% of the cost above that amount. Since an emergency visit costs at least $100 the insurance will pay at least part of any visit to the vet. Most major vet centres can reduce the fee with the insurance amount right away but at some smaller practices I will have to pay in full and then get a refund from the insurance company afterwards.There are no age limits for the animals as long as they are healthy when you sign up. No health check by a vet is required. Although there is a 30 day "quarantine" period for an illness but accidents are included from day one.” Mimmi
11) If you are a parent thinking of getting your child an animal then please think about this, if you are a child or young person (by that I mean under the age of 18 - legally recognised as an adult in the UK) then you too need to think about the above and also get your parents or guardian to think about the above. If you are dependent upon your parents for everything related to the animal then ultimately it is your parents decision, and generally that decision is final, however try to discuss this decision in a rational manner if it is not the decision you expected, write down the pros and cons, your feelings if you can't discuss things rationally. If you think for one minute you would not be able to afford such things for your pet then please don't get one.
12) Ask as many questions about the animal you wish to acquire, ask them to as many different people as possible so you can glean as much information as possible – I find that owners of the animals you wish to get are generally the best people to speak to, vets can be a good source of information (depending upon the pet and the vet’s specialist area), the R.S.P.C.A/A.S.P.C.A (and other equivalents) also have fountains of knowledge. The information is out there – you just need to find it. You should never be embarrassed about asking what seems to be the most trivial of questions – if you don’t ask you will never know, and that could result in harm coming towards your beloved pet.
13) Breeding. Before allowing your animals to breed, think about what you are going to do with the offspring. If you are lucky enough to be able to keep them all then that is fantastic, however if you aren’t lucky enough to keep all of the offspring then what happens to them? Can you guarantee good homes? Will you provide a level of guarantee (i.e. you’ll gladly have the animal back if the new owner has any problems)? Will you provide information for new owners regarding their new pet? Will you be able to check out these new owners in so far as their knowledge of care? Is the store you plan on taking them to good with their current animals (i.e. are their cages suitable, do they have the correct food, are they clean etc?)
I apologise for any upset this thread causes but I have tried to structure it so it is more educational than ranting (thank you to those who helped). It is not meant as a dig at any one person, I have just noticed over the last few months that certain things appear to be common place and seem to be accepted as being ok – some things horrify me.
Thank you for taking the time to read such a long article and please feel free to add any ideas you may have, especially regarding saving money, or paying for treatments. The more ideas we get and the more educational resources we provide the more chance animals have of being looked after as they should be.
Thank you to those who have already contributed to this article.

Why Rabbits and Guinea Pigs Do Not Mix

This question has come up a lot recently in both the rabbit and guinea pig forums. So here is the long and full blown answer.
Diet
Guinea Pigs cannot create their own Vitamin C, therefore their pelleted diet needs to enriched with Vitamin C. Rabbits can produce their own Vitamin C so the diet is lacking extra Vitamin C therefore it is unsuitable for guinea pigs. Both rabbit and guinea pig pellet diets are made to suit the individual diets of both different species, therefore, mixing these diets or feeding to the wrong species will mean the diet then lacks vital vitamins and minerals.
Language
Guinea pigs use both body and vocal language. Rabbits cannot understand the vocal side of things, therefore the rabbit finds this frustrating. Rabbits are not very vocal at all, and they rely on body language to communicate. A lot of this is shown with the ears. As guinea pigs ears are not as big, or flexible, the piggy cannot understand the rabbit. This leaving the pig frustrated.
So, why do they understand humans then? Well, although it appears that they learn what words mean, this is probably more of an association with the sound we make. And if rewarded with a treat, the will respond to this. when we stroke our pets, it is like grooming, therefore making your pet feel good about itself.
Fighting
This is often the result of the communication difficulties between the two species. They simply cannot understand each other. The frustration can then lead to fights. These fights are not all one sided. Both the rabbit and the pig could end up bitten or scratched and seriously hurt. If a wound turns into an abscess it can be fatal, as can bites and scratches.
There is also the fact that rabbits have strong hind legs. When a rabbit gets excited, it performs an act called a "binky" (the equivalent of a guinea pig "pop corning") where the rabbit bounds to the air and kicks out. Rabbits also kick out on the take off to run fast. An unsuspecting piggy can get caught in the way and receive a nasty blow. This can seriously injure or kill the pig.
Sexual Frustration
While rabbits are not sexually attracted to guinea pigs, it does not stop them trying to hump the pig. This can be very annoying to the pig, as it is a form of bullying. When sexually frustrated, rabbits often nip and bite the victim of their frustration. A sexually frustrated rabbit will find anything suitable as a mate, a human, and guinea pig, a cuddly toy. Even furniture.
Can you stop any of the above?
The only prevention is not housing your rabbit with a guinea pig. There is no fix to all of the above problems that will almost definitely occur.
Pet Shops
So your now asking why do pet shops house rabbits and guinea pigs together. The answer, I don’t know. Probably because during a stay in a pet shop the staff feel the animals are too young to be affected by this, this is incorrect. The other possible explanation is because the stay in the store is so short. This is no excuse either.Pet shops who choose to house rabbits and pigs together are setting a bad example, and this is probably where most of the associations of keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together route from.
Conclusion
Don’t do it.Guinea pigs live with guinea pigs, rabbits live with rabbits. Of course, it is not that simple, but the bonding of pigs and pigs and rabbits and rabbits is a different topic completely, which can wait for another day.
Prevention is better than cure, therefore, prevent fatal accidents and huge vet bills by keeping these species separate.