Pets World

About African Grey Parrots

2006-10-08T10:58:00.000-07:00

The African Grey Parrot comes from a broad area of Central Africa. P.e. Erithacus being the nominate race, the Congo African Grey. P.e. Timneh more commonly called Timneh African Grey. Given the appropriate nutritional requirements in a nurturing home, African Grey's can have a lifespan of 50-70 years.
The Congo African Grey Parrot is a medium grey bird with shades of light grey on the body. The feathers on the head have brushed white edging. The eye area is of bare white skin. A solid black beak and bright red tail are the finishing touches to this magnificent parrot. Young CAG's have dark grey tips on their tail feathers. They are also known as the "Red Tailed Grey". They vary in from 12-14" from beak to tail, also can vary in weight between 400-650 grams depending on the frame of the individual bird.
Greys from Nigeria usually have dark grey wings. CAG's from the Congo region are, on average, larger in size. On occasion you might see a Grey with red feathering throughout the body - they are known as "Red Factor Greys".
The Timneh African Grey Parrot is a dark grey bird with shades of light grey on the body. The eye area is of bare white skin. They have a "bone" colored upper mandible and a dark maroon tail. The Timneh is smaller in size ranging from 9-11 inches beak to tail. Also TAG's can vary in weight from 275-400 grams.
The CAG and TAG as a baby parrots will have dark grey to black eyes up until they are roughly 6 months of age when their eye color starts to lighten. By the time they reach a year, their eyes become a pale grey color. At about 1.5 to 2 yrs their eyes will turn a pale straw color. And lastly at about 3-4 years of age, they will have a light yellow iris. This is one way to be able to determine an estimate of how old a baby is when visiting bird stores. Grey's usually reach maturity at about 4-5 years of age.
Note: When speaking in context of African Grey's; I am referring to both the Congo and the Timneh species. The only difference between the two species is their physical appearance.
The most common phrase I have heard regarding African Grey's is "the perfect mix of brains and beauty". I often hear people say African Grey's are not as "colorful" as most parrots. They apparently have not seen the true personality of an African Grey Parrot. They have a remarkable, noble beauty that takes your breath away!
African Grey's have the most extraordinary flair for speech. But do not think that they are limited to speech only! They can mimic almost any sound in your home. Although most greys do not start talking until a year in age, there are many cases where they will speak earlier. Some greys do not start speaking until 2 years, so never give up hope! They have the capacity to have a vocabulary of over 2000 words. I would like to add this "food for thought"... there is no guarantee that a Grey will speak. This should never be the sole reason for buying a grey. (Please see our Talking Article.) There is so much more to an african grey than just speech. a They are more human than some will admit. They feel our emotions and act accordingly. They do not mimic, they learn from us. Speaking in sentences, responding appropriately to questions, the physical motions to comfort us when we are sad, the list goes on and on.
African Grey's have the intellectual capacity of a 5 year old child with the emotions of a 2 year old. Because of this higher intelligence, they can be demanding pets and rightly so. They require constant attention along with a stimulating environment that includes various types of toys, a large cage, a play-stand.
Generally speaking, Greys are cautious birds. They have a tendency to sit back and watch you before giving themselves up freely. They tend to not be very outgoing towards strangers. Then are very intuitive to your feelings and it is always best to approach them with a calm demeanor. Once you win the trust of an African Grey, he/she will be your best friend for life. They are very dedicated and loyal birds.
My greys are very outgoing and playful in our home environment. Our home is their "safe place". They realize nothing will harm them here. My birds love to boisterously and acrobatically attack their toys. You have never seen a parrot play until you have first handedly seen a Grey scream bloody murder at their toys! The infamous Grey scream, it is an experience you will not forget.
In sum... although African Greys are the most popular pet parrot, they are not for everyone. They stand apart from the rest. It is not easy being a caretaker of an African Grey or any parrot for that matter. Lots of love, time, patience and effort goes into the relationship we have with our avian companions. They give us so much more than we can ever return.... Are you ready to take the African Grey challenge?

Your Attitude Is Important When Dog Training

2006-10-08T10:56:00.001-07:00

There is nothing more critical to the success of dog training than the owner’s attitude. The mindset of the trainer is more important than the equipment purchased, the exact system used, or the breed of dog involved. Nothing can destroy the likelihood of effective training more quickly than an owner with the wrong outlook on the training process.Dogs naturally crave and enjoy human companionship. When their human companions approach them in the right way, they are particularly receptive to learning and develop a strong desire to act in a manner that will please their master.

This is why a proper attitude is exceedingly important with respect to training dogs. When the owner is pleasant, the dog will be pleasant. When the owner is excited about teaching, the dog will most likely be excited about learning. Dogs can often reflect the attitudes and dispositions of their owners, a fact that must be kept in mind while undertaking dog training.Additionally, the proper outlook on dog training can make the experience infinitely more enjoyable for the owner. A pleasant training experience will naturally produce better instruction on the part of the trainer. Again, proper attitude will pay training dividends.So, what is the right attitude to bring to dog training? Owners should strive to maintain a positive perspective at all times and should strive for a mood that makes the process fun for both the dog and the trainer. Failure to approach training with such an attitude risks disaster.

The proper attitude and perspective truly is the prerequisite to training success.The owner should be positive. A positive perspective, of course, works in conjunction with any quality training method. Effective training requires positive reinforcement, and that kind of praise and affection is best administered by someone who generally presents a positive attitude. Training will be filled with compliments, encouragement and praise. Those rewards, which are the key component to training, are more likely to be appropriately and effectively administered by a trainer with a positive disposition.Trainers should recognize that they can manage to be both firm and friendly at the same time. It is not necessary to affect an angry or severe tone during the training process. These caricatures of displeasure do not offer any more training value than utilization of a simple serious tone. A lower tone with a serious “bite” is more than enough. When praising and instructing, the owner must remember to use a very friendly and happy voice. The dog will thrive knowing his owner enjoys their interaction so much and will be very motivated to learn as a result.Most importantly the trainer must always remember that dog training is supposed to be fun. It should be fun for the trainer and just as fun for the pet. The idea is to make the training process exciting and enjoyable for the pet as is possible. By making the process a treat, the dog is especially motivated to perform.Too often training becomes nothing more than a mandatory task.

The owner does not relish the opportunity to spend time with his or her dog. The dog understands this and does not get excited at the prospect, either. In worse cases, training becomes an undesirable chore. The negative disposition and attitude of the owner is sensed clearly by the dog and mirrored. Training progress stalls, frustration sets in, and the whole process becomes further crippled.The cliché that “attitude is everything” really does describe dog training. A negative or harsh attitude will crush hopes of success. A positive perspective coupled with friendliness and a sense of fun will make training a treat.A fun disposition also makes training more enjoyable for the dog owner.

The trainer’s positive attitude creates a more positive disposition for the pet, which in turn improves the trainer’s outlook even more. By starting the training process with a solid positive attitude, the owner gets the ball rolling, so to speak. The end result can be a training experience that is enjoyed by both pet and owner, which is sure to create amazing results. By approaching training with a positive disposition, a dog owner can produce surprising and positive outcomes.

How To Teach An Old Dog New Tricks

2006-10-08T10:53:00.000-07:00

Common knowledge and witticism tells a person that old dogs are incapable of learning new behaviors as is often bespoken in the adage, “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks”. Despite the numbers of people who would proclaim this decree to be solid truth, we are here to tell you that it nowhere near the being an accurate description of the truth. While it is a little more difficult for an older dog to be trained, it is entirely within the realm of possibility if one uses patience and remains consistent in the dog’s lessons throughout the process.

The first step in training an older dog is remembering that this dog has, most likely, already been trained once, be it properly or improperly. The older dog already has preconceived notions as to what acceptable behaviors are and what behaviors are not welcome. If you wish to change one of these behaviors you have to reprogram the dogs thinking process. For instance, a farm dog may have been trained to protect the barnyard and chase stray animals and predators away from the barn. Unfortunately, the dog now lives in your townhouse and thinks your cat is its mortal enemy. We have to reprogram the dogs thinking to make it understand that chasing the cat is not acceptable. So how would we handle this situation? To start, make certain that the cat will be safe by placing the cat in a pet carrier or some other sturdy structure that prohibits the dog from actually physically contacting the animal but still allows for both animals to see, smell and hear each other.

This provides a way for both animals to acclimate to each other in a safe, though possibly a bit stressful, situation. This small step teaches the dog and cat that both are going to have a presence in the home.After the animals have both calmed a bit give them each a small reward, such as a piece of kibble. Be sure to give the dog lots of verbal praise and affection when it is not barking or trying to get to the cat as this reinforces his good behavior. These rewards are quite important in teaching older dogs as they help to retrain their minds that this behavior is good and is rewarded, thus making them want to repeat the behavior.

This will also show the dog that you are accepting of the cat’s presence and you expect him to be accepting of the animal also. Repeat this process several times over the course of a week or so, until both animals seem fairly accustomed to the presence of the other and their aggressions seem to have subsided. At this point, you are ready to move on to the next step. This step will require an assistant to help with one of the animals. Have the assistant leash the dog and hold him firmly on a very short leash. After instructing the assistant to maintain control of the dog, open the pet carrier and bring the cat out carefully. Your dog will likely move towards the cat so be sure the assistant has him held tightly and be careful not to let the cat panic and escape your grasp. Gradually bring them closer together and let them calmly adapt to each others presence. Repeat this step several times over the next few days and by the end of the week, these two animals should be like old chums.Through this exercise, we see the basics of teaching an old dog something new. It involves first recognizing the dog’s previous training and then deciding what is applicable and what needs changed.

Then reinforcing the good parts of the dog’s behavior with plenty of positive rewards and verbal praise while restricting or redirecting the parts of the behavior you want to stop. We also see that it is necessary to change the behavior in small steps rather than a complete change all at one time. This serves to help the older dog by not confusing him totally. With small steps the animal feels that it is learning new tricks rather than a complete behavior modification. This also allows you to spot trouble before it grows to large to handle. It also is essential to exercise patience and be consistent so that you may indeed teach your old dog some brand new tricks.

How To Teach Your Dog To Eliminate On Command

2006-10-03T03:57:00.000-07:00

Teaching your dog to defecate or urinate on command is actually hust a process of creating an association.The command I use is, "Get Busy."

But you can use any word or phrase that you please.You're probably wondering why anyone would want to teach their dog an elimination command. And probably the best answer to this question is that it enables you to establish both a time and a place for your dog to eliminate.For example, if you decide to go to bed early, and you don't want your dog to be uncomfortable for the next 7 or 8 hours, you can very easily take him outside and tell him to "do it now," because, "You won't have a chance to do it later since I'm going to bed."Having an elimination command also allows you to tell your dog WHERE he should urinate or defecate. For example, if you're taking your pup for a stoll and he indicates that he needs to eliminate...

you don't want him to merely stop and do his business in the middle of the sidewalk. What an elimination command allows you to do is to walk the dog over to some bushes, or behind a building and tell him, "Here! Here is where you can 'get busy.'"How to teach the "Get Busy" commandJust like with any other command, your goal is to associate the phrase, "Get busy," with the action of either defecating or urinating.Here's what you need to do in 5 easy steps:

1.) Take note of the usual times your dog needs to defecate or urinate.

2.) Take him to the usual spot where he likes to eliminate and walk him back and forth, repeating the phrase, "Get busy, get busy, get busy."

3.) When he begins to eliminate, continue saying, "Get busy." After five or six different occasions, your command will start to link with the behavior.

4.) A half second after he finishes, praise him.

5.) Repeat this process every time your dog needs to eliminate, and you'll soon find that he will begin to understand and at least make an attempt to evacuate the contents of his bladder on command.That's all for now, folks!AdamDogproblems.com

Training your dog at home

2006-09-30T04:32:00.000-07:00

Training at Home – Part 1 Putting Together a 5-minute Training Session

Training Tips

Much of the training you do at home will occur during every day interactions with your dog. For example, when your dog jumps up, you should turn your back, fold your arms and reward him with attention only when all four of his feet are on the floor. Be conscious of all your interactions with your dog! Make an effort to reward behavior you like and avoid rewarding behavior you don’t like.

In addition, devoting a few minutes a day to a training session is invaluable. Many of the techniques we are teaching in class require you to develop new skills, such as timing, reading your dog and simultaneously juggling clicker, treats and leash. The ultimate goal, besides a better-behaved dog, is for you and your dog to learn to communicate effectively. Training sessions allow you and your dog to focus exclusively on each other. For this week, try to build a habit of at least one short training session per day.

Rules for training at home:
* One trainer and one dog at a time.
* Be prepared. Have your rewards, such as soft stinky treats, ready and decide what you are going to work on before you begin.
* Set your dog up to win. Progress comes from building on successes.
* If your dog is not “getting it,” change something you are doing.
* Keep it short, keep it happy and always end on a high note.
A session that ends with both of you happy is a successful session!
Putting Together a 5-minute Training Session How to get started:
* Find a place to train where you and your dog can be alone. Spectators are allowed only if they promise to sit down and be quiet. Other dogs in your home should wait their turn outside the training area.
* Get your treats ready. Positive reinforcement methods require positive reinforcements. Treats should be small, soft and something your dog is willing to work for. You can put treats in a bowl on a table, put them in your pocket or in a fanny pack.
* Pick a few behaviors to work on before you begin and decide what you will click for. Help your dog choose the behavior you want, by luring or by limiting his choices, and reward him when he gets it right. He can’t succeed if you’re not clear in your own mind on what you want. On the other hand, be ready to ask for an easier behavior if your lure fails or if he never offers the behavior you have in mind. For your next training session, pick different behaviors to work on. This keeps it interesting for both you and your dog. Avoid making training sessions into repetitive exercise drills.
* Set your dog up to win. Click and treat frequently to keep your dog in the game; the learning comes when he is getting it right. If you do not get an opportunity to click and treat within 30 seconds or a minute, ask for an easier behavior. Then assess what is wrong (see below) and try to fix it. Repeated failures, such as when your dog is not responding to your first cue, may establish a pattern in the dog’s mind of behavior you don’t want.
* Keep it short, keep it happy and always end on a high note. A good training session has a beginning, a middle and an end. Begin with a few easy behaviors your dog already knows, so you can give a few clicks and treats right away. Then spend a few minutes on learning a new behavior or improving an old one. End the session on a success – go back to a known behavior if you need to – then give a big reward and let your dog know the session is over. Following a training session with play, a meal or a walk is a nice plus.

The whole session may last less than 5 minutes - don’t keep going so long that your dog loses interest in the game. A tiny amount of progress in any individual session is all you need. Add up all the tiny steps and you will soon see very big changes.
If you are getting frustrated, try again later. Continuing will do more harm than good. What is most important is that both you and your dog enjoy the process, so you are motivated to train again the next day.
* Having problems? Does your dog seem anxious, confused or disinterested?
If anxious, don’t lean over your dog, use a softer tone of voice and don’t gesture or click right in his face.

If confused, make sure you click precisely when you see the behavior you want and that you click for the same behavior each time.
If disinterested, try better treats or a place with fewer distractions. Another possibility is that you need to improve your timing. Once your dog understands this is a game worth winning, he will be interested.
Training at Home – Part 2 Challenging Your Dog to Improve Performance and Reliability
Training Tips By this time, your dog can probably perform a few behaviors, such as “sit,” “touch” and “watch me,” some of the time. However, you’ve probably found that with any small change in the environment your dog may “forget” what he’s just learned. Teaching your dog the new behavior and its cue are only the first step. Your dog hasn’t truly mastered these new skills until he is able to perform reliably, which is at least 80 percent of the time, in the presence of distractions.
Training Procedure Mastering any new behavior usually involves these five steps:
1- Get the behavior, usually with a lure. 2 - Name the behavior, using a verbal cue or command. 3 - Change the lure to a hand signal, using a visual cue or command. 4- Make it a little harder, changing distance, duration, speed and precision, one aspect at a time and in small increments. 5 - Add distractions. Rules for Making It Harder * Make one aspect of behavior harder at a time and in small enough increments so that the dog will succeed frequently. * Temporarily make other aspects of the behavior easier.* Once she has it, make the other aspects harder again.
Example:
“Stay” – your dog will hold a stay for sixty seconds while you stand right next to him, but you want to increase the distance you can move away from him while he stays:
* Distance is the aspect of the behavior you are making harder and you need to increase the distance in small increments, so give your command and move one step away from the dog.
* Time is an aspect of the behavior you can make temporarily easier by decreasing the length of the stay to five seconds. Then, reward your dog for at least three or four five-second/one-step away stays.

* Now, gradually increase the time while you remain just one step away from the dog. Do this until he can stay for sixty seconds with you at a distance of one step. Note that it may take four or five sessions to work back up to a sixty-second stay at the one-step distance.
Adding Distractions * Temporarily make the behavior easier when introducing a new distraction.* Initially add small distractions that the dog is capable of ignoring.* Gradually increase the level of distraction.* Once he can easily resist the distraction, make the behavior harder again.
Challenging Your Dog to Improve Performance and Reliability Homework ExerciseLet’s say your dog will sit, but he stands and looks at you for several seconds before he sits and you are giving several cues. You’d like him to sit promptly on the first command.
First, perform the behavior a few times at the dog’s current level of performance and click and treat each successful sit, even if it’s very slow. Perform the behavior, “sit,” a few more times, but this time only give one cue and only click and treat your dog if he sits in 5 seconds or less. At this point, it doesn’t matter if he sits lopsided or not directly in front of you. Your only concern is time. If he sits but it takes him too long, speak to him with a happy voice, “that was a nice sit, but it doesn’t get a cookie.” Then, get him up and try again.

Soon you should see his average response time improving. Once he sits within five seconds, at least 80 percent of the time, decrease the time you give him to respond. Now reward him only when he sits in four seconds or less. Continue decreasing the time until you are getting an immediate response. Now put back any other requirements you have, such as sit directly in front of me, and only reward sits that are fast and straight.
Now you want to add distractions. For example, you have been training in the living room and your dog does great. Now you go to the backyard and children are playing across the street. Suddenly, your dog acts like he has never heard the word “sit.” If your dog is looking across the street and not at you, forget “sit” at the moment and try “watch me” a few times. When you have your dog’s attention, ask for a sit. Click and treat every sit, even if it’s slow and crooked.

If your dog is very distracted, you may need to go back to luring him into a sit, making the behavior easier. Keep the lesson short. You may want to give a big reward, the jackpot, when he gives you a good sit, then end the session. Remember, you always want to quit on a high note. The next time you train with children across the street, he will remember that paying attention to you is rewarding.
Improved performance and reliability will probably take many short sessions. That’s OK. A little progress each time is what keeps you coming back for your next session.
Examples of Distractions: * Change your body position. Stand at the dog’s side, sit down or stand three feet away from the dog. * Have another person in the room, ignoring the dog but doing something, such as talking or jumping up and down. * Go to different locations, such as the park, walking on the sidewalk or in pedestrian malls. * Go to an obedience class where you’ll find many distractions!* When your dog is doing a stay, tug GENTLY on the leash while repeating, “stay,” or using your hand signal for stay. You can also wave your arms, make odd noises or walk around your dog. Your dog learns to ignore everything except your release word, such as “free,” “okay” or “all done.”

why dogs wag their tails

2006-09-30T04:14:00.000-07:00

In some ways, tail-wagging serves the same functions as our human smile, polite greeting, or nod of recognition. Smiles are social signals, and human beings seem to reserve most of their smiles for social situations, where somebody is around to see them. Sometimes, vicarious social situations, as when watching television or occasionally when thinking about somebody special, can trigger a smile. For dogs, the tail wag seems to have the same properties. A dog will wag its tail for a person or another dog. It may wag its tail for a cat, horse, mouse, or perhaps even a butterfly.

But when the dog is by itself, it will not wag its tail to any lifeless thing. If you put a bowl of food down, the dog will wag its tail to express its gratitude to you. In contrast, when the dog walks into a room and finds its bowl full, it will approach and eat the food just as happily, but with no tail-wagging other than perhaps a slight excitement tremor. This is one indication that tail-wagging is meant as communication or language. In the same way that we don't talk to walls, dogs don't wag their tails to things that are not apparently alive and socially responsive.A dog's tail speaks volumes about his mental state, his social position, and his intentions. How the tail came to be a communication device is an interesting story.The dog's tail was originally designed to assist the dog in its balance. When a dog is running and has to turn quickly, it throws the front part of its body in the direction it wants to go.

Its back then bends, but its forward velocity is such that the hindquarters will tend to continue in the original direction. Left unchecked, this movement might result in the dog's rear swinging widely, which could greatly slow its rate of movement or even cause the dog to topple over as it tries to make a high-speed turn. The dog's tail helps to prevent this. Throwing the tail in the same direction that the body is turning serves as a sort of counterweight, which reduces the tendency to spin off course. Dogs will also use their tails when walking along narrow surfaces. By deliberately swinging the tail to one side or the other in the direction opposite to any tilt in the body, the dog helps maintain its balance, much the same way a circus tightrope walker uses a balance bar. Quite obviously, then, the tail has important uses associated with specific movements. However, the tail is not particularly important on flat surfaces, when a dog is simply standing around or walking at normal speeds.

At these times, it becomes available for other uses. Evolution again seized an opportunity and now adapted the tail for communication purposes.It is something of a surprise to many people to learn that puppies don't wag their tails when they are very young. The youngest puppy I ever saw systematically wagging its tail was eighteen days old, and both the breeder and I agreed that this was quite unusual. Although there are some differences among the various breeds, the scientific data suggests that, on average, by thirty days of age, about half of all puppies are tail wagging, and the behavior is usually fully established by around forty nine days of age.Why does it take so long for the puppy to start wagging its tail?

The answer comes from the fact that puppies begin wagging their tails when it is necessary for purposes of social communication. Until they are about three weeks of age, puppies mostly eat and sleep. They are not interacting significantly with their littermates other than curling up together to keep warm as they sleep or crowding together to nurse. They are physically capable of wagging their tails at this time, but they don't.By the age of six or seven weeks (when we start to see tail-wagging behaviors on a regular basis), the puppies are socially interacting with one another. Most of the social interactions in puppies consist of what psychologists call "play behaviors." It is through playing that puppies learn about their own abilities, how they can interact with their environment, and most important, how to get along with other individuals. A puppy learns that if it bites a littermate, it is apt to be bitten back, and perhaps the game it was playing might be terminated by its now angry playmate. It is at this point that the puppy also starts to learn dog language. It is not clear to what degree these emerging social communications are prewired, but learning is clearly needed to refine the use and interpretation of these signals. The pups learn to connect their own signals and the signals provided by their mother and their siblings with the behaviors that come next.

They also begin to learn that they can use signals to indicate their intentions and to circumvent any conflicts. This is where and when the tail-wagging behavior begins.One place where conflicts are likely to occur is during feeding. When a puppy wants to suckle its mother, it must come very close to its littermates as it crowds in to find her teats. Remember that this puppy is now coming close to the very same individuals that might have been nipping, jostling, or chasing him a few minutes earlier. To indicate that this is a peaceful situation, and to calm any fearful or aggressive response by the other puppies when they too are pushing toward the mother's teat, the puppy begins to wag its tail. Tail-wagging in the puppy then serves as a truce flag to its littermates. Later on, puppies will begin to wag their tails when they are begging food from the adult animals in their pack or family. The puppies come close, to lick the face of the adult, and they signal their peaceful intentions by tail-wagging. It thus becomes clear that the reason that very young puppies don't wag their tails is that they don't yet need to send appeasement signals to other dogs. When communication between dogs is needed, they rapidly learn the appropriate tail signals.Tail language actually has three different channels of information: position, shape, and movement. Movement is a very important aspect of the signal, since dog's eyes are much more sensitive to movement than they are to details or colors.

This makes a waving or wagging tail very visible to other dogs.Evolution has used a few additional tricks to make the tails even more visible. Wild canines, like wolves, often have great bushy tails, which are easily seen at a distance. In addition, many tails are specially colored to facilitate recognition of tail signals. Often, the underside of the tail is lighter, to make the high-tailed signals quite visibly different from signals involving the tucking of tails into a lower position. Many canines will also have distinctive markings to make the tail tip more visible. Usually, there is a lightening toward the tail tip, or perhaps simply a white mark which defines the tip of the tail. In other canines, the tail tip is noticeably darker. Either of these two color contrasts helps to make the end of the tail more visible, and this make movement and position cues easier to recognize...."

Dog licking - Why Dogs Lick

2006-09-30T04:13:00.000-07:00

As the puppies grow older, they begin to lick and clean themselves and their littermates. This mutual licking and grooming serves social functions. Obviously, it helps keep the puppies clean, but in the process it helps strengthen the bonds between the puppies. The actual mechanism that builds this affection is mutual satisfaction.

A puppy can have companions get at those hard-to-reach places, like ears and backs and faces, and can pay them back by licking their littermates in their inaccessible regions. Since friends and familiars groom friends and familiars as a considerate gesture, the very act of licking another dog develops significance as a means of communication. Licking thus shifts from being a utilitarian and useful act to becoming a ritualized gesture.

The meaning of this gesture at this time in a puppy's life involves goodwill and acceptance. In effect, each puppy is saying, "Look how friendly I am." As the puppy matures, the message sent by licking continues to be friendly but is widened to also mean, "I'm no threat," and perhaps the submissive plea, "Please accept me and be kind."Licking takes on a further meaning a bit later in the puppy's life, usually around the time that it is becoming less dependent on its mother's milk. In the wild, when a mother wolf returns from hunting, she will have already fed herself on her quarry. When she enters the den, the puppies gather around her and begin to lick her face. To a romantic, this may look like a loving greeting with all of the puppies overjoyed at mother's return after her absence of several hours. They are seen as simply kissing her in happiness and relief. The actual purpose of all of this face licking, however, is much more functional. Wild canines have a well-developed regurgitation reflex, and the puppies lick their mother's face and lips to cause her to vomit up some food.

It is most convenient for the mother to carry food in her stomach rather than trying to drag things back to the den in her mouth. Furthermore, this partially digested material makes ideal dining for young puppies.It is interesting to note that our domestic dogs actually have a reduced sensitivity for their regurgitation reflex in comparison to wolves or jackals. Puppy-induced regurgitation is not as often seen in dogs unless the pups are not being fed well. When it does occur, it is more likely to occur in sharp-faced breeds that appear to be more similar to wild canines, such as the wolf.Understanding the development of licking behavior helps to interpret another place where it occurs. Face licking in adult canines can be a sign of respect or deference to a more dominant dog. The dog doing the licking usually lowers its body to make itself smaller, and looks up, adding to the effect of juvenile behavior. The dog receiving the face licks shows its dominance by standing tall to accept the gesture, but does not lick the other dog in return.Now when your dog tries to lick your face, you should have a better idea of what he's trying to communicate. He may simply be hungry and asking for a snack. Obviously, you won't regurgitate some food at that signal, but you might respond affectionately and perhaps give him a treat, such as a dog biscuit.

He may be communicating submission and pacification-the adult version of goodwill in puppies. Basically, he is saying, "Look, I'm just like a puppy who is dependent on big adults like you. I need your acceptance and help." Alternatively, he may be showing respect and deference to you as a more dominant dog in his pack..."

Dog Bones

2006-09-30T04:12:00.000-07:00

Dogs eat non-digestible dirt, rocks, tampons, plastic squeaky toys, and rawhides. They vomit, choke, poop out foreign objects, sometimes need veterinary attention... these are real dogs in real life. One of my Rottweilers had to have 3 ft. of Christmas tinsel pulled out of his butt by a vet. I know a woman who lost her champion German shepherd because he choked to death on a tennis ball of all things. A neighbor's Cocker ate a sock resulting in an impaction that would have been the end of her without surgery. Every veterinarian you talk to will have stories of weird things ingested by dogs needing medical intervention - my old vet had an x-ray from a Labrador who ate an entire braided rug. Can dogs die from eating raw bones? Of course - they can die from eating just about all the other things eat too! There are risks , you can avoid completely, risks you can minimize, and risks you can accept only as a theoretical possibility. Just as every activity carries some risk, we are willing to accept risk when we feel it is minimal compared to the benefits. And feeding raw has huge benefits. Remember never feed cooked bones. These are not well digested by dogs and can splinter easily.
Raw meaty bones can be placed into categories;our RMB's that are part of a meal and are consumed entirely - or almost entirely - and RMB's are recreational that is bones that are chewed on, left, returned to, left and so on. Recreational bones for one dog may be a meal for another. Deciding which RMB's to feed depends on how your dog eats. Daphne, Dutch and Phoebe all chew their food thoroughly - so I feel comfortable giving them any kind of bones, even the large, weight-bearing bones.

Cooper gulps his down in a nanosecond. I call the chicken wings I feed him "sliders" because they slide right down his gullet in a single crunch. If your dog eats like Cooper , you can try encouraging him to slow down by holding one end of the food while the eats, or feeding separately from other dogs so he doesn't feel like he must inhale his food faster than everyone else! I often feed Cooper frozen or partially frozen RMB's because his forces him to chew a bit. Stay within your own comfort level with this. Some people smash the our RMB's with a hammer or meat-tenderizing tool first. And don't forget, grinding is always an adoption. This will eliminate any fears you have!

BLOAT (DILATATION VOLVULUS)

2006-09-30T04:11:00.000-07:00

Bloat (dilatation) followed by stomach rotation (stomach torsion) is a lifethreatening condition. Partial or complete rotation prevents food from entering or leaving the stomach. The abdomen swells. The affected dog may drool, retch, wander restlessly, become listless, or show signs of pain. Shock quickly develops.

Bloat is an acute condition with a high fatality rate even for dogs that receive immediate medical attention. Early diagnosis and swift surgical intervention, combined with aggressive medical therapy, increases the chances of survival.

This condition, however, is as serious as it gets.DIAGNOSIS - X-rays will confirm the diagnosis. An affected dog may be just uncomfortable or in advanced lifethreatening shock. Reducing pressure inside the stomach is vital. If a tube cannot be passed down the esophagus. your vet will insert a large-diameter needle through the abdominal wall directly into the stomach
TREATMENT - Emergency therapy with fluids, corticosteroids, antibiotics, drugs to control related heart arrhythmias, and drugs to limit the release of large quantities of tissue-damaging tree radicals starts immediately.At the same time, surgery is used to rotate the stomach back and to secure it down into its normal position.

The spleen, because it acts as a pendulum and is often damaged by a gastric rotation, is usually (although probably needlessly) removed.PREVENTION - If you have a dog that is known to be at risk of bloat (see description at bottom), you can take steps to prevent the problem. Limit water consumption for an hour before or after each meal. Do not allow the dog to drain the bowl of its contents: water should be consumed in moderate quantities. Do not allow rolling or other exercise after meals. Dividing food into small meals has not been shown to reduce the risk of further bloating.

Bloat in dogs

2006-09-30T04:07:00.000-07:00

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.

The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.

Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.

Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.

What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.

If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.

Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.

Article courtesy of Larry Glickman, VMD, DrPh

How To Select A Pet Dog

2006-09-28T16:34:00.000-07:00

Some key factors when selecting a pet dog.
By Chris Gilchrist

Here are things to keep in mind when selecting the right dog for you.
Age The ideal time to acquire a puppy is between six and eight weeks of age, to permit normal psychological development, since neither physical nor behavioral development is complete at this time. The best guide to the puppy's future is its parent, and buyer should if possible select a puppy from known breeding stock. The puppy should be normally plump, lively and free from obvious physical defects and extreme timidity. For establishing a breeding stock, the prospective owner will often do best by acquiring a pregnant female of proven fertility.Sex Male dogs are usually larger than females, more active, and tend to wander more as adults.Being less in demand, females are less expensive. Sexual cycles can be eliminated by spaying. The most desirable time to spay a female is after the first heat period as this will assure normal physical development.Breed The choice of dog breed depends on the use of the dog, and on your preference. All dogs require some kind of training and there is no breed that will make a satisfactory pet without it. Hounds and bird dogs are generally gentle with children and rarely get into fights with other dogs.

Owning a dog: choosing the right breed for a pet

2006-09-21T01:51:00.000-07:00

A person looking to own a purebred dog has a tough choice to make; there are great dogs in so many different breeds. Here is a basic outline highlighting the characteristics and needs of each breed.
Herding dogs - Dogs from this breeding group make excellent guard dogs. They were bred to be working dogs, so a herding dog needs to stay active for hours each day. Take them on frequent walks and play with them outdoors.
Hounds - Hounds are loyal and popular dogs that come in all shapes in sizes, from Beagles and Dachshunds to Greyhounds and Bloodhounds. They are smart dogs who often learn commands easily but follow them only sporadically. Hounds are easily distracted by their acute senses of sight and, especially, smell because they were bred to be hunting dogs. To prevent a hound from running away it needs to be kept on a leash when it goes outside. Otherwise, its senses will likely lead it on an impromptu hunt. Many varieties of hounds also have a loud bark that they use often.
Nonsporting Group - Dogs in the nonsporting groups include well known dogs such as American Eskimo Dogs, the Bichon Frise, Bulldogs, and Dalmations. There exists such a diversity within this group that a potential owner would be wise to look up characteristics of the specific dog breed rather than base a decision on the category to which that breed belongs dog belongs.
Sporting dogs - As the name implies, dogs belonging to this group are very high-energy, athletic animals that need plenty of exercise and stimulation. Sporting dogs are not lazy lap dogs; they were bred to assists hunters by finding a retrieving game. Many of them make great pets because they are even-tempered dogs that get along well with children and adults. Pointers, Retrievers, Setters and Spaniels are all sporting dogs.
Terriers - One of America’s most well known dogs, Toto, belongs to this group. His character provides a great example of what an owner should expect from a terrier. They are feisty and assertive and highly intelligent dogs who never give up and never back down. They cover quite a range of sizes, from small Carins like Toto, to the rather large Airedale.
Toys - When people think of Toys, Poodles Chihuahuas are often the fist dogs that come to mind, but the list of Toy dogs is actually quite a long one. Toys were bred down from larger dogs from a variety of breeds. You can get toy Greyhounds, Pinschers, Spaniels, Terriers and more. Because of their diverse origins, toys different toy breeds exhibit a wide rage of personalities. Most of them don’t needs vigorous exercise and are small enough to take almost anywhere. However, for this group, it is once again best to research the animal by breed not the group to which that breed belongs.
Working Group - Working dogs are usually quite large strong and sturdy. They have been bred to carry out specialized tasks, such as pulling a sled or guarding other animals. Most of them have thick fur and so prefer cold weather over hot. Because these dogs were bred to work, they enjoy regular exercise, but many are otherwise laid-back dogs.

Toys for Guinea Pigs

2006-04-27T05:33:00.000-07:00

A very common question is "What kind of toys do guinea pigs like to play with?" All piggies like different types of toys, but some successful ideas have been:

1) A balled up piece of blank computer paper. (Anything colored may contain harmful dyes).
2) Empty toilet paper rolls or paper towel tubes. Many pigs love to gnaw on these, carry them around the cage, etc.
3) Same as number 2, but with a slit up the side and stuffed with hay.
4) Bird toys. Some like them to hang from their cages in various spots. Other guinea pigs prefer them laying on the floor of the cage so that they can pick them up and shake them all about.
5) Ping Pong balls, tennis balls, ferret balls (or cat balls that don't have small parts that can be chewed through and swallowed). Some piggies enjoy nudging these around their cages.
6) Ferret hammocks and ferret sleeping bags. You can buy these any pet store that sells ferret supplies, or you can make your own.
7) Stuffed animals.
8) Empty old sock. Some cavies like to drag one around the cage with them.
9) Old sock stuffed with hay.
10) Large Chubes are fun for them to run through and chew.
11) Hidey Houses are great to run through and climb upon.
12) Pieces of PVC pipe for them to climb through, hide in, climb on, etc.
13) Large piles of hay to hide in, sleep in, and of course EAT!
14) Cinder blocks make great hiding places AND keep them cooler in the summer.
15) The largest size plastic Igloo ("Pigloos," if you will) sold by pet stores.
16) Large "Fiddle Sticks" sold by pet stores make great hiding places.
17) Empty brown paper bags make great hiding places as well as something fun to chew on.
18) Empty cardboard boxes. Larger ones make great "houses," and smaller ones filled with a few food pellets make great "rattles" for your piggie to toss about.
19) Cuddle Cups can be found at most pet stores and make great "beds" for your guinea pigs.
20) Mirrors. Some guinea pigs like to look at their own reflections.
21) Towels/blankets draped strategically around the cage can create fun "caverns" for them to hide/play in.
22) Wooden toys such as alphabet blocks, wooden spoons, etc.
NEVER buy a wheel or exercise ball for your guinea pig. They can result in spinal problems for your cavy.

Hamster help for broken bones

2006-04-27T05:32:00.000-07:00

Here is our hamster, who is known as Pot Noodle, (named after the UK snack food, due to his tendency to eat and eat and eat!), or Noodle for short. He is a year old now and is a very curious and energetic long haired syrian with plenty of character as can be seen from the picture. Noodle has a multi-level cage and recently had a fall during the night. Unfortunately, because of this he managed to break his front left arm and so is feeling sorry for himself at the moment.
We took him to the Vets and they gave us the following advice (just in case anyone else has the same problem):
1. Take away any exercise activities from his cage (i.e. wheels, etc)2. Take away any extra multi-levels so that his cage is all on one level and try to find a balance between minimising the size of the cage and not making him too bored3. Make sure he has extra bedding to make him comfortable when sleeping4.Try adding more calcium to his diet by adding pieces of milk soaked bread and/or pieces of high calcium dog biscuits to his food. This will help his bones heal quicker due to the extra calcium in his diet.
We have done these things and Noodle does not seem to be in any distress or excess pain, however, he can only hobble around at the minute, trying to keep the weight off his front left paw. The Vet said that the break will heal itself in around 6 weeks time, however, depending on how straight the bone heals itself, he may always suffer from a slight limp. During his recovery period we are trying to keep him happy and make up for his lack of exercise and climbing activities by giving him some extra treats and paying him lots of attention.
I hope that this information is useful to anyone in the unfortunate event that their own hamster has a similar accident. It seems that although multi-level style cages (i.e. RotoStak, etc) are fun and entertaining for the hamster to live in, there are some safety issues to consider also.
For anyone concerned about Noodle's health at the moment, he is not in any real pain, and is quite his normal character. In fact, the main problem is turning down his frequent requests to come out of the cage and play, as it is much better at the moment for him to rest and keep off his leg.

Housing Your Hamster

2006-04-27T05:30:00.000-07:00

No doubt when your purchase your hamster he/she will need a cage. There are many types of cages that will provide your hamster with a good habitat. There are countless attachments sold to make your hamster's cage more interesting including: plastic tubing, hamster wheels, separate tiers, ladders, bridges, sleeping areas, ceramic houses and shoes containing holes, mazes, and lots more! But the most important part is the cage to put your hamster in here are some possiblities...

Aquariums
Both glass and plastic aquariums can be used as hamster housing. An advantage that plastic has over glass is that it is lighter and therefore easier to clean, but plastic scratches more easily. Both glass and plastic aquariums have the advantage of being draft-proof; therefore, shavings and bedding remain inside (and not all over your floor!). However, they are cumbersome to clean. In addition, unless you add a specially designed top that takes add-ons such as standard clip-on water bottles and/or food dishes they are not a good choice. Aquariums are not suitable for a clip-on exercise wheel, although a freestanding wheel can be substituted. You must keep in mind that a freestanding wheel will take up more space in your hamster's home than a clip-on wheel. Wheels are a very important part of your hamsters cage as they provide an outlet for the hamsters nearly endless energy.
If you decide to use an aquarium as your hamster's home, you must cover it securely so that he cannot escape. Ventilated plastic tops designed specifically for these purposes are available. You should ALWAYS use them for your "hamster aquarium". The ventilated plastic tops often have modifications to take add-ons such as hanging water bottles. Don't use covers with large holes or easy to open lids as your hamster may escape; screen lids are not a smart choice ether as your hamster may chew a hole in the lid and get away! Remember that hamsters originate from a desert environment and yours does not like damp conditions so avoide solid lids as these do not all proper venilation and will cause condensation in the aquarium.
Most aquariums range in $5-$100 in price.
Hamster Cages
Traditionally hamsters were kept in cages and a cage is always the best choice for your hamster. Traditional hamster cages are normaly wire, square, structures with a metal or plastic litter pan, with a wire door that hooks over a ridged strip of metal. A variety of wire cages are sold today and these cages are the best thing you can put your hamster in. They are normally about 1-3 feet tall and many have two or more stories connected with ramps or ladders, giving your hamster a few dimensions to explore. They have a metal or plastic bottom that should be filled with cage litter and a wheel, water bottle, and many other fun toys are easy to attach to the metal wire sides. The best ones have doors on both the top and side of your cage making it easier to remove your hamster.
Cages range from $10-$300 in price.
Tube Cages
Some cages are designed as compartments connected via a series of plastic tubes, but you should avoid the ones with round components because hamsters may become disoriented without corners. Tube cages can be more difficult to clean than the traditional hamster cage. You must also ensure that the connecting tunnels will be large enough for your hamster to pass through when he is grown to full size.
Tube Cages range from $15-$500 in price.
Hamster Habitats
These speciality cages usally have a theme (desert, space, theme park etc). Most are designed to appeal to children since they are most often large bulky and brightly colored. Most are also decorated with cartoon hamsters, there is even a version featuring Hamtaro! They are large clear (or tinted) plastic filled with a tubing maze that offten extends outside the cage and they usally have all of the toys and food bowls/water bottles attached. Many also contain a "sky box" a tube that comes out of the cage conected to a clear plastic box. They are offten expensive and hard to clean.
They range in price from $20-$1000!
SIZE OF HOUSING
Your hamsters cage should be large enough that he/she can run without bumping into a wall or decoration. He/she should have at least 2 feet of clear running space. If your container has attached tubing, wheels, etc then make sure your hamster will fit in them when they are full grown!
SAFETY
The door must close firmly or your hamster may be able to push it open and escape. The doors should open outward rather than inward. If you use an aquarium with a plastic top, make sure that the top fits snugly over the sides and that the hamster cannot squeeze out. Your hamster's cage must not have sharp edges or broken wires that may cause injury.
If the cage is plastic, make sure there are no exposed edges through which the hamster could chew and make an escape.
All cages should be pet proof to ensure that if you have any animals with free run of the house they are not able to gain access to your hamster within it's cage.

Litter Types

2006-04-27T05:27:00.000-07:00

Meadow hay/straw: This is one of the cheapest and most readily available litter, but you must line the bottom of the tray with a thick layer of newspaper. It can be used to encourage rabbits to eat more hay and straw, which is essential for a healthy digestive system. It is easy to clean as when the litter is soiled you can simply roll up the paper and throw it away. This type of litter tends to be a bit messy so should be used with a high sided litter box or a plastic dog bed/storage box to keep it contained. The sharp seed husks of barley straw can cause injury to the rabbit’s paws, so you need to shake them out before putting it in the litter box. Make sure the hay and straw are dust extracted so they do not contain mites or mould.

Dried grass: This can be used as a litter, it is more nutritious than straw and hay but it is also quite expensive.

Paper pulp bedding: This is a natural litter made from reclaimed wood fibres that are too short to be used in paper production. This litter is very absorbent and has good odour control. It is light weight and easy to carry. It does not contaminate wounds, therefore is ideal for post operative care, rabbits suffering from sore hocks, sensitive skin, etc. It is sanitised to kill bacteria, mould and fungus so it will not harm your rabbit if ingested. Its has no added inks, dyes or chemicals, unlike recycled paper litters. The paper wont scratch floors, it can be vacuumed up, flushed, composted and is biodegradable.

Softwood litters: Studies from as far back as 1967 have shown that softwood beddings (for example pine shavings) can cause liver disease in small animals. When you open a bag of soft wood shavings you can immediately smell their fragrance, and this is where the problem lies. The smell is from natural volatile chemicals in the wood called phenols. Phenols are caustic, poisonous, acidic compounds which are routinely diluted for use in disinfectants, such as Jeyes Fluid. Inhaling phenols over time can irritate the mucous membranes of the nose and respiratory tract, which in turn, predisposes the rabbit to bacterial infection. The risk of damage to the liver and kidneys however is more serious. As the principal organs for filtering blood and urine and eliminating toxins from them, the liver and kidneys are designed to process only a certain amount of toxic material. The most obvious consequence of regular exposure to large amounts of toxins such as phenols is that the body is working to its limit already and cannot cope with the added burden of anaesthetic. At lower levels however, however, there may still be damage to the liver which is not fatal in itself but which is sufficient to depress the immune system, leaving the rabbit vulnerable to infections, particularly of the respiratory tract. Fortunately this type of liver disease can be avoided by removing the soft wood bedding from the environment. For a safer use of soft wood litter, keep in a large, open, well-ventilated areas only and have your rabbits blood checked every few months. Finally the dust contained in soft wood litter (particularly sawdust and shavings) can irritate the bunnies eyes.

All About Silkworms

2006-04-27T05:22:00.000-07:00

Background

Silkworms are the larva of a moth (Bombyx mori) native to Asia that spins a cocoon of fine, strong, lustrous fiber that is the source of commercial silk. The culture of silkworms is called sericulture. The various species of silkworms raised today are distinguished by the quality of the silk they produce. Silkworms feed on the leaves of the mulberries (genus Morus) and sometimes on the Osage orange (Maclura pomifera).Bombyx Mori will not bite, making an ideal worm for feeding most reptiles, amphibians and other animals, and they offer great nutritional value. Newborn are small enough for most baby reptiles to eat and young silkworms can even be fed so they will grow to a desired size. Silkworms are soft-bodied, slow moving and can grow to 3 inches in length. They are also relatively fast growing, reaching about 3 inches in length and ready to cocoon in as little as 25 - 28 days.Silkworms go through four stages of development, as do most insects: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The adult (imago) stage is the silkworm moth. The larva is the silkworm caterpillar. The pupa is what the silkworm changes into after spinning its cocoon before emerging as a moth. Since the silkworm grows so much, it must shed its skin four times while it is growing. These stages-within-a-stage are called instars.Today, the silkworm moth lives only in captivity. Silkworms have been domesticated so that they can no longer survive independently in nature, particularly since they have lost the ability to fly. All wild populations are extinct. Also contributing to their extinction is the extraordinary fact that they only eat mulberry leaves. Silkworms have been used by researchers to study pheromones or sexual attractant substances. The pheromones are released by female moths and the males detect the chemicals with olfactory hairs on their antennae. This allows the male to find the female for mating. The male antennae are made of many small hairs to increase the chances of picking up small amounts of the pheromones over long distances.

How to Grow Your Worms to the Perfect Size

The great thing about silkworms is that they only grow as much as you feed them, and they can go for a week or two without food. Say you have a couple hundred small silkworms, but you have a big bull frog or iguana. All you have to do is feed the worms as much as they'll eat, keep them warm and dry, and in a few days, you'll have some good sized worms. Have too many silkworms? Not a problem, feed them once or twice a week and they'll stay alive until you need them without growing much larger. Wash hands thoroughly before handling the worms or the food or they may develop bacterial problems. Using a cheese grater, grate a small amount of food onto the worms and repeat until the worms reach the desired size. For best results, maintain temperatures between 78° and 88° F.Excessive condensation forming in the container after feeding is the leading cause of failure. If this condensation does form, take the lid off your container and allow the container and old food to completely dry out. In the future, make sure the previous food is dry before feeding again. Old damp food is a breeding ground for mold and other problems, dry food is not. As the silkworms grow, you may need to transfer your worms to a larger plastic container. The lid needs to have ventilation holes. If not, you need to vent the lid so the silkworms won't suffocate and to allow condensation to dissipate. You can also use a shoebox. The old food and waste matter can be removed, but does not have to be if it remains thoroughly dry. Under ideal conditions (78° to 88° F and allowed to feed nearly continuously) silkworms can go from egg to 1 inch in length in about 12 days, and 3 inches in under 30 days. The worms will begin to spin cocoons at about 28 - 30 days old or when they are between 2 1/2 and 3 inches long.

From Cocoon to Moth

Silkworm moths emerge from their cocoons after spending about two to three weeks metamorphosing. As moths, they do not eat or fly. They will usually mate, lay eggs and die within a week. Fertile eggs turn from yellow to gray or purple in a week or so. If the eggs don't hatch within 3 weeks, they usually will not hatch until the following year (see above—from egg to larva).

Proper Handling Procedures

Again, in order for your worms to stay healthy for many weeks, you'll need to keep the silkworms as dry as possible. If condensation builds up during feeding, vent the container lid to prevent excess humidity.Be sure to wash your hands thoroughly before handling the worms or their food. Silkworms can be susceptible to bacteria if you don't properly handle them. As long as the container environment remains dry, your worms will be fine.Mold develops from high temperatures and high humidity. If the worms are covered with droppings, silk and old food for too long, mold may develop and kill the worms. If mold does develop, grate about 1/4 inch of food (sold separately) all over the worms with a cheese grater. As the worms crawl to the top of the new food pile you can transfer them off the moldy food and place them into a new container. Silkworms are susceptible to bruising and dying if not handled with care, especially as they grow larger. When handling and transferring the worms, be very gentle.

Bloat in dogs and how to..

2006-03-03T08:26:00.000-08:00

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.
Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.
For more information on the early signs of bloat, talk with your veterinarian. Ask what treatment he/she recommends for bloat, and if their hospital has a 24-hour emergency service.
Article courtesy of Larry Glickman, VMD, DrPh

Zawed

2006-01-01T01:03:00.000-08:00

Zawed Directory please all of you add your site .

Google search hates me! - VBulletin Webmaster Forums

2005-12-28T14:07:00.000-08:00

Google search hates me! - VBulletin Webmaster Forums

TEN THINGS YOUR DOG WANTS YOU TO KNOW

2005-12-25T11:57:00.000-08:00

If your dog could talk, these are some of most important things she would like to tell you...
1 - My life will probably only last 7 to 14 years. It will hurt me more than you know if I have to be away from you for longer than a day or two.
2 - If you have patience with me and give me time to learn what you would like from me, I can promise you, you will never be disappointed.
3 - Trust me with your life and have faith in our future together. If I don't feel that you honestly believe in me, I will suffer great emotional stress. My sense of self-worth is totally dependent upon your confidence in me.
4 - Don’t stay mad at me for long or confine me to a cage to punish me. You have your friends, your job, and your recreation. I HAVE ONLY YOU!
5 - Talk to me about anything you want as frequently as possible. Even if I can’t comprehend your precise words, I can understand the meaning of what you’re telling me by the tone of your voice.
6 - Remember no matter how you treat me, I will NEVER forget it.
7 - When you consider raising your hand to hit me, remember I have teeth that could break the bones in your hand, but I choose not to bite you.
8 - Before you scream at me for failing to respond to your commands as I usually do, take time to think about what might be wrong with me that would cause me to treat you differently. Maybe I haven’t been eating right or drinking enough water. Or maybe my age is catching up with me and I just can’t do what I used to do.
9 - Take good care of me when I get old. Someday you will be as old as me and you will see how it feels.
10 - Be there for me through good times and bad. Never say you can’t handle taking me to the vets for stitches or surgery. Nothing could make me feel worse. Everything in my life is easier for me to deal with when I have you standing by my side. Remember my love for you is unconditional and it will last for your entire life.

Bloat in dogs

2005-12-20T02:27:00.000-08:00

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.
Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.

Pet Ownership - To be read prior to getting an animal

2005-12-20T02:25:00.000-08:00

I have written this in the hopes that people will read it and learn from some of the experiences I have learnt from. I realise that the majority of the regulars on this website will already follow this simple guide, and I know they encourage others to follow suit. This is aimed at people searching for information or for those who are in need of a little education and guidance.
I don't think there should be a distinction in the size of the animal, an animal is an animal no matter what the size and they still depend on you for all of their needs, basic and otherwise.
Before buying a pet there are a number of things that need to be thought about -
1) The initial cost of the pet
2) The initial cost of the pets' necessary belongings e.g. house, cage, bed, bowls, bottles, toys.
3) The cost of food for that pet - remember this is a daily/weekly cost
“One way I’ve found to keep the costs of pets needs (i.e. bedding, food,) is by buying in bulk, if you buy a lot it can last through the hard times which happens every now and again where one is short of money.” Nula
4) The cost of litter for that pet - this is also a weekly cost
5) If your animal should become ill (no matter what the animal is or it's size) then you should be prepared to take it to a vet - it doesn't matter what time of the day or night your pet becomes ill it should be taken to the vet. If your child becomes ill you take it to the doctors thus if your pet becomes ill you take it to the vet. The excuse of having no money does not wash. Before you got the pet you should have thought about it. Vets cost money, it's a fact of life - you knew this prior to getting the pet and if you didn't think then that you could afford vets fees in a worst-case scenario then why did you get the pet?
6) The taming of an animal is different in every case - some animals will be tamed some won't, they are all different. Think seriously about this - the animal you get may not want to be tamed - it may be content just doing it's own thing in it's own space. This does not mean that your animal is unhappy. However just because you can't teach your pet to do the washing up, vacuuming or play the piano does not give you licence to return it to the shop, have it euthanased, send it to a rescue home or even sell it. Patience and information about the animal will help you to understand it’s behaviours, although some behaviours will never be fully understood (I’m thinking along the lines of bar biting here)
7) Getting rid of one animal after it's novelty has worn off does not mean that you can now go get another animal - if you weren’t able look after your previous animal then think seriously about owning another pet. Animals rely on you for everything.
8) Some pets can live for a long time – upwards of 15 years, you have to be prepared to look after the animal for this length of time. Pets are for life, not just for Christmas or until the novelty wears off. They have to be looked after as well as you would look after one of your family members. In my house my pets come first and people come second.
9) What will happen to your pet when you go on holiday? Kennel fees can be expensive – even for small animals, however relatives and friends can not always be trusted to provide the same level of care as you do. There are some people I know that I wouldn’t trust with a book, never mind a living, breathing creature!
10) I can appreciate that at the time of buying a pet the owner may be in a position to look after it for the rest of it's life, and sadly circumstances change, i.e. losing their job etc. However I don't believe the animal should suffer because of this, there are schemes whereby you can pay for treatment on a weekly/monthly basis, there are places like the PDSA - Peoples Dispensary for Sick Animals who will treat your animal for a minimal donation upon receipt of benefits books or proof of low income (I assume that there is something similar in the USA/Canada etc). There is also ways and means of saving for possible future emergencies - I previously worked in a bar and averaged approximately £10 in tips per night, these tips were not guaranteed but they went straight into my 'ham-jar' (tastes better than jam ) and after a few months of working I now have enough money to cover just about any emergency Willo could possibly have. Incidently I have now stopped working in the bar and my way of funding the ham jar has changed to my loose change being thrown in to a tin. I have also never heard of a vet charging for advice given over the phone although that may be different in the USA/Canada.
“* Check out which vet(s) available BEFORE getting an animal or at least before it gets sick. This will save a lot of agony if an emergency arises and you won't have to spend valuable time to find someone to help you.
* Also check if animal health insurance is available. Here in Sweden it is and I have chosen to get both Doris and Smulan insured so that if worse comes to worse I know that I can give them the treatment that they need. If anyone is curious about Swedish small animal insurance here is some information: Cost $25 per year First $60 of an illness (one or more visits) I have to pay myself, and also 10% of the cost above that amount. Since an emergency visit costs at least $100 the insurance will pay at least part of any visit to the vet. Most major vet centres can reduce the fee with the insurance amount right away but at some smaller practices I will have to pay in full and then get a refund from the insurance company afterwards.There are no age limits for the animals as long as they are healthy when you sign up. No health check by a vet is required. Although there is a 30 day "quarantine" period for an illness but accidents are included from day one.” Mimmi
11) If you are a parent thinking of getting your child an animal then please think about this, if you are a child or young person (by that I mean under the age of 18 - legally recognised as an adult in the UK) then you too need to think about the above and also get your parents or guardian to think about the above. If you are dependent upon your parents for everything related to the animal then ultimately it is your parents decision, and generally that decision is final, however try to discuss this decision in a rational manner if it is not the decision you expected, write down the pros and cons, your feelings if you can't discuss things rationally. If you think for one minute you would not be able to afford such things for your pet then please don't get one.
12) Ask as many questions about the animal you wish to acquire, ask them to as many different people as possible so you can glean as much information as possible – I find that owners of the animals you wish to get are generally the best people to speak to, vets can be a good source of information (depending upon the pet and the vet’s specialist area), the R.S.P.C.A/A.S.P.C.A (and other equivalents) also have fountains of knowledge. The information is out there – you just need to find it. You should never be embarrassed about asking what seems to be the most trivial of questions – if you don’t ask you will never know, and that could result in harm coming towards your beloved pet.
13) Breeding. Before allowing your animals to breed, think about what you are going to do with the offspring. If you are lucky enough to be able to keep them all then that is fantastic, however if you aren’t lucky enough to keep all of the offspring then what happens to them? Can you guarantee good homes? Will you provide a level of guarantee (i.e. you’ll gladly have the animal back if the new owner has any problems)? Will you provide information for new owners regarding their new pet? Will you be able to check out these new owners in so far as their knowledge of care? Is the store you plan on taking them to good with their current animals (i.e. are their cages suitable, do they have the correct food, are they clean etc?)
I apologise for any upset this thread causes but I have tried to structure it so it is more educational than ranting (thank you to those who helped). It is not meant as a dig at any one person, I have just noticed over the last few months that certain things appear to be common place and seem to be accepted as being ok – some things horrify me.
Thank you for taking the time to read such a long article and please feel free to add any ideas you may have, especially regarding saving money, or paying for treatments. The more ideas we get and the more educational resources we provide the more chance animals have of being looked after as they should be.
Thank you to those who have already contributed to this article.

Why Rabbits and Guinea Pigs Do Not Mix

2005-12-20T02:23:00.000-08:00

This question has come up a lot recently in both the rabbit and guinea pig forums. So here is the long and full blown answer.
Diet
Guinea Pigs cannot create their own Vitamin C, therefore their pelleted diet needs to enriched with Vitamin C. Rabbits can produce their own Vitamin C so the diet is lacking extra Vitamin C therefore it is unsuitable for guinea pigs. Both rabbit and guinea pig pellet diets are made to suit the individual diets of both different species, therefore, mixing these diets or feeding to the wrong species will mean the diet then lacks vital vitamins and minerals.
Language
Guinea pigs use both body and vocal language. Rabbits cannot understand the vocal side of things, therefore the rabbit finds this frustrating. Rabbits are not very vocal at all, and they rely on body language to communicate. A lot of this is shown with the ears. As guinea pigs ears are not as big, or flexible, the piggy cannot understand the rabbit. This leaving the pig frustrated.
So, why do they understand humans then? Well, although it appears that they learn what words mean, this is probably more of an association with the sound we make. And if rewarded with a treat, the will respond to this. when we stroke our pets, it is like grooming, therefore making your pet feel good about itself.
Fighting
This is often the result of the communication difficulties between the two species. They simply cannot understand each other. The frustration can then lead to fights. These fights are not all one sided. Both the rabbit and the pig could end up bitten or scratched and seriously hurt. If a wound turns into an abscess it can be fatal, as can bites and scratches.
There is also the fact that rabbits have strong hind legs. When a rabbit gets excited, it performs an act called a "binky" (the equivalent of a guinea pig "pop corning") where the rabbit bounds to the air and kicks out. Rabbits also kick out on the take off to run fast. An unsuspecting piggy can get caught in the way and receive a nasty blow. This can seriously injure or kill the pig.
Sexual Frustration
While rabbits are not sexually attracted to guinea pigs, it does not stop them trying to hump the pig. This can be very annoying to the pig, as it is a form of bullying. When sexually frustrated, rabbits often nip and bite the victim of their frustration. A sexually frustrated rabbit will find anything suitable as a mate, a human, and guinea pig, a cuddly toy. Even furniture.
Can you stop any of the above?
The only prevention is not housing your rabbit with a guinea pig. There is no fix to all of the above problems that will almost definitely occur.
Pet Shops
So your now asking why do pet shops house rabbits and guinea pigs together. The answer, I don’t know. Probably because during a stay in a pet shop the staff feel the animals are too young to be affected by this, this is incorrect. The other possible explanation is because the stay in the store is so short. This is no excuse either.Pet shops who choose to house rabbits and pigs together are setting a bad example, and this is probably where most of the associations of keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together route from.
Conclusion
Don’t do it.Guinea pigs live with guinea pigs, rabbits live with rabbits. Of course, it is not that simple, but the bonding of pigs and pigs and rabbits and rabbits is a different topic completely, which can wait for another day.
Prevention is better than cure, therefore, prevent fatal accidents and huge vet bills by keeping these species separate.

Buying From Professional Breeders

2005-11-30T00:11:00.000-08:00

If you've already familiarized yourself with the animal shelter and purebred rescue groups, you may want to check out responsible professional breeders. To find them, talk with veterinarians, seek out local dog and cat clubs, or search the Internet. And be sure to read up on the breed you're considering before visiting a breeder. Thay way, you'll know what to look for and which questions to ask.

Look for a breeder who knows a lot about the breed and knows how to breed to reduce the likelihood of genetic defects. Puppies and kittens from professional breeders receive early socialization and training to make them better pets. Animals are often sold from a waiting list created before breeding even takes place.
Selling animals for economic gain is not the goal of responsible breeders; improving their animals, their bloodlines, and the breed is the primary incentive. To screen those purchasing their animals, professional breeders sell directly to potential buyers, not through an intermediary.
Unfortunately, not all breeders have the animals' and your best interests at heart. That's why it's essential to screen breeders by visiting their kennel and talking with people who have purchased animals from them. Breeders know that the traits of their particular breed may make them unsuitable for some pet owners and will not sell their animals to unsuitable homes. Responsible breeders sell pets with contracts requiring that the animals be spayed or neutered; educate buyers about the breed and responsible pet care; remain available after the sale for support; and take back pets who don't work out. Irresponsible breeders are out for a buck, caring little for the animal, you, or your new life together.
Be careful, too, of those who breed, sell, and promote "fad" and physically challenged breeds. Many of the brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds, such as pugs and Persians, have breathing and eye problems, and sharpeis often suffer skin problems because of their multiple skin folds. Other breed standards, set by breed clubs for showing dogs in American Kennel Club competitions, may include ear cropping and tail docking. These surgeries, which cause pain and distress, are performed for cosmetic reasons and are neither medically indicated nor beneficial to the dog. A particular breed's propensity for genetic problems, or a breed standard that includes cosmetic surgery, are both good reasons to consider a different breed.

The Humane Society of the United States

Kids and Dogs Safety Tip Sheet

2005-11-26T00:29:00.000-08:00

Teaching children the do's and don'ts regarding animals is among one of the most important lessons you'll ever teach them. Animals are everywhere and though many are domesticated, this does not automatically make them safe. For example, in the US alone, 1-2 million dog bites occur annually.
Today many homes are raising children along with the family dog. Naturally kids delight in hugging, petting, and playing with their pets. But unfortunately, many children grow up believing that all dogs are gentle and friendly like their pets, and commonly fall victim to a dog attack, simply because they'd never been taught when it's not okay to approach a dog.
Start teaching your children the following safety guidelines regarding dogs when they are quite young, and continue reinforcing these precautions frequently.
Never run up to a dog.
Never attempt to touch a neighbor's dog through a fence.
Never touch a dog that is growling, showing his teeth, or barking hysterically.
Young children must never approach dogs without a grown-up's supervision.
Always hold your hand out first and allow the dog to sniff your hand.
Never grab at a dog.
Don't approach a dog that is a watch dog protecting his property.
Never attempt to touch a dog that is eating or in possession of a bone or a treat of some sort.
Never hurt the animal by pulling it's tail or fur for example.
If the dog is leashed, ask the dog's owner permission to pet the dog first.
Keep your face away from the dog's, when approaching or playing with them.
Don't make loud noises or sudden moves when approaching a dog. Speak softly to it.
If a dog is chasing you, stop running, as this encourages him to chase you.
Avoid eye contact with an aggressive dog, and back off slowly and non-threateningly.
Do not touch, or attempt to touch, the animal's eyes.

Can a pet enjoy a good quality of life if it loses a limb?

2005-11-26T00:28:00.000-08:00

Basil was a lovable, almost silver, mid sized, stripped tabby of no certain breed. An independent little fellow but nonetheless filled with affection in his own way. He used to fancy himself to be a hunter, but was never that successful at it, at least to the best of my knowledge he wasn't.
Only once, when Basil was not much more than a kitten, did I find an offering waiting on my kitchen floor. Now whether it was my obvious disgust about discovering half a rodent that made that the only occasion, or the fact that Basil (even when he had all four legs), was not that good at catching prey, I don't know but I suspect the latter.
More often than not Basil was out when I got home from work. He would come in when he was hungry, charging through the cat flap (pet door), and make me know, in no uncertain terms, that he was hungry. When he was home he would come running up and rub himself against my leg a couple of times, and then find himself a perch from which to observe me.
So, returning home on that late summers evening and hearing him cry out from the lounge, I knew that something was wrong.
At first, entering the room, I could hear his cries but not see him. There he was lodged tight under the stereo system. I crouched down but could not see too much of the little fellow. I reached in, scooped my arm around him and gently pulled him out. The sight of his mangled rear leg, with most of the fur missing gave me a start. Basil looked up at me with his yellow green eyes and an expression that seemed to say, "I have never asked for much from you. I made it home from the place where this happened to wait for you, all I can do is lick my wounds, but the wounds are bad, and I need your help. You will know what to do, you are my human."
I grabbed a towel and wrapped it as gently as I could around his mutilated limb. I guessed that he must have lost a lot of blood. Finding the cat carrier I settled him inside, and carried it out to my car. It was now quite late in the evening and arriving at my usual veterinarians' surgery I found it to be closed for the night. I was about to go and knock on the door and explain that I had a badly injured animal, when I remembered seeing an emergency veterinarians' office not too far away.
Moments later we were there. The lights were on, I walked in with Basil softly meowing, and explained to the receptionist that the poor chap must have been hit by a car or truck. The young lady took a look at Basil, gave him some soothing words, and called out to the veterinarian.
Not a cat that usually enjoyed being picked up by strangers, Basil the brave allowed the veterinarian to examine him without too much protest. After what seemed like an eternity the tall kindly looking "animal doctor" spoke."He's had quite an accident, it is very probable that he was thrown by the vehicle as well, but apart from the squashed leg he doesn't seem to have any other bones broken. I'm not sure what can be done, of course I will do what I can for him. Leave your details with my receptionist, go on home and I will phone you in about two hours."
I arrived home convinced that Basil the brave would have to be put to sleep. I sat thinking about him, from when he was a kitten, his futile attempts at hunting, his peculiar lovable little ways.
Eventually the phone rang. This was it, this was the veterinarian who was going to tell me that there was nothing that he could do for little Basil.
" I'm sorry..." said the veterinarian, "But I had to remove the leg."
Having been sure that he was going to tell me that Basil had been put down, on hearing that news I exclaimed " Wonderful! That's marvelous, thank you so much."
He must have thought me some kind of crazy nut, being so pleased about my pet loosing a limb!
"The amputation seems to have gone well but he will need complete rest for a while. Give my receptionist a call the day after tomorrow, and you may be able to take him home then"
The day came and I was able to bring Basil home. He had more of a stump than I imagined he would have and was able to get around with a sort of bunny hop. For the first couple of days though he did not want to do much prowling around and he kept himself indoors. On the third day when I arrived home, he was not in the flat. I went into the garden and called out for him, no sign of him at all. I went back inside feeling a little uneasy, but also pleased that he was getting back to his old self already.
Awhile later I heard the rattle of the cat flap, only it didn't sound quite the same as it usually did. On investigation I found Basil stuck half through the flap, with only 50% of his rear leg power he hadn't quite managed to get in. Not wanting to upset my surgically reduced pet by pulling him by the front legs I slowly opened the door and gently pushed him in. That was the only time, that I know of, that he got stuck, he must of quickly learned to adjust the thrust of his remaining leg.
Did his "handicap" deter him from his hunting attempts? Not a bit. He'd lay in waiting for pigeons to land in the garden, then try and rush at them, of course he never got near to a catch. Ever heard a pigeon laugh!
You know the type of garden fencing that is nothing more than thin slats of wood overlapping each other, they present a very thin top edge. Cats love to skillfully walk along them. One could be forgiven for thinking it impossible for a three legged cat, at least I did until I witnessed it. Slowly he would make his way along, his rear end seemed to drop every second step and it looked like he was about to fall. He never did, he always made it to the end.
I don't believe that Basil even knew that his leg was missing. He had a habit of sitting on his haunches, raising one hind leg and giving his ear a scratch, then repeating the process with the other leg and the other ear. He continued the habit after the accident. When it came to the missing leg, the stump would raise and waggle about and his head would turn to ensure that his ear got a good scratching from the non existent leg!
Sometimes, when folks saw Basil for the first time, they would exclaim "Poor little thing, he cant have much of a life!" Little did they know that he never let his missing leg stop him from doing the things he always had.
Basil has gone now, and I am not owned by another cat. I will save that privilege until the time I can move home to someplace with far less traffic. Whatever feline keeps me company will be wonderful I'm sure, just like Basil, who never once let his 'handicap' stop him being 100% cat.

Basic Training: House Training Your Puppy

2005-11-26T00:25:00.001-08:00

Probably the only time you will yell at your pup is when he makes your guest room carpet his toilet area. Yelling won’t help. Training would, specifically housetraining.
Like babies, pups do not know where to “go” unless taught so. The more consistent you are in following the basic housetraining procedures, the faster your puppy will learn acceptable behavior.
According to Vinay Sharma, dog trainer and breeder, it may take several weeks to housetrain a puppy, and with some of the smaller breeds, it might take longer.
A pup under six months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time. If you have to be away from home for more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. Don't give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on him whenever he's indoors. For a small pup you will have to look out for elimination every two hours, after each meal and play. Some things you can do are:
- Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take him outside to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.
- Praise your puppy generously every time he eliminates outdoors immediately after he's finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house. This step is crucial, because this is the only way he'll know what's expected of him.
- Pick a spot and always take your puppy to that spot using a leash. Take him out for a longer walk or some playtime only after he has eliminated.
- If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot. The smell will help your puppy identify the area as the place he is supposed to eliminate.
- While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like "go potty," that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him what to do.
Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and feed a high-quality diet to make housetraining easier. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that he'll eliminate at consistent times as well, and that makes housetraining easier for both of you. Housetraining a puppy requires a lot of vigilance, patience, and plenty of commitment. Never punish a pup if an accident happens, dogs don’t understand punishment, even if it’s only seconds later after the accident. Punishment will do more harm than good.

Basic Training: House Training Your Puppy

2005-11-26T00:25:00.000-08:00

Health Problems In Cats

2005-11-10T05:17:00.000-08:00

It may come as a surprise, if you're a new cat owner, that many health problems may befall your feline friend. Some problems are easily preventable, while others are hereditary.HairballsHairballs are among the most common of cat health problems. Cats groom themselves almost constantly, and swallow the loose hair that comes off their tongues. Occasionally, the hair gathers into a ball and lodges in the cat's digestive tract instead of passing on through the body. If your cat starts coughing and hacking, he probably has a hairball. While the end product is unpleasant for the owner, most cats don't have a problem dislodging hairballs. However, hairballs can occasionally pass into a cat's intestines and cause a blockage. This can be a life-threatening problem. There are a few signs to look for to see if your cat's hairball is dangerous. If your cat is constipated, off his feed, or is lethargic with a dull coat, then he could have a serious blockage. A vet exam is definitely in order.To prevent hairballs, groom your cat frequently to remove loose hair. In addition, feed your cat food that helps control hairballs.WormsFor many cats, worms are a recurring problem. Roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms most commonly infect cats. Cats can occasionally develop heartworms, as well. If your cat seems unable to gain wait, is infested with fleas, or has white specks that look like grains of rice in his stools, take him to the veterinarian for worm testing.Worms are easily cured with a few doses of medication, but if left untreated, they can be fatal.Urinary Tract InfectionsUrinary tract infections are another common health problem in cats. This infection is particularly common in unneutered male cats, although female cats can also develop this problem. If your cat suddenly stops using the litter box, a urinary tract infection is suspect. If your cat's urine smells strong, again a urinary tract infection may be the cause. These infections need to be treated by a veterinarian. Ask about cat foods that reduce the likelihood of another infection.Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)FIP is caused by a mutation of the corona virus. According to some experts, cats living in multi-cat environments tend to test positive for enteric corona virus. Cats can live with that virus remaining quietly in the intestines with no sign of disease for their entire lifetime. In other cases, probably a genetic pre-disposition, the virus mutates into FIP.Once a cat has contracted FIP, it will display symptoms of a mild upper respiratory infection: sneezing, watery eyes, and nasal discharge. It may also have diarrhea, weight loss and lethargy. Most cats fully recover from this primary infection, although some may become virus carriers. A small percentage of exposed cats develop lethal FIP weeks or even years after the primary infection.Feline Immunodeficiency VirusFIV, or cat AIDS, is not always fatal. FIV decreases the ability of the cat's immune system to fight infections. Cats with FIV may remain free of symptoms for years. It is when the cat contracts other illnesses in the chronic stage of FIV infection that FIV is first suspected. This long list of illnesses includes oral-cavity infections, upper-respiratory infections, weight loss, ear infections, kidney disease, and many others. Although there is, as yet, no vaccine, all cats should be tested for the virus. The virus is transmitted through saliva, usually when a cat is bitten in a cat fight.Feline Leukemia VirusFLV was, until recently, the most common fatal disease of cats. But with a vaccine now available, the number of cases is dwindling. Although the name leukemia means cancer of the white blood cells, this is only 1 of the many diseases associated with this virus, such as other types of cancer, anemia, arthritis and respiratory infections. FLV is preventable if the cat is immunized before being exposed to the virus. Although the disease is not always immediately fatal, cats with FLV rarely have a long life expectancy. NEVER bring other cats into your household when you have a cat with FLV.Lyme DiseaseIf your cat spends time outdoors, you should check him regularly for ticks. If you find a tick on your cat's body and he has been lethargic and acts as if he is in pain, ask your vet to test for Lyme Disease. This disease is transmitted to people and animals by deer ticks.Some cats may show subtle symptoms while others may show none -- symptoms are hard to recognize and often may be confused with other illnesses or old age. Be observant of your pet's behavior. It is the only way to know if your pet has contracted Lyme disease if no tick was found. Some symptoms of Feline Lyme Disease include:(a) lethargy,(b) reluctance to jump or climb stairs,(c) limping, or reluctance to put weight on a paw,(d) loss of appetite.The key to dealing with Feline Lyme Disease is prevention and early diagnosis and treatment. You should reduce the tick population around your home with simple landscape changes and spraying.Good Health CareTaking your cat for a regular check-up with the vet, and keeping all vaccinations on schedule will help assure your cat a long and healthy life. Prevention is the first line of defense for most feline illnesses. Many owners keep their cats indoors to protect them from cars, from cat fights which may expose them to deadly viruses, from ticks, and other hazards.Outdoor cats will enjoy greater freedom, but require a watchful eye, loving attention to their health status, and regular visits to the veterinarian.

Keep Halloween candy from pets

2005-11-10T05:15:00.000-08:00

DAYTON, Ohio, Oct. 30 (UPI) -- Halloween can be hazardous for U.S. family pet dogs or cats if they dip into the candy supply or from costumes.
"Many pet owners like to include their dog or cat in their Halloween celebrations," says Dan Carey, a veterinarian with The Iams Company. "Sadly, in the process, many owners do their four-legged friends a great disservice by dressing them in uncomfortable costumes -- 66 percent of owners dress their pets for Halloween -- or giving them rich, non-nutritional treats."
Carey suggests: keeping Halloween candy out of reach because chocolate can be especially toxic to pets; disposing of candy wrappers in the trash because a pet could eat them -- and some wrappings, such as foil, could cut the animals. Contact a veterinarian if it's suspected a pet has eaten wrappers, said Carey.
Carey also recommends bringing outdoor pets indoors because some trick-or-treaters can take mischief too far -- and nervous or aggressive pets should be kept away from children. Dogs taken along trick-or-treating should be on a leash because even the tamest dog can get excited during Halloween

Bloat in dogs

2005-11-01T00:42:00.000-08:00

Several times a week I receive a phone call from someone whose dog has died of bloat. Usually my role is to provide a sympathetic ear and assure the callers that there was nothing they could have changed to prevent the incident. Our current knowledge of bloat does not allow us to identify specific events that trigger an acute episode in susceptible dogs, although some form of "stress" was probably involved. One of our long-term research objectives is to better define what constitutes stress for dogs and to measure their physiological response to it. However, the primary goal of the research is to determine why some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others, i.e., what are the risk factors for bloat. This has led to studies of the physical conformation of dogs, their diet, vaccination histories, and even to new ways to evaluate a dog's temperament and personality.
The overall bloat fatality rate approaches 30% for dogs with a dilated, rotated stomach. Approximately half of the dogs that die with a rotated stomach will do so before veterinary medical or surgical treatment is obtained. Dogs may be found dead or die on the way to the hospital, or may be euthanized by the veterinarian because of their poor prognosis or the owner's financial considerations. In contrast, dogs properly treated have [greater than] 80% probability of surviving a bloat episode and then leading a normal life. Veterinarians over the past 2 decades have reduced dramatically the postoperative fatality rate from gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) from [greater than]50% to [less than]20% by using improved therapy for shock, safer anesthetic agents, and better surgical techniques.
Too often, however, owners of dogs that died of bloat tell me that they had recognized that the dog had a serious problem and rushed the dog to a veterinarian, only to be told that it was probably only a "belly ache," or that the dog's stomach was dilated, but not rotated. Sometimes the veterinarian recognized dilatation, but not a rotation (volvulus, torsion), passed a stomach tube to relieve the pressure, and sent the dog home. Or the dog was diagnosed as having dilatation and rotation, and a stomach tube was passed to relieve the pressure, but surgery (gastropexy) to permanently correct the rotation was delayed, either because the dog was thought to be too ill to withstand the surgery, or the veterinarian was not adequately equipped or prepared at the time to perform the operation. The latter may occur if the veterinarian is in the midst of busy office hours or if -- especially at night -- there is insufficient technical help available to properly perform the surgery, which requires careful administration of anesthesia, appropriate fluid therapy, and close monitoring of the dog's vital signs.
Numerous clinical reports from Europe and the United States show that gastropexy to prevent gastric rotation should be performed as soon as possible following stomach decompression on all dogs with gastric dilatation, whether or not the stomach is thought to be rotated at the time. The recurrence rate of gastric volvulus in dogs treated for bloat conservatively, i.e., without surgery, approaches 100%, whereas the recurrence rate following gastropexy is [less than]5%. The stomach of a dog that has had a gastropexy can still dilate, but it is unlikely to rotate, so if dilatation does occur after gastropexy, it can probably be treated conservatively.
What does all this mean to you? If your dog suddenly develops a distended abdomen, appears uncomfortable, and gets progressively worse, rush the dog to a veterinarian, preferably one equipped to do emergency surgery. Gastric distention is a life-threatening condition, even if the stomach has not rotated. Immediate decompression is required to relieve pressure on blood vessels and to restore circulation to the heart, because shock can occur within minutes of the first clinical signs. Fluid therapy is indicated to treat shock, and drugs may be needed if the heart rhythm is irregular. This should be followed as soon as possible by surgery to reposition and immobilize (gastropexy) the stomach before it is irreversibly damaged. The best indicators of how well the dog will do postoperatively are its physical condition (state of shock) prior to surgery and the appearance of the stomach during surgery (since dead or dying stomach tissue implies a very poor prognosis). Intensive monitoring is usually required for several days postoperatively in case complications occur.
If you suspect your dog has bloat, but the veterinarian dismisses it as a minor problem, inquire about radiographs to rule out GDV. If dilatation with or without volvulus is diagnosed and the stomach is decompressed, either by passing a stomach tube or by piercing the stomach with a large needle (trochar) passed through the body wall, the dog should be considered as a candidate for immediate surgery, unless its condition is too unstable to tolerate anesthesia. If the veterinarian recommends that surgery be delayed for any other reason, seek a second opinion immediately. Delay in surgery will increase the chance of the stomach rotating if it hasn't already, or will decrease the chance of the dog surviving if rotation has occurred.
Following is an excerpt of a letter that illustrates some of these points. "I noticed Kelly [an Irish Setter] attempting to vomit with nothing coming up. Grass? Chicken bone? I watched her and we continued to walk. She was happy and greeted people, wagging her tail, ... and had fun. We went home and Kelly went upstairs where she attempted to vomit several times. I immediately called my vet. Kelly and I arrived at the veterinarian's office within five minutes of the phone call. I told the veterinarian that Kelly had vomited two or three times with nothing coming up. I said that she looked a little broad around the ribs. The veterinarian did a physical examination and concluded that Kelly's problem was just a "stomach ache." ... I was directed to give her Pepto Bismol®. I took Kelly home and she lay down on the bed. About 45 minutes later she went out to the back yard. When I went out 10 minutes later, I found her bloated up. I grabbed her, took her back to the veterinary hospital, but she died on the operating table." (Comment: There is no guarantee that if radiographs had been taken during the first veterinary visit, Kelly's outcome would have been different. However, radiographs might have confirmed the presence of gastric dilatation or volvulus, and thus the need for immediate gastric decompression and surgery.) Be prepared -- Teamwork between you and your veterinarian is your dog's best hope when it comes to bloat.
For more information on the early signs of bloat, talk with your veterinarian. Ask what treatment he/she recommends for bloat, and if their hospital has a 24-hour emergency service.
Article courtesy of Larry Glickman, VMD, DrPh
BLOAT (DILATATION VOLVULUS) - Bruce Fogel DVMBloat (dilatation) followed by stomach rotation (stomach torsion) is a lifethreatening condition. Partial or complete rotation prevents food from entering or leaving the stomach. The abdomen swells. The affected dog may drool, retch, wander restlessly, become listless, or show signs of pain. Shock quickly develops.Bloat is an acute condition with a high fatality rate even for dogs that receive immediate medical attention. Early diagnosis and swift surgical intervention, combined with aggressive medical therapy, increases the chances of survival. This condition, however, is as serious as it gets.DIAGNOSIS - X-rays will confirm the diagnosis. An affected dog may be just uncomfortable or in advanced lifethreatening shock. Reducing pressure inside the stomach is vital. If a tube cannot be passed down the esophagus. your vet will insert a large-diameter needle through the abdominal wall directly into the stomach
TREATMENT - Emergency therapy with fluids, corticosteroids, antibiotics, drugs to control related heart arrhythmias, and drugs to limit the release of large quantities of tissue-damaging tree radicals starts immediately.At the same time, surgery is used to rotate the stomach back and to secure it down into its normal position. The spleen, because it acts as a pendulum and is often damaged by a gastric rotation, is usually (although probably needlessly) removed.PREVENTION - If you have a dog that is known to be at risk of bloat (see description at bottom), you can take steps to prevent the problem. Limit water consumption for an hour before or after each meal. Do not allow the dog to drain the bowl of its contents: water should be consumed in moderate quantities. Do not allow rolling or other exercise after meals.

Dividing food into small meals has not been shown to reduce the risk of further bloating.
BREEDS AT RISKThe risk of bloat runs in families. Middle-sized, large, or giant breeds with deep, narrow chests are most at risk from this condition.

Breeds at risk of bloat include:
• Doberman Pinscher
• Gordon Setter (above)
• Great Dane (top)
• Irish Setter
• Irish Wolfhound
• Standard Poodle
• Weimaraner

Epileptic pets can still be compassionate loving companions

2005-11-01T00:41:00.000-08:00

Among all the diseases I encounter in my practice, one of the most notable is epilepsy. For most owners, the sight of their pet having an epileptic seizure is a traumatic experience that will cause them to be anxious about their pet's future. Fortunately many dogs with epilepsy can have their condition adequately controlled with the appropriate medication. Epilepsy is one of the many diseases that can cause seizures and should be distinguished from other conditions and problems such as hypoglycemia, liver problems, poisoning, heart problems, infection and neoplasia. The use of blood tests, radiology, electrocardiogram, ultrasound, MRI and other tests help the veterinarian rule out other conditions similar to epilepsy.An epileptic seizure is preceded by the aura, a stage in which the pet senses that the seizure is about to take place. The owner might notice a change in his pet's behaviour, as it may try to hide from or stay close to the owner, complain or become aggressive. After these preliminary signs the seizure itself, called ictus will take place. The dog will become unconscious and fall on its side. Its legs will become rigid and paddling movements can be seen. Many dogs will tend to urinate or defecate at this stage. Although the seizure seems to last a long time, it usually does not exceed two or three minutes. During the post-ictal period, the dog will become confused and disoriented. It can also pace or even become blind for a while. In between episodes the pet will appear normal both physically and mentally.
During the crisis, or ictus, care should be taken to prevent the pet from hurting itself. Remove furniture in close proximity to your pet and prevent the animal from falling downstairs. Do not try to put your hands in its mouth as you can be bitten very badly. Should your pet ever experience such episodes you should have it examined promptly to determine if epilepsy is the problem. If epilepsy is diagnosed the medical approach taken will depend on the frequency and intensity of the seizures.
Many drugs are available to control epilepsy and are used when epileptic seizures become too frequent or intense, but one should not expect the medication to cure the problem. The goal of the therapy is to reduce the intensity, frequency and duration of the seizures. Controlling epilepsy usually means lifelong treatment. The assiduity and regularity with which the owner gives his dogs its medication is extremely important. By giving the appropriate medication at the right dosage, for most pets, the condition will be well-controlled. An epileptic pet which has its condition under control will remain a very appreciated member of the family.

Article courtesy of Dr. Bernier Montreal West Veterinary Hospital

Older Guinea Pigs - Considerations

2005-10-30T01:50:00.000-08:00

Introduction
Older pigs can sometimes get over-looked in favour of young guineas, either in their own household, or when a potential owner is choosing a new pet.
There are pros and cons in caring for, or choosing, an older guinea (for the purposes of this article I am including any guinea that is already adult, say over 1 year) but I hope that in reading this article, anyone would think hard about choosing an older pet and giving them the chance of a long and happy life.
This article concentrates on the pig's character and compatibility, as health care will be covered in other articles
Pros and Cons
If you acquire a pet from a rescue, or from someone who unfortunately due to circumstances beyond their control, has to give up their beloved pets, they can be old or young: many litters are born in this situation.
Once you have squealed your way round the skittish youngsters, take a moment to consider the older pigs that are available.
With a youngster you have no idea of the personality they will develop - this will depend on a complex mixture of nature and nurture.
The nature part is set and you can't influence it.
Their nurture will depend partly on how well their mother has taught them, partly on their experiences so far, and partly on how you treat them from now on, if you were to chose them.
2 out of 3 of those factors are out of your control, so as much as you think that you are choosing a pig with certain attributes (eg you may think you are choosing the quiet one of the bunch to suit your quiet household), they are an unknown quantity, and may only be quiet in that group - they may turn out to be a boss pig in another environment.
And if they didn’t develop the type of personality you sought, would you be disappointed?
Then consider the older pigs: their nature is known.
Their nurture is usually known: it may have been less than ideal, but their adult character will already show how they have coped with it. If their conditions improve from now on, with regular handling, a shy pig can be brought out of it shell, a nervous pig can be taught to trust, a bossy pig can be tamed down, but you will already have an idea of the basic characteristics from the information the rescue staff, or the previous owners who are surrendering their pet, can give you.
Their full health history may be a mystery, depending on their circumstances, but their recent history will tell you of any chronic conditions, acute problems or items that need monitoring.

Bow Wow Bliss: Five Ways To Meditate With Your Dog

2005-10-28T12:58:00.000-07:00

By: James Jacobson

Meditation is as simple as a walk in the dog park. Imagine sitting down with your dog. As you both begin to relax, your breaths become longer, less hurried. Your thoughts slow down until it seems like you are not thinking at all. If you and your dog already share moments like these, then you’ve glimpsed the bliss of meditation. Meditation is great for dogs. Not only does it improve a dog’s health and well-being, but excitable dogs become calmer, aggressive dogs become more loving, and dogs that once whined and howled for attention become quieter and more content. Meditation is great for you, too. It relieves stress and sharpens your mental focus. Here are five ways to get started on a non-dogmatic meditation practice. Schedule a regular time. First thing in the morning is a great time, or right after you get home from work but before you get into your evening activities. The more consistent you are, the more you and your dog will be able to ease into meditation. Develop a ritual. Ritual helps to prepare you and dog for meditation. Light a candle, burn incense, put on quiet music, or sit in the same place and position each day. Let go of expectation. If you have a pre-conceived idea of what your meditation experience will be, you’ll just get frustrated. Your experience will not be the same as someone else’s and chances are, will be different for you from day to day. Enjoy your meditation, however it turns out. Connect with your dog. When you sit down to meditate, your dog should be either lying next to you or on your lap. Put one or both hands on your dog. This connection is soothing to him. Your dog may get up. That’s okay. Just stay quiet, and when your dog returns, put your hand or hands back on him. Conclude your meditation the same way each time. This signals your body and mind, as well as your dog, that it’s time to move on to the next part of your day. The transition should be gentle rather than jarring. Pet your dog slowly, lengthening the stroke from short to long; whisper or say aloud an affirmation, quote, or prayer; or roll your head from side to side. Meditating with your dog is as individual as your relationship with your dog. Be patient. Try different things. There are few rules about meditation. The perfect meditation is whatever brings you and your pooch bow wow bliss.

Obedience Training Your Dog – The Importance Of Rewards

2005-10-28T12:53:00.000-07:00

Rewards just may be the single most important motivator in dog training. Obedience training through the use of rewards and other positive reinforcements has long been recognized as the most effective method of reaching most dogs and getting the best possible results. Making obedience training fun, and even making it a bit of a game, can be very important to keeping both the dog and the handler motivated and willing to learn. Incorporating a period of playtime at the beginning and end of every training session will make sure that every session begins and ends on a good note.

The most basic of all obedience commands is heeling, or walking with the handler on a loose lead. This is usually the first obedience behavior that is taught, and it is an easy one to teach through reward training.

Begin by fitting the dog with a quality, properly fitted training lead and training collar. If you are unsure of how to fit the training collar, be sure to ask a dog trainer, or the manager at the store where the equipment is purchased. Start walking with the dog, always being cognizant of the dog’s position relative to your own. If the dog begins to forge ahead, gently pull on the leash.

This will engage the training collar and give the dog a gentle reminder to slow down. It may be necessary to apply greater pressure at first until the dog learns to accept the correction. If the dog begins to fall behind, slow down and gently urge the dog forward. The use of a lure, or a favorite toy, can be very useful when teaching the dog to walk at your side. By keeping the lure at the desired position for the dog, he or she should quickly learn the desired location. Always be sure to provide plenty of praise, treats, toys and other rewards when the dog does what is expected of him. Dogs learn best by positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement means that when the animal does what the handler wants, it receives a reward, which can be anything from a pat on the head to a treat to a favorite toy. At the beginning of training, even the slightest attempts to please the owner should be rewarded.

Training by using reprimands and punishment is not nearly as effective as training by using rewards. Dogs can become discouraged and confused by excessive amounts of punishment and reprimands. Reprimands may be required from time to time, to correct potentially dangerous behaviors like chasing or biting, for instance, but reprimands should be short and directly attributed to the problem behavior at hand. After the immediate danger has passed, the training should continue with reward based training and positive reinforcement. For instance, if you come home and your dog is chewing the furniture or other inappropriate item, immediately give the dog a sharp “No” or “Off” and take the item away.

Then immediately give the dog one of his toys or other items that he is allowed to chew on, and praise the dog enthusiastically when he takes the toy and begins to chew it. This will teach the dog to associate chewing some items, like his toys, with praise, and chewing inappropriate items with reprimand. It is very important for the dog to make these associations, since it is very hard to change negative associations once they have formed. It is always much easier to train proper obedience behaviors the first time than it is to go back and retrain a problem dog later on. That does not of course mean that retraining is impossible, it simply means that it is more difficult.

Teaching a puppy, or an older dog, to associate the behaviors you value, such as coming when called, sitting on command, walking at your side, chewing only on toys, etc. with happy, fun times is the basis of all successful dog training.

Pets. The Wild Kind.

2005-10-25T22:13:00.000-07:00

Just because we moved out to the country a couple years back does NOT mean we want to run a farm. Tending to animals is just not how we want to spend our time. We don't want cows or sheep or chickens. We don't want hogs or ducks. We don't even want a dog or a cat to train.OK, so my wife says that she wants a cat, but that's only because she knows I won't have anything to do with it. I suspect that if I ever said, "OK, you win. Let's get a cat", she would run screaming down the stairs pulling at her hair and just keep on running...causing damage to the stairway carpet, not to mention the window at the bottom of the staircase.We don't want a parrot or a rabbit or a hamster or even a mouse.But when you live in the country, you have pets, whether you like it or not.The first summer, we were welcomed by Muffet the skunk. Although she never responded to that name, we let her keep it. She just loved our compost heap. In fact, she had a frequent-eater pass at the all-you-can-eat compost buffet.The second summer we were skunk-free, but this summer we were blessed with a new traveling perfume salesman. We did not name him, but we have determined that he is on a diet. He stays away from the all-you-can-eat compost buffet.He is also much less intelligent than Muffet. When we see him, we jump and shout and wave our hands to get his attention,. But we usually have to get his attention three or four times before something in his microbe-sized brain clicks in and says, "Wait a minute. That's not the hot dog vendor beckoning me to clean up his leftovers. Maybe I should turn around."But he is smart enough provide a two-tier burglar deterent. First, he drives them away with his odor. "Peee-ew. Let's go rob the Jensons down the road." Second he digs thousands of tiny pits all over the lawn to trip any burglar foolish enough to try to escape.And to answer your question, no I did not personally verify the gender of these skunks. But you are free to check if you doubt my word.This summer, we discovered an exotic spider. Painted on its inch-long black back are two bright yellow eyes. Spooky. We even watched it wrap its prey - a small, light brown flying thingy. With amazing speed, the spider scurried from the center of her web toward the helpless victim at least a foot away. Then in a matter of two seconds flat, the spider spun the fly around three or four times, weaving it into a web cocoon like rolling a corpse in a carpet behind Luigi's Fine Finer and Smokes. No gangster could have operated with one tenth the speed.Just a few hours ago, I was proud to show off a bees nest over a foot tall hanging from a low branch in our One Acre Woods."Wow. It's just like in Winnie the Pooh!" That was Little Lady, now 3 years and 3 months old."Destroy it. There must be thousands of bees in there!" That was my wife.The fact is that I have had to destroy a four bees nests in the past three weeks, all between the stones in our foundation. I am not keen to drive the bees away from their forest nest and toward the house. In fact, I think I'll post an arrow sign near the house pointing to the forest: "Cheap rent. Spacious hive. Vibrant community."

So far, we've avoided the pets inside the house - we won't discuss the "storm trooper ants incident" or the midnight mouse- trap peanut-butter visits - and we have kept the hogs and sheep at bay (although the chickens sheepishly crawl through the fence and the stray cats like to run hog wild around our land).No pets, perhaps. But you still have to share your space with skunks and spiders and bees when you live in the country.

By: David Leonhardt

Preparing Your Dog for Your New Baby

2005-10-24T13:01:00.000-07:00

Having a baby comes presents a big life change to any parent. But, as a pet owner, many expectant parents face an added challenge. How to prepare your dog for your newest family member. Your dog is used to being your only "baby", and now he will have to share you with this new little person that will be entering "his" home. It is best to start preparing your dog when you first find out you are expecting, rather than waiting until the day you bring home your new baby. He has many new things he will need to become acclimated with, such as new smells and objects entering his home. And of course the baby! Below are some suggestions and tips you can use to make the transition easier for both you and your dog.

>> Tip Number One

Invite over a friend that already has an infant to accustom your dog to babies. Be sure to supervise your dog and not leave him unattended, even if your dog seems unfazed by the baby's presence. Safety is the most important thing.

>> Tip Number Two

If you have a nursery for the baby, put a gate in the doorway as soon as possible, as this will teach your dog early on that he is not allowed in that room. A gate is a good choice as dogs are curious creatures by nature. Allowing him to see what is going on in the room will also help in not making him feel isolated or left out once your baby arrives.

>> Tip Number Three

Begin sprinkling some baby powder on the carpet or rubbing baby oil on yourself. This will help him to become accustomed to the new smells now, making the transition much easier when you finally bring your new baby home.

>> Tip Number Four

Before your baby enters your home, be sure to take your dog to the Veterinarian to be sure that his shots are updated and that he is healthy. Also be sure to have his nails clipped. You don't want him to jump up and scratch you or your baby.

>> Tip Number Five

While you and your baby are still in the hospital, have your husband or a family member bring home a piece of clothing that belongs to your new baby and give it to your dog. This will help him become accustomed to your baby's smell and he will likely be more relaxed when your baby enters the home.

>> Tip Number Six

When you are coming home for the first time, it is best that you greet your pet without your baby, while someone else holds the baby away from the area. You need to remember that he will be excited to see you and may jump up. Should this happen, you don't want to reprimand your dog and have him coincide your reprimanding him with your new baby. This could cause him to resent the baby. After he calms down, have your husband bring in the baby and hold him, allow your dog to sniff the baby. Have a treat in hand for your dog and be sure to praise him for his good behavior!

by indulgeyourpet.com

Great Danes - Their Origin And Temperament

2005-10-23T05:47:00.000-07:00

The origin of Great Danes, like that of many other varieties of dogs, is so obscure that all researches have only resulted in speculative theories, but the undoubted antiquity of this dog is proved by the fact that representatives of a breed sufficiently similar to be considered his ancestors are found on some of the oldest Egyptian monuments.A few years ago a controversy arose on the breed's proper designation, when the Germans claimed for it the title "Deutsche Dogge." Germany had several varieties of big dogs, such as the Hatzrude, Saufanger, Ulmer Dogge, and Rottweiler Metzgerhund; but contemporaneously with these there existed, as in other countries in Europe, another very big breed, but much nobler and more thoroughbred, known as Great Danes.When after the war of 1870 national feeling was pulsating very strongly in the veins of reunited Germany, the German cynologists were on the lookout for a national dog, and for that purpose the Great Dane was re-christened "Deutsche Dogge," and elected as the champion of German Dogdom. For a long time all these breeds had, no doubt, been indiscriminately crossed.The Great Dane was introduced into this country spasmodically some thirty-five years ago, when he was commonly referred to as the Boarhound, or the German Mastiff, and for a time the breed had to undergo a probationary period in the "Foreign Class" at dog shows, but it soon gained in public favour, and in the early 'eighties a Great Dane Club was formed, and the breed has since become one of the most popular of the larger dogs.The Kennel Club has classed Great Danes amongst the Non-Sporting dogs, probably because with us he cannot find a quarry worthy of his mettle; but, for all that, he has the instincts and qualifications of a sporting dog, and he has proved himself particularly valuable for hunting big game in hot climates, which he stands very well.Respecting the temperament of the Great Dane and his suitability as a companion writers have gone to extremes in praise and condemnation. In his favour it must be said that in natural intelligence he is surpassed by very few other dogs. He has a most imposing figure, and does not, like some other big breeds, slobber from his mouth, which is a particularly unpleasant peculiarity when a dog is kept in the house. On the other hand, it must be admitted that with almost the strength of a tiger he combines the excitability of a terrier, and no doubt a badly trained Great Dane is a very dangerous animal.It is not sufficient to teach him in the haphazard way which might be successful in getting a small dog under control, but even as a companion he ought to be trained systematically, and, considering his marked intelligence, this is not difficult of accomplishment.

Super Cat Urine Prevention Tips

2005-10-23T05:39:00.000-07:00

Many times cat owners are at a loss as to why their cat doesn't use their litter box. Here are some great tips that can help you solve the problem.The litter box is the first thing you should check. It should be in a quiet, private area of the house. Many people put them in their basements and leave the door open a little as this not only creates a private environment but also keeps odors to a minimum in the rest of the house.Some use a closet but if you do this be sure and keep the box clean to reduce odors in such a confined space and don’t forget to leave the door open!Another placement possibility is under a table. Many people find a place without carpeting is best from a maintenance point of view as tile or cement is a lot easier to clean.Ask yourself if you changed the litter box in any way:* Has the box been moved to a high traffic area recently?* Does the box need cleaning?* Is a new litter being used or does it have too heavy a scent (clumping and unscented is best).* Has the depth of the litter in the box changed? Some cats like their litter deep, others shallow.* Your cat has outgrown the box and needs a larger one.* The box is too hard to enter and exit. This can be an issue for older cats.Do not put food and water near the litter box. Cats like these two areas kept separate (don’t you?).If your cat has picked out a particular room to soil try closing the door to that room if you can or cover the target area with furniture.Put a bowl of food over the target area as cats like to keep their eating area away from their “bathroom”.Take your cat to the Vet on a regular basis.If you have more than one cat get each one of them their own litter box.Have you recently moved? A cat might smell an area where the previous owner’s cat urinated.Let the cat alone while it goes so it can have some privacy.If it is a new cat in your home it could take from three to eight weeks to get adjusted to the new environment. Be patient!Was there a recent addition or loss to the family? A new baby, spouse? This is usually temporary until the cat adjusts to the change in their environment.A change in your schedule can throw off your cat's schedule as well and cause problems. Try and phase in major lifestyle changes gradually.NEVER EVER punish the cat by kicking, hitting, chasing, screaming or rubbing their nose in their urine (remember the smell doesn’t bother them). Cats cannot make the cause and effect connection like we can so punishment after the fact is useless and will only make matters worse.Cats are naturally very clean animals and they know where they are going. It is important to remember this and try and help your cat overcome any stress or anxiety they might be having in a caring and loving manner.

Hartz Mountain vets caring for Katrina's tail-wagging victims

2005-10-22T19:51:00.000-07:00

Hurricane Katrina's four-legged victims are being treated this week by a Secaucus-based company.
The Hartz Mountain Corporation, a pet products company, is examining 100 dogs that were left behind in Baton Rouge, La., after Katrina hit. The dogs were gathered by the American Kennel Club and brought to Madison in Morris County on Oct. 2.
"The AKC airlifted them and brought them to St. Hubert's facility in Madison," said Dr. Jill Richardson, director of consumer relations at Hartz.

More than 20 veterinarians - 10 of whom are on staff at Hartz - and volunteers went to St. Hubert's Animal Welfare Center to examine the dogs.
"We had 20 dogs in a room and they were very quiet on the first day," said Richardson.
After a few days of rest, they gained back their strength and are "not so quiet anymore," she said.
The dogs were given X-rays and treated for fleas and heartworms and are currently under quarantine until this weekend.
"They're all really good dogs," said Richardson. "These pets are all smiling, they're very happy."
Since the owners of the dogs have either relinquished ownership or have not yet reclaimed their dogs, Hartz will find them new homes in at an upcoming adoption event in Madison. Pictures of the dogs will be posted on the Web site petfinder.com for owners who want to reclaim their dogs.
Hartz will donate a gift basket filled with pet supplies for every adopted dog, said Richardson. A date has not yet been set for the adoptions.
In addition to the supplies Hartz sent to treat the quarantined dogs, the company donated $50,000 to the American Red Cross for hurricane relief.

13 ways to save your furniture from cat scratching by Petar Petrov

2005-10-22T19:46:00.000-07:00

Cats are great pets. They love to play, they love to cuddle when you are watching TV or sleeping, and they purr for no reason other than being near you. But they also love to scratch. Unfortunately, the things they love to scratch are often the legs of your antique table, your upholstered sofa, or your expensive carpet.
Although many humans do not appreciate when their cats scratch, you have to know that kittens and cats do not scratch to make us angry, they just need to scratch. Scratching is a natural hardwired behavior in cats, just like breathing and purring, and every cat owner must know WHY CATS SCRATCH.
In the wild, cats scratch around their immediate environment to signal their presence to other cats and to claim the area in question. The marking takes two forms: visual and olfactory. The visual is in the form of clawing marks and is so obvious that even we humans can recognise it. The olfactory mark is subtler, involving the release of pheromones. These are substances secreted from the body to be picked up by the number of the same species, causing them to alter their behavior.
Scratching has additional function too. It removes the nail sheaths, outer layer of dead cells from the claw. You might thing your cat scratches to sharpen her claws, but it more likely it provides her with a form of physical therapy for the muscles and tendons of her paws.
There are two groups of target for every cat. The first one is when your cat targets one or two areas in the home, usually near important territorial areas such as: sleeping area, litter tray, hunting or play areas. The second one is your cat undertake more widespread and destructive scratching in highly visible sites such as: doorways, windows, prominent furnishings - like sofas.

WHAT YOU CAN DO IF YOUR CAT SCRATCHING YOUR FURNITURE?

1. The easiest but the most painful method for cat is declawing. Faced with cat scratching problems, many people consider declawing surgery. But many veterinarians believe declawing is a painful and unnecessary surgery and refuse to do it for humane reasons. Instead, they advocate training your cat to use a scratching post.
2. Make sure there are multiple scratching opportunities. Cats often like to scratch after eating and sleeping, so be sure there is something to scratch near where they eat and sleep. A scratching post is an excellent investment for your cat. It will allow her to scratch, stretch and exercise all at once. If you want to provide your cat not only with scratching surface, but and places where she can climb, perch and sleep you should consider cat tree.
3. Cover the furniture with something your cat does not like: double sided tape, some plastic or aluminium foil. Some cats dislike the feeling and sound of foil, and most cats hate things that stick to their fur. Double-sided sticky tape used in carpet installation works well, but be sure the tape won’t harm your cat or furniture.
4. Keep your cat mentally stimulated and offers her plenty of opportunity for exercise, and she will has less opportunity to be destructive in your home. If your cat is frustrated and bored, she may scratch your furniture or tear your drapes. Give her enough play time. Cats are motivated by smell, sound, texture and movement. The toys you use should aim to cover all these aspects. Discover your cat’s preferences by presenting a variety different sized toy made from different materials and watch her reaction to gauge her preferences.
5. Cutting the nails regularly may help keep a cat from scratching the furniture, or at least reduce the damage done by its scratching. Get your kitten used to having its nails clipped while it is young, praise her while you clip the nail and reward her with a treat.
6. Booby trap the furniture with a soda can with some pennies in it, so that if cat scratches, it makes a noise.
7. Use a doorknob alarm on your curtains. When pinned to the drapes, the alarm will sound every time your cat tries to use curtains as a ladder.
8. Consider a window perch for your feline friend. It will give your cat hours of entertainment - especially if you place a bird or squirrel feeder in the garden outside the window. Be sure the window is closed so your pet won’t fall out.
9. When you catch your cat scratching furniture, try squirting her with a water pistol or squirt bottle and use a firm ‘no’. Of course, this won’t stop your cat when you are not around.
10. If your cat is gaining access to a high bookcase by leaping from a nearby chair, move the chair. Without her launchpad, your cat will no longer be able to reach her perch.
11. You can also try taping inflated balloons to the problem areas. When your cat pops one with her claws, she will avoid scratching there again. However, try this only when you are at home, so you can pick up the balloon pieces before your cat tries to eat them.
12. There are training devices that keep cats off forbidden areas by making annoying sounds. They are available at pet supply stores, catalogs and websites.
13. If your cat still scratches in appropriate places, use some sprays like bitter apple or actual orange peels, which are good deterrents.
All forms of physical punishment should be avoided since they can cause fear or aggression toward the owner, and at best, the cat will only learn to stop the scratching while the owner is around.
It does not matter which method you will choose to prevent your furniture destroying, every cat owner mush know that it is impractical and unfair to expect cats to stop scratching entirely.

How to select a bird cage? by Andrew Thibaudeau

2005-10-22T19:41:00.000-07:00

A bird cage purchase is the most important investments in a avian owner / lovers life. Bird cages rule of thumb is to get the largest cage you can possible afford and no less than the minimum size. Designer Cages, LLC offers it's customers a great bird cage selection chart. The key to a long lasting cage is due primarily to daily cleaning and a good weekly deep cleaning.
Remember to always invest in the highest quality bird supply cages. A major factor in protecting your pets' health is the quality of the products you buy for them. Many of the bird cages for sale today aren't of the highest quality, and could jeopardize your pets health. Many companies mass produce bird supplies such as cage, but overlook the importance of high quality materials. Bird cages and stands made of low quality materials are prone to break and/or deform. When your bird supplies are weak and prone to break, the risk of your pet getting hurt or eating something it shouldn't increases dramatically, and this could cause serious harm to your beloved pet, sometimes even resulting in death.
Bird cages play a major roll in the life of your bird. Just as important as your home is to you, the bird's home is important to it. A bird will grow up and live its whole life in its bird cage. Your bird will mate and mature with its partner in the bird house. The bird will also breed and raise its young in the bird cage. Bird cages come in all types of shapes, designs, and sizes. It is important to buy a bird house that will offer your pet the maximum comfort and provide the most functionality. Small bird cages are perfect for birds such as finches, love birds, and other such small birds. Many birds prefer a small living quarters. Small decorative bird cages are much easier to take care of and maintain. Their small size allows you to put the bird house virtually anywhere. However, depending on the size of your pet bird you might be forced to buy a big bird cage.

How to Train Kittens to Use the Cat Litter Box

2005-10-22T19:38:00.000-07:00

There are several things you need to do to help the mama cat train her kitties to develop good cat litter box habits. While the kids may try to follow mom's example, here's how you can help cement that success.
First, since kittens are so physically small and they're still developing coordination and agility, it's critical that you, the human mom, make sure they can easily get in and out of any cat litter box. The easiest way to do this is buy disposable aluminum roaster pans from your grocery store. Kittens grow as fast as weeds in the summertime, so this is a temporary, but completely justifiable purchase.
If your regular litter boxes are too tall for the babies to climb in and out, they'll become discouraged and they'll select the easiest spot (for them, at least) to eliminate waste. Once they get this idea in their little heads, it could be hard to get out. So, don't give them the excuse!
The type of litter you use for kittens can be dangerous. Since kittens are so darn curious, they test everything with their mouths. If they eat clumping litter, this could kill them. Use a non-clumping litter for several weeks. It won't be any easier to watch them taste test the non-clumping litter, but neither will it be dangerous.
Depending upon the size of the litter, you'll need at least two, and possibly several roasting pans. Since the babies all pretty much eat at the same time, they'll feel the call of nature in a group as well. You can ensure successful cat litter box habits by making certain there are enough boxes to accomodate a group elimination activity.
Young kitties don't have great control of their bladder and bowel functions. Place all cat litter boxes in close proximity to their living quarters. Keep the pans away from their food and water, but don't place them out of the same room, if possible. The closer the pans are, the better the chances are the babies will make it to the box in time to let loose.
Also, make certain that mom is teaching the babies by the time they are five weeks old. If mom seems to be falling down on the job, you must step in during week five of their lives and start the training process. Shortly after the little ones have fed, take them to the litter pan, and place them in it. You may need to gently take a front paw, and scratch for them. Fortunately, almost all cats "get it" very quickly. Your coaching period should be relatively short.
By working with mama cat, the two of you make sure the babies develop good cat litter box habits for life.

How to Choose Goldfish

2005-10-22T18:07:00.000-07:00

How you choose your goldfish, depends largely on two things: the type of fish you really like to see, and the kind of container you intend to keep them in.
People in warmer climates, like to populate their outdoor ponds and pools with goldfish, which is a wonderful addition to the outdoor décor of your lawns and gardens. These may be natural ponds, or manmade pools that are actually vinyl liners sunk into the ground, and provided with air and water circulation through a pump system. This circulation, natural or otherwise, is important to keeping the water well oxygenated for the fish.
But surprisingly, if your pond is deep enough, it's possible to over-winter your goldfish outside. If you are populating an outdoor pond, it's best to start with fish that were raised that way themselves, as there is less likelihood of losing some that are unable to adapt. Store-bought fish raised in tanks can adapt, but you can expect to lose a certain percentage of them, depending on the harshness of the weather.
If you're just starting out, you might try just the common goldfish at first, since these will be less expensive to replace, should you have a hard winter. If your fish are not surviving, you may need to look at better air and water circulation, or deepening the pond. But once you have a thriving colony, you can begin adding some of the hardier varieties of fancy goldfish.

How To Get Rid Of Fleas

2005-10-22T17:43:00.000-07:00

If you own a pet you will have fleas in the house from time to time. In some cases you may become infested with fleas. We have had as many as four cats at our house and we have been infested with fleas a few times. We only have two cats now so it is not as bad, but we still have to use the process I am about to tell you about.
You really don't have any control if your pet goes out of your yard, but you will need to spray your own yard about two times during the summer months with a good flea insecticide. If you kill all the fleas in your house with out killing the little pest in the yard you will continue to have a problem inside.
One of the main reasons a house will become infested with fleas is, after you vaccum your house and put the vaccum away, every flea that was in the vaccum bag will crawl right back out of the vaccum cleaner and into the house and start multiplying.
The way to stop this is to take the bag out, spray some flea insecticide in the bag and tape the hole of the bag up. Then spray the insecticide around the house. If you will repeat this process every two or three days for two weeks you will not be infested with fleas any more.
You can resume your normal schedule of vaccuming after you clear up the infestation, but you will still need to tape the vaccum bag up just in case you pet brings a couple of fleas in from outside.

What you Need to Know about Cat Food

2005-10-22T16:15:00.000-07:00

Cat Food Info #1 Cats Need Protein in their Cat Food
The cat food you feed to your cat should always be rich in protein. This generally should come from meat, poultry or fish. Many cat food brands advertise chicken, beef, and tuna flavored cat food because they know that cats need protein and cat owners are looking for quality cat food. However, you need to make sure the cat food you buy has a sufficient amount of cat food regardless of what flavor it is.
Cat Food Info #2 Cat Food with Taurine
Also check the cat food you typically buy for an amino acid called taurine. This particular amino acid is very important in the overall health of your cat, and your cat will eat as much food as it has to in order to supplement this particular amino acid. So, if you are buying cheap cat food that does not have the proper nutrients your cat will eat a lot. If you buy a nutrient rich cat food then your cat will eat little and save you more money while still getting proper nutrition.
Cat Food Info #3 Canned Cat Food or Dry Cat Food?
Many people do not know whether they should buy canned or dry cat food, or whether it even matters. Because of this, many people simply buy the cat food that is most affordable or convenient for them. This is actually a mistake. Cats should be fed a mixture of cat food. The dry cat food should be given for free feeding, especially if you are away on vacation or out for the day. Canned cat food should be supplemented at other times as well because it has water in the food and significantly more protein than the carbohydrate rich dry cat food. Not to mention the same food over and over might bore your cat and cause him to stop eating that cat food altogether.
Cat Food Info #4 Avoid Cat Food Fillers
Cats need to eat a cat food that is rich in protein, so make sure the amount of fillers is kept to a minimum. Carbohydrates are not essential for a cat’s existence, so don’t buy cat food that is full of them. Instead, read labels and buy cat food that is not filled with fillers and other byproducts.

Choosing Healthy Foods For Your Dog

2005-10-22T16:12:00.000-07:00

Today’s pet food market is larger and more diverse than ever before. While this offers a large number of choices in various types of pet food, it also presents a dilemma in choosing the healthiest food for your dog. Are generic or store brands suitable for a dog? What about familiar name brands like Purina and Alpo? Are the pricier brands that advertise specially formulated ingredients (Science Diet, Eukanuba) really living up to their claims and worth the extra money? All of these are valid questions that loving dog owners deserve to have answered.
Dog Food Considerations
There are several factors to consider when choosing the right food for your dog. Different dogs have different nutritional needs at different stages in their lives. Some things to consider when selecting the food you’ll give your dog follow.
• The Dog’s Age
Puppies have different nutritional requirements than adult dogs just as human children have different needs than adult people. Senior dogs also have different requirements than younger adult dogs. Make sure that you select a food that is appropriate for your dog’s stage in life.
• The Dog’s Health
Does your dog have a specific medical condition? If so, the food you choose may need to be partially dictated by that condition. Diabetic dogs need low-glucose foods and dogs with specific allergies (yes dogs can be allergic to all sorts of things, just like people) may require certain foods as well. Your veterinarian can help you choose foods that are appropriate for a dog with a specific medical condition.
• The Dog’s Size or Body Type
Some dogs are overweight. Some dogs are underweight. Some have a natural tendency to get lots of exercise while others tend to prefer to lie around a lot. There are, of course, small, medium, and large dogs as well as the ultra-tiny “toy” dogs. All of these different types of dogs will have different requirements for the type of food they need as well as how much of it.
• Your Budget
Dog food can be expensive, there’s no doubt about it. And where dog food is concerned, the rule really is “you get what you pay for.” Low cost generics and store brands will lighten the burden on your wallet, but may not be the healthiest choice for your dog as they are made with cheap ingredients and lots of fillers. You should buy the best dog food you can on your budget to help ensure your dog’s nutrition.

Top Ten Dog Training Mistakes

2005-10-22T15:49:00.000-07:00

If you are in the process of training your dog or considering it, then you might like to check the following list to ensure that you are not making one of the common mistakes.
1) Giving different words for the same command.
If you want your dog to obey your commands, you must be consistent with the words that you use. For example you may issue the command “Sit” most of the time. It is no good expecting your dog to also sit down when you say “Get down off my favourite chair”
2) Rubbing nose in urine
This has no affect on training a dog. All you are doing is burning is nose. Which is probably something that you don’t want to do.
3) Smacking, hitting and punishing the dog.
Experts dog trainers have shown that this type of human behaviour has no positive effect on a dog,
4) Shouting
This will just confuse the dog. Remember, that the whole point of verbal commands is that you have taught the dog to learn from the sound of your voice to link it to an action that he needs to take.
5) Letting the dog eat at the same time as you.
This indicates to the dog that he is your equal. What you need to do is let the dog eat after you. This will teach him that you are the master and in control.
6) Making training session to long.
15 minutes is just about right for a training session. This keeps it fun for young dogs that can have a short attention span.
7) Starting training too late in the dogs life
It’s far easier to train a young puppy. As a dog gets older you will have to put in a lot more obedience training and may have to take the dog to a training school.
8) Puppy crate to big
Puppies don’t like to be a in a big crate. It makes them feel uncomfortable. You can get crates that are adjustable. So that as the dog gets bigger you can adjust the size of the crate to accommodate him.
9) Training the dog when you are in a bad mood.
Don’t train the dog when you are in a bad mood. This means that the tone of your voice will be different and the dog will not be able to link your verbal commands to the action that he should take.
10) Not giving lots of praise.
To enforce your commands, when the dog has taken the right action give him lots of praise.

What Are Bottom Water Tropical Fish?

2005-10-22T15:47:00.000-07:00

Bottom water fish are those that prefer living at the lowest level of the aquarium. It's not that they can't swim into the upper regions, they will when spurred by a fish that pesters them, or just for the sake of a quick dash around the tank. But for the most part, they live on the bottom, which is where most of their food comes from.
Tropical fish that prefer the bottom of the tank, usually eat algae that grows there, as well as leftover food that falls on the substrate or the broad leaves of some plants. In a way, the bottom water fish are the housekeepers of your aquarium, cleaning up scraps and preventing the build up of algae. But this is not always a sufficient diet, and they need to be given food that comes in a form or shape specifically designed to reach, and appeal to the bottom feeder.
This is usually a wafer shape, dense enough that it sinks past the top and middle feeders, to rest on the bottom and soften. The bottom feeders can then browse at their leisure, returning later to clean up the remains. In that respect, they are not like top and middle feeders, where food is given a pinch at a time, and feeding should stop as soon as they lose interest. Those tropical fish that hang around the bottom tend to be "grazers", and not the gulpers that you'll find dashing for the surface when they see you coming.
Some of the better-known bottom water fish are the loach, and catfish. There are also algae eaters, Botia, Corys, Knifefish and the more unusual specimens like Goby and Needle Nose.

Heartworms In Dogs – What They Are & What To Do

2005-10-22T15:28:00.000-07:00

Heartworms (Latin name Dirofilaria immitis) are parasitic worms that are common in both dogs and cats. Like their name suggests, they live in the dog’s heart, normally free-floating in the right ventricle and nearby blood vessels. The worms are transmitted from dog to dog by mosquitoes which pass the worm larvae through their saliva. The presence of heartworms can be very dangerous to the dog’s health. Although the dog will not display signs of infection until it has progressed considerably, heartworms can be life threatening and are sometimes difficult to detect and diagnose.
Signs of Heartworm Infection
When a dog is first infected with heartworms, there are literally no signs and the presence of heartworms can not be detected even with a blood test. Once the worm larva reaches the heart and matures, however, signs that are detectible by X-ray start to develop almost immediately. These include damage to the blood vessels around the heart and lungs. It is rare that a dog will be infected by only one worm and as the mature worms in the heart grow in size and number, the conditions worsen, eventually causing a blockage of blood flow. It is at this point that the dog will start to display physical signs which can include pain, hypertension, difficulty breathing, lethargy or even fainting. In extremely progressed cases the dog can suffer from heart failure and death although by the time the heartworm disease has reached this stage the owner has probably realized that something is going on and sought veterinary care.
Treating Heartworm Infection
Once a dog has been diagnosed as having heartworms, treatment must be started. What this treatment is and how it is administered is dependant on the stage of heartworm infection. Generally, there are four stages of heartworm disease.
• Stage One – Dogs at the lowest risk – heartworms are detected in X-rays but all other tests appear normal.
• Stage Two – Dogs are moderately infected, may have some difficulty breathing and be demonstrating coughing
• Stage Three – Dogs are severely affected & may display weight loss, have difficulty breathing, blood tests likely show kidney and/or liver damage
• Stage Four – Dogs have Vena Cava Syndrome and are in shock, essentially dying – surgery may be undertaken to remove worms, but there is no guarantee that it will save the dog.
When it comes to heartworms in dogs, prevention truly is the best medicine. The best time to begin a preventative treatment is early in puppy-hood, before the dog is seven months old since dogs older than seven months are at a great risk for adverse reactions to the preventative treatments.

Doggie Hygiene

2005-10-22T15:27:00.000-07:00

Washing your dog is important, but not as important as some people think. Healthy dogs actually don’t need to be washed all that often, but humans prefer to bathe them so that they have a more pleasing smell and appearance. Doggie bath time is a good time to spend with the dog, however. Although most of them don’t like to be washed, they will appreciate the contact and attention that they receive from their owners during a bath. It is also a good time to perform some other necessary “dog maintenance” such as cleaning the ears, checking for ticks and fleas, and brushing the teeth. Since many dogs do not like to sit still for any of these activities, it can be a good idea to do them all at once.
Brushing Dogs’ Teeth
Brushing your dogs’ teeth is just good dental hygiene. Most vets recommend that it be done at least twice a week to ensure your dog maintains healthy teeth and gums. If you’ve not been doing this (and, unfortunately, many people don’t) it’s never too late to start. The dog should have its own toothbrush and special toothpaste designed for dogs. Make sure you brush the back teeth in small circles, the same way you would your own, and brush up and down the length of the “pointy” canine teeth. Dog toothpaste is made to have a pleasing taste (for the dog, don’t try it yourself) and this should make the dog willing to let you perform this activity.
Checking for Ticks & Fleas
Ticks are nasty little arachnids (they’re eight-legged creatures like spiders, and therefore are not insects) that will latch onto your dog’s skin and make its blood their meal ticket. They are most common in wooded areas, but your dog should be checked for them regularly because they can carry a number of diseases. The best place to look for these bugs in under the collar or on the dog’s underbelly, buried in the fur. If found they can be removed with tweezers.
Fleas can be found in the same places, under the fur. The presence of fleas can be betrayed by the sight of their droppings on the dog’s coat. They look like flecks of pepper. The fleas themselves look like bits of brown rice. They’re about an eighth of an inch long. They can’t simply be picked off of the dog like ticks can, but finding them will let you know its time to start the dog on a program to control and eliminate the insects.
Cleaning the Ears
Pet supply stores sell special solutions for cleansing a dog’s ears. Dogs can easily get ear mites, small insects which live in the ears and feed of the waxy secretions there. Over time the bodies of these short-lived creatures build up and form a black, dirty substance. Using a cotton swab dipped in a bit of this solution, gently clean the inner ear. It may be difficult to hold the dog still for this procedure, but it doesn’t take long. And the result will be clean ears and the avoidance of potential infection and earaches in the dog.

Doggie Hygiene

2005-10-22T15:25:00.000-07:00

Bird Feeder Basics

2005-10-22T15:21:00.000-07:00

Bird Feeders The fastest way to a bird's heart is definitely through their stomach. Put up a backyard bird feeder and birds will certainly come to feed in your yard. Where you live determines what you'll see because of differences in birds' range and habitat preferences. As words spread about your feeder, the kinds of birds and the size of crowd will increase. Even if you live in the city where it seems pigeons and house sparrows are the only birds on earth, you'll get surprise visitors that find your food or stop in on migration.
Bird Feeder Basics When you shop for bird feeders, you'll find your choices are almost limitless. You may wonder how to decide what to buy. Here are some hints.
Ease of use - The most important factor in choosing a feeder is how easy it is to use - for both the owner and the birds. You want a feeder that's easy to fill and that holds a reasonable amount of seed. If you are just getting started, look for a feeder that displays seed in full view because birds are attracted by the sight of food and by the sight of other birds eating. An open tray is great for starters.
Make sure your bird feeder has plenty of room for birds to eat without protrusions or decorations getting in the way. Birds also like a feeder with a raised ledge or perch that they can grasp while eating.
Size - When birds come to a bird feeder, they want food, and they wait it fast. Choose a main tray feeder that's big enough for at least a dozen birds to eat at once. Supplement that with hopper- and tube-type bird feeders. Domed feeders are great for small birds like chickadees. Feeders inside wire cages give small birds a place to eat and peace without competition from starlings or other larger birds. Once you have one or two large bird feeder you can add as many smaller feeders as you like.
Quality - Make sure your bird feeder is well made. A sturdy, simple, but beautiful feeder costs more than you'd think. Expect to pay $30 - $75 for a feeder that will last for years.
Tray (Platform) Feeders A must have for any backyard is a simple wooden tray feeder. It's big, it's easy to fill, and it accommodates several birds. The other feeders pick up the overflow and they can be stocked with treats. Cardinals, finches, jays, grosbeaks, bluebirds, blackbirds, nuthatches, chickadees, titmice, and buntings all prefer an open tray feeder. The only birds reluctant to us a tray feeder mounted on a post are ground-feeding birds. A very low tray on stumped legs will accommodate these birds, which include native sparrows, quail, towhees, and doves. You can put any kind of seed in a tray except for small Niger, lettuce, and grass seeds, which are prone to blow away or get wasted. Platform feeders are also good places to put out doughnuts, bread crumbs and fruit.
Platform feeders with a roof are often called fly-through feeders. One problem with tray feeders is that plenty of seed gets kicked to the ground. Adding raised edges to a platform feeder transforms it into tray feeder.
Tray feeders can be hung. A popular hanging model, the Droll Yankees X-l Seed saver is protected by a dome to keep seed dry and prevent squirrels from raiding. This feeder works especially well as a mealworm feeder.
Hopper Feeders Hopper-style bird feeders with plastic or glass enclosures that dole out seed as they're needed, are an efficient choice because seed is used as needed and large amounts aren't exposed to wet or snowy weather, or kicked out by scratching birds. Many birds, including chickadees, nuthatches, titmice, cardinals, jays, and woodpeckers, eat eagerly at a hopper feeder. Make sure the tray of a hopper-style bird feeder has enough room for more than two or three birds to gather and eat, and check to see if the feeder will be easy to clean if seed spoils in bad weather. Be especially careful if you mount your hopper feeder permanently in the garden. If the hopper or frame blocks the tray, the feeder may be very hard to clean.
Hopper feeders are not always rectangular. They can be many-sided or tubular, resembling a gazebo, lantern, or silo, and may be called by those names. A popular round hopper design is the Sky Cafe by Arundale, a hanging feeder made entirely of clear polycarbonate. The hopper and feeding platform are protected by a large, steeply sloped hood designed to detour squirrels. The idea of a large dome above a feeder to protect it from squirrels is incorporated in a number of feeder designs, including Droll Yankees' Big Top.
One of the most significant innovations in hopper feeders has been the "squirrel-proof" models created by Heritage Farms, such as The Absolute II. Birds must sit on a rail to reach the seed tray. The rail has a counterweight that can be adjusted so that a squirrel's weight or that of a jay or blackbird will cause the shield to lower in front of the tray.
Wire-Mesh Feeders Perfect for holding shelled peanuts wire-mesh feeders are fun to watch. Blue jays, woodpeckers, and chickadees can cling to the mesh and pick seeds out one at a time. Squirrels can pick seeds too, but one seed at a time can be painfully slow. Wire-mesh feeders work equally well dispensing black oil sunflower seeds and most other larger seeds. Small, round millet grains pour through the openings and are not a good choice for these feeders.
Most commercial wire-mesh feeders are tubular, but some are shaped like hoppers and may be attached to a platform where birds can perch to feed, rather than having to cling to the mesh.
Mesh bags, often called thistle socks, are also available for dispensing Niger seed. Refillable socks made of fabric and disposable ones made of plastic are available. Squirrels or rain can quickly ruin thistle socks, so hang them in a protected place.
Window Feeders Years ago, before the fancy screens and storm windows, many people simply scattered a handful of crumbs or seeds for the birds on their windowsills. You can mount a simple shallow tray feeder on the outside of a window, mounting it like a window box (but higher and closer to the pane). You can use wooden or metal brackets that attach below the sill or on the sill. Perfect for kids and indoor cats - many window feeders attach with suction cups. Typically made of clear plastic, models by Aspects, Duncraft and K-Feeders are among those available.
The most popular window feeders are made by Coveside and the Birding Company. A one-way mirror allows the feeding activity to be observed while keeping the birds from being disturbed. The feeders need to be placed in a sunny spot for the one-way mirror to work. The feeder can be cleaned and food replaced from inside the house.
Tube Feeders Simple tube feeders are a perfect example of form matching function. They're self-contained, so seed stays dry; they hold a good quantity of seed, so they don't need refilling too often; and they can accommodate several birds at one time. Not all tube feeders are created equal though. You should invest a few extra dollars in the more expensive feeders such as Duncraft or Droll Yankees. The tube itself is sturdier, the feeding holes are designed better so there's less spillage or feeds as birds eat, and the heavier metal used on top and bottom makes the feeder much more stable. Being heavier they don't swing as easily in the wind scattering seed on the ground.
Tube feeders are welcomed by goldfinches, purple finches, pine siskins, chickadees, and house finches, who seem to know they can eat in peace there without being disturbed by the bigger birds. The size of the hole (port) determines whether you have a feeder that should be filled with Niger, birdseed mix or sunflower seeds.
There are two styles of tube feeders. One is designed with small feeding ports for the tiny Niger seeds; the other has larger ports for such seeds as black oil sunflower, safflower, or mixed seed.
Not all tube feeders are cylinders. There are tube feeders with three, four, or more sides. It is the idea of feeding ports built into the elongated seed container that makes a feeder a tube feeder.
The Droll Yankees A6 Tube Feeder is still a top seller. Droll Yankee feeders have a lifetime guarantee. Other variations include Perky Pet's Upside-Down Thistle Feeder. Perches are placed above the feeding ports so that seed can be accessed only by finches that can feed upside down, a design that excludes house finches.
Two or three tubes are sometimes ganged together, as the Opus TopFlight Triple Tube Feeder. With a total of 12 ports, it can feed more birds than a single tube, and it also has the option of being filled with a different seed type in each tube.
Most tube feeders are made of transparent plastic, but Vari-Craft makes particularly attractive tube feeders of white PVC. Ports are made of a hard plastic. A squirrel-proof model is available with stainless steel ports.
Most tube feeders can be fitted with round trays underneath that catch spillage from birds like finches, which are notoriously messy eaters. The tray serves double duty as a small platform feeder for such birds as cardinals and doves, which benefit from the slung seed.
Tube feeders are sometimes placed inside a wire-mesh cage for protection from squirrels. Cages also keep large birds like grackles from perching on a tray and reaching up to the feeder ports.
Nectar Feeders Sweet sugar water, or nectar, is a huge draw for hummingbirds. Put up a nectar feeder and you're practically guaranteed to get hummers. The birds search for red and deep orange-red flowers, andanything that color will bring them in for a closer look. Your nectar feeder may also attract other birds with a sweet tooth, including orioles, house finches, and woodpeckers. In the wild these birds would satisfy that craving with real nectar from flowers, or a sip of sugary tree sap or fruit juice. The sugar boost gives them quick calories and the energy needed to live.
As with other bird feeders, look for a nectar feeder that's easy to fill and easy to clean. Make sure you can remove the base to clean out the feeding holes. Bee guards of gridded plastic over the feeder openings are a necessity unless you like to watch constant battles between wasps and hummingbirds.
Suet Feeders Suet feeders are not nearly as complex as some seed feeders. They can be as simple as a mesh sack - the kind often used for onions and potatoes. Toss a chunk of raw suet in an empty mesh sack and hang it on a tree trunk or from a branch or pole.
A popular way of presenting suet is in homemade suet logs. Perches are not necessary and if used will attract grackles and starlings. Woodpeckers and small clinging birds can get a grip on the rough wood. Stuffed with suet, these logs have woodpeckers as regular visitors. Standing dead trees can be drilled and filled like giant suet logs. If meant to attract woodpeckers, a suet feeder is likely to be found most quickly if it is attached initially to a tree trunk. Once the woodpeckers have found it, the feeder can be moved to other spots and the birds will follow.
Suet cages are sometimes combined with bird feeders. Health Manufacturing makes a beautiful redwood hopper feeder with suet cages at either end, the Classic Suet 'n Seed Feeder. Woodlink makes a similar model with a copper roof.

Intestinal Parasites In Dogs

2005-10-22T15:12:00.000-07:00

Dogs (and cats) often fall victim to several common intestinal parasites known as worms. There are a large number of different types of intestinal worms, but dogs are most commonly affected by tapeworms, roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms. These parasites live in the digestive tract (most commonly in the intestines) where they feed on nutrients, robbing the dog of the nutrition it takes in. Worm infestations can cause a variety of undesirable symptoms including vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, and a generally poor appearance.

How do Dogs Get Worms?
There are a number of ways that a dog can wind up with an infestation of any of these types of intestinal parasites. An animal infested with any of these types of worms may pass the worms’ eggs in its feces. This is a strong argument for picking up after your pet as often as possible and not allowing your dog to eat feces (something dogs will do) whenever you can. Tapeworm eggs can be spread by fleas. Fleas eat the eggs (quite a delicacy to a flea) and then pass them to a dog when biting it. Some roundworms will lie dormant in the body of a pregnant dog and activate just before it gives birth. The activated worms make their way into the intestines of the unborn puppies where they will thrive after the pups are born.
Detecting Worms in Dogs
Worm infestations can be difficult to detect. While some worms may be passed in the feces, betraying their presence, it is uncommon. If a dog is displaying symptoms that may indicate the presence of worms, a vet should be consulted. A stool sample will be examined for the presence of worm eggs (these are microscopic) and a medication called a “wormer” will be prescribed. Stool samples are often collected as part of a routine dog physical examination in order to check for the presence of worms. In the case of tapeworms, discarded tapeworm segments may be visible in the dog’s feces or attached to the fur around the anus or under the tail. To the naked eye these may look like small bits of white rice.
Treating Dogs for Worms
When a dog is found to have an infestation of worms, it should be prescribed a wormer immediately by a vet. Depending on the severity of the infestation, the type of worms, and the likelihood of re-infestation, the treatment may need to be repeated one or several times. There are over-the-counter wormers available, but most vets do not recommend them because they are necessarily weaker and may not kill all types of worms and their eggs.
Intestinal worms can cause numerous health problems for dogs, up to and including death in extreme cases. Taking measures to prevent infestation, detect it as quickly as possible, and treat it accordingly can help keep your dog safe from these harmful parasites.

Leptospirosis In Dogs

2005-10-22T15:11:00.000-07:00

Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection that can affect a dog’s blood, liver, and kidneys. The bacteria that cause the illness are carried primarily by rats and other rodents, but dogs that are infected with the disease can infect other dogs as well. Ingestion of the urine of an infected animal is the most common means of transmission, but the bacteria can be contracted through damaged or thin skin as well.
Leptospirosis is an odd disease that can often show no signs or symptoms at all. In these cases the bacteria are eventually defeated by the dog’s natural defenses. Other times, and more often, however, the disease can be life threatening to the infected dog. The three main forms of the disease are hemorrhagic (infection in the blood, causing bleeding), renal (infecting the kidneys), and icteric (infecting the liver).
Hemorrhagic Leptospirosis tends to start with a high fever, loss of appetite, and general lethargy. Small hemorrhages start to occur in the mouth and eyes and the dog may develop extreme bloody vomiting and diarrhea. This form of the disease is often fatal.
Icteric Leptospirosis will often start the same way as the hemorrhagic form; with fever, lethargy, and loss of appetite. The mouth and whites of the eyes will take on a yellow appearance, similar to victims of jaundice. In some cases the dog’s skin may also appear yellow and jaundiced.
Renal Leptospirosis also starts with fever, appetite loss, and lethargic depression, but eventually leads to kidney failure.
All three forms of the disease are treatable and curable and all three forms can be potentially fatal. Often dogs that survive renal Leptospirosis will have chronic kidney disease for the rest of their lives.
Treatment is accomplished with the use of antibiotics and, if the disease is caught early enough, is generally successful. Cases of Leptospirosis in North America are fairly rare, thanks to the development of a vaccine. Puppies are inoculated for the disease as early as six weeks of age and receive annual renewal shots to maintain their immunity.
Vaccination and clean, hygienic conditions are the best way to avoid Leptospirosis in dogs. If the animal is not able to come into contact with disease carrying rats and their urine, the dog is unlikely to become infected, even if unvaccinated. The leptospirosis vaccine is the most likely of all dog vaccinations to cause an adverse reaction in the dog. This reaction is generally mild and most often includes lethargy, loss of appetite, and depression. These effects last only a few days and afterward the dog is fine and, more importantly, protected from the disease.
Leptospirosis is one of the nastier diseases a dog can get and no one wants to see his or her pet suffer with this illness. Fortunately, thanks to the existence of a good vaccine, few dogs have to endure this life threatening illness in today’s day and age.

Kennel Cough In Dogs

2005-10-22T15:08:00.001-07:00

The condition commonly known as “Kennel Cough” is one of the most prevalent infectious diseases that dogs can contract. The disease is not serious in most cases, however, and often resolves itself after one to two weeks. The accepted medical term for kennel cough is tracheobronchitis, indicating a form of bronchitis that affects the dog’s trachea.
Kennel cough can be caused by several airborne bacteria and viruses. It is generally accepted that most cases of kennel cough are caused by the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica but it has also been associated with the canine distemper virus (CDV) and canine parainfluenza. It is the general consensus of the veterinary medical community that in order to cause the illness, an animal must be virtually bombarded by multiple versions of these pathogens at one time. For this reason it is dogs that spend a lot of time around other dogs that are most at risk for the disease. Dogs that participate in dog shows or spend a lot of time in kennels are the highest risks for kennel cough.
The primary symptom of kennel cough is a dry, spasmodic cough which is caused by the inflammation of the dog’s trachea and bronchi. Coughing spells will often result in the dog coughing up a white and foamy discharge. Some dogs will also develop conjunctivitis – an inflammation of the membrane that lines the eyelids. Nasal discharge may also be present. In effect, the dog appears to have a very nasty cold or flu. As stated above, the disease is rarely serious and almost never life-threatening. Still, if you have seen any of these symptoms or have reason to believe that your dog has or has been exposed to kennel cough, you should consult your vet immediately.
Your vet will be able to diagnose kennel cough with a physical examination and medical history. The cough associated with the ailment is very characteristic and a simple massage of the dog’s throat can usually cause it to cough on cue. In some cases, such as if the dog is depressed or feverish or expelling a yellow or green discharge, the doctor may require additional diagnostic tests such as a complete blood count (CBC) and laboratory testing of microorganisms in the dog’s airway. These tests will help the doctor rule out other infectious diseases such as influenza, pneumonia, or canine distemper.
Immunization can help prevent kennel cough and is recommended. When kenneling your dog or traveling it may be required before your dog will be admitted. Effective immunization can be difficult, however, because the disease can be caused by so many different pathogens. Active prevention on your part can be accomplished by not allowing your dog’s toys or water and food bowls to be accessed by unfamiliar dogs. If participating in dog shows make sure that the area is well ventilated to assist with the expulsion of airborne pathogens.
Kennel cough is treated with antibiotics in most cases. Antibiotics will help prevent any secondary illnesses from developing while the dog gets over its case of kennel cough.

2005-10-22T15:08:00.000-07:00

Kennel Cough In Dogs

2005-10-22T15:07:00.000-07:00

Feeding Time Should Be Training Time

2005-10-22T14:59:00.000-07:00

Feeding Time Should Be Training Time
Using Food Daily to Promote Good Obedience
Can you guess why feeding time is so important? Simply put, feeding time means your dog is HUNGRY and will therefore do almost anything to get fed. Since you, his loving owner, have the power to either feed or starve your pet, your dog looks to you as its only supplier of food. This means you play a vital role in your dog's life. Now, learn how to use this to your advantage.
Your Advantage
Since you possess this role, it is time to use it to your benefit. No longer look at feeding time without the element of dog training involved. This means that whenever your dog is to be fed, he is also expected to do something for the food. Never feed your dog without some sort of request from him. In this case, we want our dogs to do something pleasant such as not jumping or barking, but rather sitting down patiently and waiting for us. This is especially important when dealing with energetic dog breeds.
TIP: Consistent Feeding
Feeding times should be scheduled at the same time daily for sake of consistency. Nothing is worse than a confused dog wondering when it will get his next meal. Feeding time can be in the morning before work, and in the evening after work. The same person should feed the dog as much as possible to reinforce that person as the Leader -- the one your dog obeys and listens to above all others. This is especially important for growing puppies, as they must know who is the leader from an early age.
Feeding Time
When it is time to feed your dog, use a command word like "Food?" each time to remind him what to expect. As you begin to fill the bowl and bring out the food, notice the dog's behaviour. Is he jumping on you? Barking? Give him a stern NO and wait. If your dog persists, ignore him until he stops. Your dog will quickly realize that barking and jumping only prolong feeding time.
Before you lay his bowl down, tell him to sit. Do not feed him until he is sitting and quiet.
Be Persistent!
Don't be discouraged if your dog isn't an angel immediately. As long as you continue to encorce good habits, he will eventually learn. Soon your dog should be waiting patiently every time is it to be fed because he will understand that the quickest way to get fed is to obey!
It Doesn't Stop At Feeding Time
Use other opportunities other than feeding time to encourage good habits. Before you bring him for a walk (You remembered to give him the keyword "Walk?", didn't you?) make sure he is also sitting patiently for you -- otherwise don't leave. Dogs are intelligent pets and they learn from experience. If sitting and waiting patiently mean a bowl of food, then your dog will be more than happy to comply. Just don't forget to give him praise from time to time to further encourage dog bonding and good behaviour.

Five Puppy Training Tips

2005-10-22T14:39:00.000-07:00

Here are five easy to use training tips for your new puppy.

1.) Chewing Problems - The most effective solution to a puppy chewing on something he shouldn't is to not discipline him, but to simply replace the object that he is chewing with a chew toy and then to raise him greatly for chewing on his chew toy. Positive encouragement is what a puppy will respond to the most.

2.) House Training - The easiest way to house train your puppy is to always take him out immediately after his meal. Wait for him to go. Once he goes, praise him greatly. He'll soon get the idea that going outside is the correct thing to do.

3.) Playtime - When you are thinking about getting a puppy, make sure you have the appropriate time to give to your dog. Estimated necessary time is about 10-30 minutes for eating (3 times a day), 10-30 minutes for a walk (3 times a day) and about an hour of playtime with your dog. Most people don't realize the amount of time that a healthy puppy will require.

4.) Dog Crates - Dog Crates can have a positive impact on both the dog and the owner. It'll give the dog a safe and secure area that is very close the "den" like atmosphere that dogs had in the wild. Once a dog is comfortable with a crate, it'll allow the owner to safely transport the dog and help to house train a puppy (they won't want to do business in their den).

5.) Hide The Chocolate - When getting ready for halloween, make sure you keep the candy out of reach of the dog, especially chocolate. Chocolate is very dangerous to a dog. It can make the dog very very sick. If you suspect that your dog has eaten chocolate, you should your veterinarian IMMEDIATELY.

Allergic To Your Dog Or Cat?

2005-10-22T09:36:00.000-07:00

Pets definitely help us live longer and healthier lives. This is especially true of the elderly and those of us who live alone. Pets make wonderful and faithful companions. They are always there for us. However, this relationship can become strained, and sometimes even be broken when someone in the household develops an allergy to a beloved pet.
Studies show that approximately 15% of the population suffers from an allergy to a dog or cat, and about one third of those with an allergy to cats choose to live in a household with a cat despite the allergy. Some allergy suffers live happily with a pet for a year or two before an allergy starts.
There are sometimes long term health ramifications of repeated allergy flair up's, especially for children. Repeated flair-up's can cause permanent lung damage in children. This should be carefully and thoroughly discussed with your physician. One of the ways to live happily with an animal you are allergic to is to decrease your exposure to the animal. Keep the animal outside if possible.
If the allergy sufferer only has a mild reaction to the animal there are ways for the two of them to live together in harmony, but it takes work. The animal should not be allowed in the allergy sufferers bedroom or on the bed. Keep the animal off of any upholstered furniture in the house as dander can be transferred to upholstered furniture. Use a room purifier to remove airborne animal dander. Remove carpets from the home if possible and replace with wood floors. Wash area rugs on a regular basis with warm water. Use a vacuum with a HEPA filter in order to trap dander. The allergy sufferer should wash his or her face and hands after handling the animal. The animal can be bathed weekly in specially formulated shampoo that removes dander.
In some cases where the above methods and the use of over the counter antihistamines and decongestants do not help, the allergy sufferer may need to seek the help of an allergist. Immunotherapy can be thought of like a vaccination against your allergies. Given on a regular basis as shots, immunotherapy helps your body build up a natural tolerance to specific allergens.
With the use of the above methods you'll be able to live a long and healthy life with your pet!

Pet Therapy Given Major Boost

2005-10-22T09:24:00.000-07:00

Americans spent over $32 billion on their pets last year – and $25 billion on their children. This may come as a bit of a shock, however, we are becoming more and more aware of the emotional and physical rewards of owning a pet – or especially a dog.
The converted will willingly tell you that owning a dog auto-matically gives you a constant companion, friend, confidante, exerciser and instinctive soul re-generator. Yet it is only in the last decade or so that we have taken pets seriously medically, much to our own detriment.
Nowadays though, pet therapy can be a very important feature of cancer recovery programs, prosthetic limb replacement recovery, treatment for depression, speech inducement for severely delayed children and of course, just sheer pleasure for the elderly in hospices and aged care facilities.

However, when you consider how many patients/clients and carers could benefit from the pure love and support of a pet, the supply can never keep up with demand – that is, not until now.
www.woofywarehouse.com is a new pet goods supplier that has come up with what they think will be the answer to the dilemma. Owner of www.woofywarehouse.com Adele Sims saw firsthand the effects of having a pet around – or not. “I was driving the children to school one morning and we saw a man walking along who was afflicted with muscular dystrophy. His walk was staggered and his bad arm swung like a broken wing as he headed for home. We have often passed him on his walks and had become quite accustomed to him as he walked up the middle of the road.
“This particular morning we noticed that a woman with a soft and beautiful golden retriever was coming up to him in the opposite direction. As the dog came closer and started wagging its tail the man became so excited that he just had to pat the dog. A huge smile beamed across his face as he touched the soft head of the dog who happily lapped up the attention. But the owner of the dog became a little alarmed at this stranger and started pulling the dog away so they could continue on their walk. She pulled the dog away and walked on, but the man stopped and watched the dog go. His face dropped, his head bowed and he just stood there for quite a while and watched as the dog disappeared around the corner. It was a very sad and moving experience for both myself and the boys as they saw the scenario unfold. From that time on I vowed I would do as much as I could to bring people and animals together. And having our own dog supplies warehouse we were in a unique position to be able to help,” she said.
For every purchase over $20 from its range, www.woofywarehouse.com will donate a percentage of profits to the Delta Society whose main aim is to incorporate the benefits of pet therapy into varied programs which target the physical, mental, educational and motivational areas of people’s lives.
With animal involve-ment in therapy, Delta Society has found that both fine and gross motor skills can be improved, as can wheelchair skills. It can also dispel loneliness and reduce anxiety, develop leisure skills and promote short or long-term memory.
The benefits are too numerous to count and now there is a way you can support this essential cause whilst providing your own dog with all the supplies that this little hero deserves.
“We have had our own special Joycie – a Belgian sheep dog – for over nine years now and we couldn’t imagine our family without her. We jokingly call her our third child and the boys talk about her as their hairy little sister. And when our older son was little he had some speech problems of his own that no amount of intervention or lessons or whatever, seemed to bring right. It wasn’t until he chose and named Joycie and started trying to train her that he started to get his words right. It was only then that he was able to give clear directions and for the first time in his life he was able to yell out commands. This sounds ridiculous I suppose, but he had never been able to do that before – his words would always fade away. Joycie made a huge impact on his life and they are inseparable friends. We often find our son talking to her as if she were a best buddy and Joycie smiles and listens and nuzzles him as if she understands every word. She comes everywhere with us and is a much loved family member. If we can help bring some of this joy to others then we would consider ourselves to be very blessed.” Adele went on to say.

Frequently Asked Dog Training Questions:

2005-10-22T09:22:00.000-07:00

1. Why do dogs eat their poop?

One reason dogs eat their poop is because it just plain taste good. Another reason is it could be a vitamin deficiency. One other reason for the poop eating is that it is an instinctual behavior in the wild to eat the poop to keep other predators from tracking their movements. Some solutions for stopping poop eating are: You can put meat tenderizer on their food and it is supposed to make the poop taste bad once it goes through the body. Check to make sure your dog food is nutritous enough and they are getting everything they need in their diet. The best and most effective way is to clean up after your dog immediately.

2. How do I get my dogs to stop barking?

Dogs bark as a form of communication. Dogs will also bark out of boredom. Dogs that are not with their pack [you are their pack] will bark to get the packs attention to let them know they are lonely. Dogs will bark to alert that there is a person walking by or another dog in their territory it is a natural form of communication. If you remove the stimulant then there is no need to bark at it. The best way to stop nuisance barking is to exercise/socialize your dog. If the dog is with their pack then they is no need to get the packs attention. Dogs also bark when they are excited it is their natural way of communication.

3. How do I get my dog to stop chewing up the furniture?

If you have a puppy it is probably teething and in some pain. The chewing is satiating to them and can possibly be soothing their gums. You can give them a cold carrot to chew on, make sure you give it to them outside it can get quite messy. You can also freeze chicken broth in ice cube trays for them to have to help relieve some of the discomfort. You can also use Bitter Apple spray to detour them from chewing. Mature dogs usually chew out of boredom and stress. Exercise is the best way to release the stress. You can turn there attention on to something else that is more exciting then your dinning room table leg.

4. How do I get my dog to stop nipping and play-biting?

One way is to yelp very loud and startle the puppy. If the puppy was playing with another puppy and it bite to hard then the puppy would yelp to let them know it hurt. If the play stops as a result of biting too hard then the puppy will learn from being shunned away that biting stops the play time. Another solution for play biting is to have a toy and redirect the attention on to something else. You can also change the dogs environment take them outside for a walk is very helpful.

5. How do I stop my dog from potting in the house?

Once a dog start using the bathroom in the house the only method that works is PREVENTION. Every time your dog uses the bathroom in the house it takes 10 consecutively times using the bathroom outside that teaches it outside is where to go potty. So if you get to 9 times outside and then they have a mistake inside you have to start all over again. You must look at your dog/puppy as a 9 month old crawling baby with out a diaper on. Surely you would not let a 9 month old baby loose in your house with out a diaper on.

Choosing a Bed for Your Dog

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Does your dog enjoy sleeping with you at night? Although cuddling with a pet can keep owner and dog warm and snuggly, keep in mind that most animals are not as clean as people, nor do they always follow the same sleep patterns. A dog can track mud, grass, and even nature's business between your sheets, not to mention fleas and ticks. He might want to go for a walk at 3 a.m. when all you want to do is sleep. These are some of the common reasons why pets deserve a bed of their own. The nesting routine is as old as time, so providing your dog with his own place to sleep can create a sense of security that will help to keep your pet calm and well adjusted, not to mention help you get a good night's sleep.
But how do you know which type of bed will best suit your canine's needs? Consider the following criteria before shopping for your dog's bedroom furniture.
1. Get the right size bed for your animal. How big will he get? If you have a large breed, get a bed with enough size to accommodate his full-grown stature. Ask the vet how tall and heavy your pet is expected to get, especially if he is a mixed breed. Then you can estimate the size of bed that will be needed. One that is too small will make your dog feel cramped, and he'll probably find another sleeping spot. On the other hand, an overly large bed could let your little Chihuahua feel insecure and unprotected, likewise leading to his hunt for a new location.
2. Train a new puppy where to sleep. Like children, pets need guidance about where to go or what to do. Keep your pet's bed in the same place to establish a routine. This might be in the laundry room, family room, the deck, or a doghouse. Don't let a puppy drag its bed all over the place or he will never learn where he's supposed to stay at night. Get in the habit of putting your dog to bed at the same time each night, and he will soon get used to it.
3. Choose durable materials. A foam mattress can provide solid support for the larger frames of full-grown pets, whereas small piece-type filling will lend more flexibility to a bed, and is better suited to small dogs or puppies. Check to be sure the cover is removable and washable, and launder it every week or two, using hot water and mild detergent to kill fleas and ticks. Teach your puppy not to chew his bedding, which will quickly destroy it and force you to buy another. A smart rap on the nose with a newspaper or a squirt of water from a spray bottle when he is caught in the act ought to do it.
4. Keep the bed out of the way to prevent accidents. Let all family members know where the bed will be kept, and tuck it into a nook or cranny where no one is likely to trip over it when carrying laundry or hurrying past that area. Your dog will be able to sleep better in a quiet, semi-protected environment.
Although buying your dog a bed should not be as time-consuming or costly as buying human furniture, it nevertheless pays to plan ahead and take time in making the best possible choice for all concerned.

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